Pro bars on homeowner saw

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I envy you Efisher26 says you have a echo 290evl or evil lol Id love to get an evl or solo that craftsman 3.7/roper saw is nice
 
That's a low pro, and as far as a I can tell u can't switch tips to make a reg 3/8


-Efisher26-
 
Gotcha


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
 
Gotcha


Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
They are neat but a saw must have a brake and A/V for me to consider it. I can cut most all of my firewood with small saws, and I enjoy making small and/or inexpensive saws work well. You'd be surprised what the saw in the picture can do - and the case is 21 years old.
 
Why are these the only bars baileys has for a Poulan 3700? They have woodland pro bars with same numbers are mounts different?
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Just a home owner that likes the older better made machines

Craftsman 3.7
Echo 290evl
 
The reason I wanted a pro bar is I actually use the wild thing for firewood and limbs/saplings saves wear and tear on my pro saws plus lighter
but the bars and chain that come with theses saws are made of poor material I was constantly having the nose wear out or spreading/bearing failure even though i kept fresh grease in them
The chains never stayed sharp for long so I figured new chains and new bar I gutted my stock muffler making it run much better I'm going to port it a bit sometime
The gb bars are a little better than the single rivet but I'll see once I get chains to fit them.
 
After mounting the gb bar it seams a bit longer than the stock bar It ran well with the vxl chains I got from fordf150 be sure to grease the tip before use as the ones I got had no grease in them at all it does make the saw slightly heavier
 
The clue to finding suitable bars is finding out which bar mount patterns the saws take. The Oregon selector guide usually will tell that, once you enter brand and model number of the saws (provided Oregon has one or more bar that fits the saw).

Then it is much easier to find other bars that might fit.

Be aware that it varies a lot what different people and brands regard as "pro" bars. If you want useful help you need to define what you mean by it.
 
I wouldn’t consider a gb bar as pro but better than the oem bar that came with the saw IMO pro bars are hard like the oregon power match made of heavy hard steel box stores don't really sell pro bars but el-cheapo steel laminated or whatever there made from but shelling out money for a new bar isn’t my cup of tea I like to "recondition them a few times before there "done"
When I do maintenance I'll file the rails a bit grease the tip fix any issues to promote even wear on the bar.
 
I wouldn’t consider a gb bar as pro but better than the oem bar that came with the saw IMO pro bars are hard like the oregon power match made of heavy hard steel box stores don't really sell pro bars but el-cheapo steel laminated or whatever there made from but shelling out money for a new bar isn’t my cup of tea I like to "recondition them a few times before there "done"
When I do maintenance I'll file the rails a bit grease the tip fix any issues to promote even wear on the bar.
Of late Blount products even the so called " Pro" kit seems to have suffered a bit in terms of quality I would choose a ( Non laminated bar) if I wanted to lengthen the use period but then you are getting into the higher $ bracket, again it depends on you & your usage. You state you like to bring up to scratch your bars but don't mention bar reversal which I assume you also do. Blount have recently in my part of the world started to push " Windsor " bars, chains, tips etc.after they disappeared from the dealers shelves, & I find they are a " Better bang for your buck" than the "Oregon" but the "Windsor" bars we get come with Fabricated in Belgium on the packet, may not be so for the US.
 
Of late Blount products even the so called " Pro" kit seems to have suffered a bit in terms of quality I would choose a ( Non laminated bar) if I wanted to lengthen the use period but then you are getting into the higher $ bracket, again it depends on you & your usage. You state you like to bring up to scratch your bars but don't mention bar reversal which I assume you also do. Blount have recently in my part of the world started to push " Windsor " bars, chains, tips etc.after they disappeared from the dealers shelves, & I find they are a " Better bang for your buck" than the "Oregon" but the "Windsor" bars we get come with Fabricated in Belgium on the packet, may not be so for the US.

Sounds like those "Windsors" really are KOX then, and not Oregon?
 

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