Proline carbs, any experience?

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Might be replacing the carb on my 034. Any experience with Proline carbs, or should I just go with OEM?
No clue on proline aftermarket carb.

I went through 2 oem used and rebuilds on a 034. Tilley the one came on it and then a Zama.
I finally gave up and tried a aftermarket carb I ordered online. Cant recall where but no name deal so not having to pay more money like proline.

Anyhow it was perfect and never another issue since. Been a couple years now.
 

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50:50 success rate for aftermarket carbs in my shop. The one for a 200T worked flawless (L and H screws don't turn as smooth as on the OEM carb, but that's it), the one for a 024 was junk right away. Couldn't adjust it properly no matter what.
 
50:50 success rate for aftermarket carbs in my shop. The one for a 200T worked flawless (L and H screws don't turn as smooth as on the OEM carb, but that's it), the one for a 024 was junk right away. Couldn't adjust it properly no matter what.

Was this with aftermarket carbs in general, or Proline in particular?

I'm at a 0% success rate for the cheap aftermarket carbs, and the one aftermarket carb kit I tried. Never again. The whole carbs worked, but took so much modification and changing of linkages that it wasn't worth the hassle at all. The carb kit was a complete dud.

Proline is supposed to be somewhat better, but at $60 for the Proline carb and $90 for a new OEM carb, unless there are plenty of people saying they've had good luck with Proline, it's only a small jump to get to OEM.
 
Was this with aftermarket carbs in general, or Proline in particular?

I'm at a 0% success rate for the cheap aftermarket carbs, and the one aftermarket carb kit I tried. Never again.

Proline is supposed to be somewhat better, but at $60 for the Proline carb and $90 for a new OEM carb, unless there are plenty of people saying they've had good luck with Proline, it's only a small jump to get to OEM.
Aftermarket in general.
I would spent the extra 30 bucks for peace of mind.
 
Ya I would just go oem over that price for a afm carb. Defeats the purpose of a cheaper afm IMHO. Unless oem was NLA.

See if I can find what I paid. Bet could bought 3 afm for price of that proline afm. :oops:

Found it was under 20 shipped. Was zama clone carb. Just had to swap top cap for older style like carb I had.
 
Might be replacing the carb on my 034. Any experience with Proline carbs, or should I just go with OEM?
I had an 034S with a Zama carb C3-4S? Zama is known for main nozzle check valve issues. Since that carb was NLA I found and replaced the main nozzle. No more problems.
 
I had an 034S with a Zama carb C3-4S? Zama is known for main nozzle check valve issues. Since that carb was NLA I found and replaced the main nozzle. No more problems.

That's exactly my issue. Have a nozzle check valve on order, just getting my ducks in a row in case that doesn't work out for whatever reason and I have to replace the whole carb.
 
That's exactly my issue. Have a nozzle check valve on order, just getting my ducks in a row in case that doesn't work out for whatever reason and I have to replace the whole carb.
80% of the carbs that go down probably just need a main nozzle and/or a diaphragm. Had very few cheap carbs with issues. Most had a stiff diaphragm or metal in the carb from manufacturing. Always plan to clean a new AM carb. Only one of dozens was junk.
 
That's exactly my issue. Have a nozzle check valve on order, just getting my ducks in a row in case that doesn't work out for whatever reason and I have to replace the whole carb.
According to Luis at Walbro (now retired) it is best to pull these from the metering side rather than push them all the way through which may cause a leak. I drilled and tapped the old one and made a puller out of a sleeve and a screw with a nut.

Just be sure to remove the "H" needle before messing with the nozzle. I also sealed the new nozzle and welch plug with water thin super glue. Just leave it in a humid location for it to cure a few days before reassembly. Super glue cure time is proportional to film thickness.
 
According to Luis at Walbro (now retired) it is best to pull these from the metering side rather than push them all the way through which may cause a leak. I drilled and tapped the old one and made a puller out of a sleeve and a screw with a nut.

Just be sure to remove the "H" needle before messing with the nozzle. I also sealed the new nozzle and welch plug with water thin super glue. Just leave it in a humid location for it to cure a few days before reassembly. Super glue cure time is proportional to film thickness.
Thanks for the tips!
 
Thanks for the tips!
BTW, you should also muffler mod that saw if you haven't already. The Pre-EPA outlet under the gills measured 0.642" x 0.865".

OOPS! Wrong thread... This is for an 025/MS250 1123 series.

The 034 might not need a muffler mod depending on vintage. The original design predates EPA restrictions. The old 80% of exhaust port area rule of thumb should apply.
 
Muffler mod is way down the list for this saw. Bought originally to run a chainsaw winch, didn't need any more power there, and the extra noise definitely wouldn't have been welcome. It's going to be my truck saw, and need to get it running correctly and responding to tune before I worry about any more power. It'll need to keep a USFS compliant spark arrestor.
 
Muffler mod is way down the list for this saw. Bought originally to run a chainsaw winch, didn't need any more power there, and the extra noise definitely wouldn't have been welcome. It's going to be my truck saw, and need to get it running correctly and responding to tune before I worry about any more power. It'll need to keep a USFS compliant spark arrestor.
If it where me I would open up the stock outlet a bit and keep the spark screen. It won't be too noisy like that and it will make a bit more power and run cooler.
I am with you on the noise thing. I had a WCS cover on my 400C and I am over it. It makes more power, but it is obnoxiously loud.
As for AM carbs. I avoid them like the plague. However I recently purchased a proline for my Toro Snowcommander. The factory carb is a piece of crap made out of plastic and the proline is traditional metal. Hopefully it works out.
 
Alrighty, think I have this figured out. Here's the circuitous route, in case anyone else has to go down this path and searches the forum.

I need Stihl nozzle / check valve 1125 121 5408. My local Stihl dealer had it on order for a couple weeks, no dice. I ordered when my usual guy was out, we saw that Stihl had no stock and rolled the dice, seeing what would happen with an order. When I checked in a couple weeks later, my usual guy was there, and he is not the type to sugar coat anything. He said not a chance. It's a 30+ year old saw, there's no stock, no expected resupply date, and in a world where 99% of people will buy an entire new Chinesium carb on Amazon for $20 and not give this kind of a repair any thought at all, Stihl will not be bothering with anything like this. Dead end here. Wish he'd been there a couple weeks ago, would have saved me a couple weeks of waiting.

Checked online, no luck. Couple completed eBay listings and one place in the UK that might have had stock available to them. I buy from the UK for work frequently, and the options are either 1. expensive shipping or 2. very slow shipping, weeks to months, for something they MIGHT have. Kept this in mind, but only as a backup, in case other things didn't pan out. 1125 121 5408 superceded the old PN 1125 121 5405, so I checked the old PN as well with no luck either. There's also a high altitude version of this part, slightly smaller nozzle, PN 1125 121 5409. No luck there either.

Stihl didn't make the carb, they bought it from Zama, so what's Zama say about it? Zama equivalent to Stihl 1125 121 5408 is A007053. Still not exactly a common part, most places online showing "available for back order" or "usually ships in 7-10 days", which means they don't have stock. I did eventually find it at "the OEM parts store", showing 14pcs stock. No experience with those guys, using my CC for fraud protection, and pulled the trigger. Bought an extra too.

Fingers crossed, we'll see what happens. Hopefully I didn't just burn $20 on parts that won't work, instead of just spending $60 on a Proline carb and moving onward. That probably would have been the smart thing to do.

Edit: Also after typing all this out and re-reading it, It sounds like it took longer than it did. This whole process once I sat down and started it was about 15 minutes, after I got home from the Stihl dealer. Took as much time to type this post as it did to do all that up there.
 
The OEM carb from Stihl is the best and safest bet, but expect it to be expensive. On the other hand, I know a few people who have good luck with aftermarket replacement carbs for their Stihl saws, witht eh Proline brand specifically..

From what I know, they seem to be decent quality, made to spec, and much more affordable than the Stihl factory part. But don't expect to get the exact fit, finish, and durability of an original carb.
 
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