Propegating trees.

[erob914]

I have a number of small plum and maple trees growing on their own in my yard. I would like to transplant them in the fall to other areas of my yard.
It is my understanding the plum trees sprout up from the roots of the parent tree. Do I need to cut this parent root so the sapling will develop its own roots or just transplant it with the larger root from the parent tree.
Is there anything I can do now to help them out for transplanting in the fall? Right now they are about 3 feet tall and growing in a sunny but somewhat shaded area.
The maples are growing in a small stand of pines. They get direct sunlight in the early morning and then filtered light through the pines the rest of the day. Is there anything I can do to encourage these young trees to put on healthy growth before transplanting.

 

[BigJim]

The maples will transplant easily in the winter time after they have lost their leaves.Plum trees are grafted,if there are sprouts around the base of the tree its probably the rootsock which will more than likely not make a desirable fruiting type.I suggest buying a plum tree from a nursery,bearing in mind you need compatable varieties to cross pollinate for fruiting.The nursery will advise you on the correct varieties that will cross pollinate each other.....

 

[monkeypuzzle]

Are plant people AIR LAYERING anymore? My dad taught me how when I was about nine or ten. Great results with plum too.

 

[erob914]

I am not really interested in the fruit production. I already have 3 of the trees that produce plums now. I want to plant them under some power lines on my property. The mature trees I do have are about 15 feet tall which would be good near the power lines. There about 12 to 15 of these saplings about 3 feet tall where I have let them grow.
I have noticed that they originate from the parent root and have some of their own roots. The saplings roots dont appear to be mature enough to be severed from the parent and be transplanted at the same time.
I have severed the parent root with a shovel and plan to transplant them in the fall. Hopefully they will develop enough roots of their own to survive. What I need to know is how can I help them grow strong enough to tolerate a transplant. Can i water in a rooting hormone? Can I fertilize them to promote their health? Or would that produce too much new growth to sustain during a transplant?
Thanks for the help. Eric.

 

[BigJim]

Eric theres really nothing you can give them to prepare for transplanting.New roots will develop when they are severed from the parent plant,they are presently feeding from the parent plant,once you cut them they will have to fend for themselves and will produce new roots.Rooting hormone wont do any thing as they have already produced roots,in fact it can burn them off,If you add fertiliser the parent plant will suck it up.If your feeling brave cut one of the saplings off now and plant it in a pot,keep well watered and see how it survives,thats called a root cutting,a way some plants are propogated.Hope that helps,Cheers......

 

[erob914]

I figured the saplings would develop their own roots faster after cutting it from the parent root. Hopefully by fall they will be strong enough to transplant.
It sounds like your advice is basically to let nature take its course and see what happens. I guess severing the parent roots will separate the trees from the saplings.
After a week and a half there doesnt seem to be any apparent difference in the saplings appearance. I am sure the weather has helped out a lot. Highs were in the low 80`s last week and are in the low 70`s this week. There has also been a good amount of rain in the last month so the ground is soft and moist. I am assuming it doesnt get any better than that for a small tree.
Thank you again for your advice and I will post what happens when I transplant them.

 

[erob914]

So far the saplings are doing ok. The leaves started to curl a little after a few days of 90 degree dry weather. After watering they are looking much better. I am assuming the immature root systems would be the cause of this.
Would it be better to sever the sapling when it is very small, say at 4"to 6", or wait till they get about 3` tall. At what point does the new sapling start to develop its own roots?

 

[ByrdzEye]

Your challenge is to get as much root mass directly under the sapling before you're ready to transplant. Once you severed the parent root, the remaining roots actually belong to the sapling but may be too lateral to be able to dig when transplant times comes.
If you still have unsevered sprouts, I would consider severing on the opposite side of the parent tree, slightly closer to the sprout than the size of the root ball you expect you will be digging (6-12 inches?). Both parent and sapling would suffer less and the parent tree and sapling will contribute to building a root system around and directly under the sapling. Sever from the parent the next season or when ready to transplant.
Hope this helps.

 

[erob914]

I did not think about the lateral root problem. Would it do any good to sever these at a certain distance from the sapling occasionally? Would it promote deeper roots if watered properly?
As far as unsevered sprouts go, I can let as many as I need grow. All I have to do is mow around them instead of over them. some sprouts come up 20 feet from the nearest parent. One sprout that I mowed around has grown to around 8 feet tall within 3 years.
Thanks again for all the advice. Eric.

 

[ByrdzEye]

From the description of the parent plant, really 'deep' roots may not be achievable, go for volume.
I would root prune no more than twice a year, early spring, early fall. Once a year (in the fall) is enough though.
You can encourage more roots by eliminating competition from grass. Add a few inches of pine straw from your pine stand around the base of the saplings. (Don't use fresh grass clippings.)
Water deeply if necessary.

 

[erob914]

plums and maples

Im another month of so I will be transplanting the plum and maple trees that have grown wild in my yard for the last year. How large a hole do i dig out around the trees to preserve enough roots for the trees to survive transplanting. The plums are 4 to 5 feet tall and the maples are 3 to 4 feet tall.
Also, do I amend the soil in the new hole or do i just leave it alone. Thanks for the help.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Wait for total leaf drop befor moving then dig as big a ball as you can handle, Minimum 2 foot.

If you can use a hose to wash the dirt awayand extrtact bare root, that would be even better. I have an air tool to dig with and have used it to move small trees.

The short answer is to get as much root as possible.

Amending, the consensus these days is to not do it if you are planting a balled tree. The thought is you will;
1. cause the plant to not root out of the planting hole as fast.
2. cause hydraulic discontinuity on the soil. that is that water flows through the soil as a surface effect on the particles. If you have an artificial horizon of differing sized particles, the top most laye must saturate before water can move down to the next layer.

 

[erob914]

Leaf drop around here is around Oct/Nov depending how fast summer moves out and fall moves in. That is not much more than a month away. The trees I have planted the last 2 years, a red maple and a southern magnolia, it was recommended I use clay cutter as an amendment. I have a hardpan about 1 1/2 to 2' below ground. I rented a fence post auger and loosend the soil in a 5' diameter and 5' deep. The trees are doing well. Is the clay cutter a good idea or and extra sale for the nursery. From what I understand it has few nutrients to affect root out.
Also, how can I determine which of these trees is more likely to be a good speciman for a transplant. Other than obvious injury and disease. I have about 10 maples and 20 to 25 plums to choose from.
Thanks for the advice JPS. Your time and expertiese are greatly appreciated.