Question about one of my saws

[Adam_MA]

Hey all,

Been a while since I've posted, but I have this problem with my Husquvarna 36. The saw runs great, but just recently, when filling the oil to do some limbing/clean-up work I noticed that when the saw is on it's side, oil just pours out of it. It's fine if it's upright, but as soon as it goes over to get filled it just starts pouring out.

I'm going to tear the saw down and have a look, but I was wondering if there was something I should specifically look at first.

Thanks in advance for any help
Adam

 

[wigglesworth]

Hey all,

Been a while since I've posted, but I have this problem with my Husquvarna 36. The saw runs great, but just recently, when filling the oil to do some limbing/clean-up work I noticed that when the saw is on it's side, oil just pours out of it. It's fine if it's upright, but as soon as it goes over to get filled it just starts pouring out.

I'm going to tear the saw down and have a look, but I was wondering if there was something I should specifically look at first.

Thanks in advance for any help
Adam

I think that the 36 is one of the saws that if the muffler is ran loose, it will melt a hole in the top of the tank. I would check there first.

 

[SawTroll]

I think that the 36 is one of the saws that if the muffler is ran loose, it will melt a hole in the top of the tank. I would check there first.

I also thought of that, before I read you post....

 

[Adam_MA]

Thanks! I'll check there first.

 

[Fish]

Does it have an Intenz bar????

 

[Fish]

Or just trouble keeping the chain tight?

 

[Adam_MA]

Not sure what an intenz bar is, but I don't have any issues keeping the chain adjusted. I generally don't use this saw, but it has served me very well in the time I've had it. My go-to saws are my MS390, and MS460. But I've got a bunch of small stuff to cut up, and I'd rather not swing the big saws all day.

 

[CGC4200]

If the oil tank has a leak

You might be able to patch it with JB weld, Devcon, or similar product.
It could be lines, check valves or another issue.
One of my neighbors has a Jonsered 2036, I think it shares
engine parts with the Husqvarna 36, he has had good luck with it.
Husqvarna support should have the IPL's (part lists) posted for that saw.

 

[Adam_MA]

And the results are.......

Melted oil tank!!!
Totally my fault though!! I lost one of the muffler bolts, it seemed to be tight, and the extra port added a bit of power!!! Well, guess I'll have to degrease it, clean it up, and hit it with the jb weld.

I'll post an update when completed!

 

[Jacob J.]

I think I have a 36 crankcase you can have for the cost of shipping if you want. I'll check and see if it's any good.

 

[StihlyinEly]

I think I have a 36 crankcase you can have for the cost of shipping if you want. I'll check and see if it's any good.

 

[Adam_MA]

I think I have a 36 crankcase you can have for the cost of shipping if you want. I'll check and see if it's any good.

Very generous offer! I appreciate it very much!

 

[subhunter]

Just a question, could that even be repaired with JB weld or would that be a wasted effort?

 

[JasonBmac]

I would repair that with pop rivits, sheet metal and some sealant myself... Haven't had much long-term luck with JB weld on flexible plastics...

J

 

[Streblerm]

There are some two part epoxies that are designed for plastic. I repaired a Shindaiwa gas tank that was leaking at the seam, and a nickel sized hole in a husky top cover with just such a product. What I have is called "plastic welder". I'm not sure who makes it. It is a two part in a syringe that squeezes out an equal amount. It dries fast and to a clear/milky color depending on thickness. It sticks very well to cleaned and scuffed plastic.

I would use it in a second to repair that oil tank. Clean the heck out of it and scuff it with some rough sandpaper. I would probably use a soldering iron to tack in a piece of stainless screen over the hole. Then I would cover the screen and pretty much the whole top of the oil tank with a layer of the plastic weld epoxy.

 

[Adam_MA]

The screen idea sounds like a good one... it might be hard to see from the pics, but the hole isn't a solid opening. There are plastic bridges going across the majority of the opening. I thought it might be a good plan to try to fill much of the hole with melted plastic, then cover with JB weld. After that has dried and cured, I was also thinking to cover the entire tank surface with a thin layer of JB weld, and while wet, covering that with a piece of sheet metal. I figured the metal would help protect against heat, and give another layer of repair surface...

Thoughts?

 

[Saw Dr.]

The screen idea sounds like a good one... it might be hard to see from the pics, but the hole isn't a solid opening. There are plastic bridges going across the majority of the opening. I thought it might be a good plan to try to fill much of the hole with melted plastic, then cover with JB weld. After that has dried and cured, I was also thinking to cover the entire tank surface with a thin layer of JB weld, and while wet, covering that with a piece of sheet metal. I figured the metal would help protect against heat, and give another layer of repair surface...

Thoughts?

Take the free tank.

 

[wigglesworth]

Take the free tank.

:agree2:

 

[pioneerguy600]

You have gotten very good advice from both sides here so far, free replacement is hard to pass up but I like to repair things myself if it will turn out well. I have fixed a half dozen of the 36 and 41 tanks caused by melting exhaust gases and all of them have been very successful. I first clean that area spicky span clean, then melt in a piece of donor plastic from a donor saw of the same type.Using an electric soldering gun with an angled flat blade mounted on it just melt in and bond the gap together tight, keep filling it up even and then flatten it out nicely. A piece of stainless steel mesh placed on top of the repair, then heated until it sinks into the repaired area, smooth the bits that squeese up through the screen again with the solder gun flat blade and that will make a strong repair. I often cut a piece of thin aluminum to fit in that area under the muffler, make it fit tightly and then with the muffler on it can`t come out and will shield the repaired area from excessive heat.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Jacob J.]

Take the free tank.

I dug the case out, it is good except for the one side next to where the muffler sits is melted a bit. The oil tank is great though. It's yours, just get me your address and I'll send it and you can reimburse me for shipping.