Question about Pin Oak

[Mike mandry]

I have a young Pin Oak.

I planted this tree 4 years ago this spring. It is aprox 14' tall & about 3 or 3-1/2" dia. about a foot above ground.

It appears to be healthy & is growing well.

early this year, I noticed some cracks in the bark about a foot above ground level that extend up to about 3 feet. They have gotten much worse over the summer.

It has been very dry here the last 2 years, but I have watered the tree regularly. & fertilized it in the spring.

Other than these cracks, the tree seems to be doing fine.

Any ideas what this is ??

Thanks

Mike

 

[deercatcher]

I am here in loUiSiAna, and trees behave differently in different places.But, look at a mature or older tree of the same species and I think you will find much rougher bark. In my opinion, the cracks are the older slick bark splitting as it expands, beginning to aquire more adult appearance. I am concerned about the black wrap at ground level. The mulch over the root zone is adequate to keep weed eaters away from the lower trunk.

 

[Mike mandry]

Thanks for the reply, I was thinking the same thing myself.

The black fabric was put on 3 years ago. The rabbits were chewing at the base of the trunk & the wrap seemed to keep them away.

 

[treeseer]

You need to Find the Flare and take a pic of that. See the Buying and Planting sites in the link below, then post a pic of the point where the first roots come off the trunk.

 

[Mike mandry]

OK, by flare, do you mean where the trunk starts to "Funnel" out.

Best I can tell, it looks normal; more normal than the rest of the bark. It actually looks like it is starting to develop bark rather than the more smooth surface of the other.

I will try to take a pic tonight.

 

[Mike mandry]

Here are some more pics, I was afraid to dig down any more. Does this help ??

 

[Dadatwins]

Tree looks like it might be a bit to deep, hard to tell with the picture so close. The root flair should be a the grade or just above the top of the soil around the tree. OK if the mulch covers it just a few inches of mulch is plenty to serve purpose. I don't like the black wrap on the trunk either, keeps moisture in against the trunk and is not a good thing. try using some corrugated plastic drain line, it usually comes 6-8" diameter, make a slit to pass it around the trunk about a foot high. keeps chewing critters away and does not lay directly on the trunk. As for cracks hard to say without seeing entire area. Might be natural growth or could be something else. Could be sun scald, do you run sprinkler early morning or midday? Water on the trunk in hot sun could cause that cracking. Is ground around the tree dark? Possibly a dark structure close by? sun reflecting off black mulch can cause bark cracking. Few more pics of overall site and branches of tree might help or get a certified arborist on site to diagnose. Good luck.

 

[treeseer]

Good tips by Dada. (Nice to meet you in va bch btw, thanks for coming up)

"I was afraid to dig down any more."

You have nothing to fear but girdling roots themselves. Dig carefully until you see the major woody roots coming off the trunk. All I see in the pics are a few small girdling roots wrapping around the stem. Use the hose if you fear nicking with the trowel.

 

[Mike mandry]

treeseer: Are you saying to dig deeper & take more pics, or lower the level of the soil around the tree more ??

Thanks

Mike

 

[treeseer]

treeseer: Are you saying to dig deeper & take more pics,

yes. Find the Flare.

 

[Mike mandry]

OK, I dug a little deeper & found 2 big roots that come of the trunk. one in the middle & the other on the right hand side Hope this helps.

 

[treeseer]

good progress, but not there yet. That big root on the right is growing at a suspicious angle--let's see where it originates on the trunk.

Those little roots that grow upward or cross the bigger roots, you can snip those off.

 

[Mike mandry]

The root on the right attatches to the trunk. There is another one just behind it.

 

[Dadatwins]

Looking more like it is in to deep as the pics progress, keep checking around the roots, use some water like Treeseer suggest will help loosen up the soil. Just let the water run on the ball and it will move the soil away. This will not harm the roots as long as you put the soil back after checking. Just don't leave the exposed roots out to dry and you will be fine.
The full tree picture is a big help to me. I suggest the box around the tree be 3 - 4 times the size, Mulch ring out to the drip line would be ideal, let the roots of that tree have less grass competition for limited water resources. Also looks like it might be time to do some limb training for structure. I would probably start clipping back the lower limbs as they will probably end up too low by next year. Thin leaves at the upper tips could be sign of tree planted to deep.
I would suggest some clearing at the base to see what is going on at the roots. Most root related issues will start showing at the 3-5 mark year after installation which is where you are.
Seer, good to meet you at MAC conf also, schedule at those things does not allow much social time, maybe another time. Did you notice the discoloration of the trunk tissue peeking out on the bottom in picture 2361? That wrap really needs to come off.

 

[treeseer]

Dada I agree that the box should be 4x wider. I think the flare is found, so no more digging needed around roots. re pruning, it's all in how the owner wants it. On palustris I'd let em sweep to the ground, but then it's be in the kids' way.

I may be at roanoke and waynesboro next year, as well as hagerstown. Getting out more now that kids are ollder.

 

[Mike mandry]

OK, so I should dig out around the trunk a little & lower things.

I will remove the wrap & replace with some plastic drain tubing.

I have only removed 2 limbs from the lower part of the tree.

Should I remove more limbs from the bottom, or leave them be ? doesn't really matter to me if its not really neccesary.

Should I fertilize it at all in the fall (now) or not ?

I usually fertilize in the spring (I use 3 of those fertilizer stakes @ the drip line)

Are the cracks fom the tree being too deep ??

Thanks for all of your help.

Mike

 

[Dadatwins]

OK, so I should dig out around the trunk a little & lower things.

I will remove the wrap & replace with some plastic drain tubing.

I have only removed 2 limbs from the lower part of the tree.

Should I remove more limbs from the bottom, or leave them be ? doesn't really matter to me if its not really neccesary.

Should I fertilize it at all in the fall (now) or not ?

I usually fertilize in the spring (I use 3 of those fertilizer stakes @ the drip line)

Are the cracks fom the tree being too deep ??

Thanks for all of your help.

Mike

Summary

Remove the wrap, replace with drain tubing
remove/enlarge the wooden box, expand the mulch ring
Low limbs, matter of choice, If they are high enough out of the kids play area, leave them, If the plan is to remove them start with 1/2 this year and the rest next year. Use the rule of removing no more than 1/3 pruning at a time. like Seer said depends on the look you want.
As for fertilizing, prefer a soil test before adding anything, contact local extension office, they usually do it for free or maybe a few $$$. Know what you need before adding and wasting $$$
Not sure of the cracks, could be natural as tree is developing, could be the wrap, hard to tell from a chair so far away, continue to monitor them.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I would probably start clipping back the lower limbs as they will probably end up too low by next year.

To me, this advise is about as appealing as fingernails being slowly scrapped across a chalkboard.
The limbs will be too low for what? To be able to ram the lawn mower into the trunk? To poke you in the eye while string trimming the tree to death? To shade the soil which would create a cool moist environment for roots to grow?
Will people ever understand that open grown trees benefit from lower branches?
In a few years, after the lower limbs are all stripped off, the leaves will become chlorotic and Dada will tell you the reason is lack of Iron and prescribe trunk injections.

The tree still looks too deep, although it's hard to tell because the excavation is only on one side, and the picture are hard to make out.
Here's my advice:
Carefully remove the wood box. Throw it in the trash. Do not replace it.
Finish the root flare excavation, or have somebody experienced do it. The box removal should allow the grade to eventually get down to where it appears it should be. Again, I can't really tell from here. Once the box is gone a hose might work really well to expose the roots.
Create a chip bed about two feet wider than the tree's drip line. Weedeat the grass down to dirt, add a layer of compost, then cover with decorative woodchips. Total depth of compost and chips should not exceed 3".
Do not cut any living branches off unless you have a very specific reason. If you have Oak Wilt in your area, precautions need to be taken before any cutting.
Water during drought, whenever you have more than a week without rain and high temperatures.

If I were planting a tree I would want it to grow to be something outstanding some day. Do you want another lollipop shaped tree? I'd want a tree that will grow so it can be touched (Alex Shigo) and climbed. Most people don't soon forget being around a large mature tree that has had it's lower limbs allowed to grow. It's a rare beautiful thing to be able to walk into a tree, sit on a huge lower limb, for kids to be able to climb into it and play.
When I think of a beautiful, majestic tree, I don't think of a ball on top of a stick. If the tree is stuck between a street and a sidewalk, then so be it, but I'm not planting such a tree in and open area like this.

 

[Dixie1]

very well said.

 

[Dadatwins]

To me, this advise is about as appealing as fingernails being slowly scrapped across a chalkboard.
The limbs will be too low for what? To be able to ram the lawn mower into the trunk? To poke you in the eye while string trimming the tree to death? To shade the soil which would create a cool moist environment for roots to grow?
Will people ever understand that open grown trees benefit from lower branches?
In a few years, after the lower limbs are all stripped off, the leaves will become chlorotic and Dada will tell you the reason is lack of Iron and prescribe trunk injections.

.

Jeez Mr. Mass, someone pissed in your corn flakes or what? I advised the homeowner in my opinion that the limbs would be to low as I assumed he would have a pre-teen ( see picture ) loaded with energy running around the front yard and the low branches I again assume would be eye level and create a hazard. If the homeowner is comfortable with the structure of the tree as it currently is I advise to leave it alone. I also prescribe to the fact that NOW, when the tree young is the time to train the tree for proper structure and form. If one limb is starting to over-extend to one side should we leave it and allow the tree to start to develop a lean to that side? Or do we reduce it and allow the tree to keep its upright stance? I understand the fact that pruning is wounding and it should be kept to a minimum if at all and most trees will develope fine on their own, but if it is necessary and sometimes it is, then I advise to do it now, while the tree is young and full of vigor to recover, instead of when it gets old and cranky, I mean mature and does not have the same resources.