Question about Woods Porting?

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Using a degree wheel in a woods ported saw is no less a tool than with a racesaw.

You not having used a degree wheel doesn't mean it's not worth the little effort. If you haven't used one, how would you know of it's benefits?

I'm not saying it won't help. I'm not trying to get every bit out of a woods port either. If someone would show me in a video comparison woods port and then change timing after that and it gained 5% or more I might do it. I'm happy with 15-30% without changing timing.

Here's the tools I've been using lately.

009-1.jpg


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Hey guys, I am new to this site. Anyway, I recently bought a Husqvarna 390XP and I am very interested in getting it woods ported. Until I discovered this site I did not even know that such a thing existed, but now knowing that it does, I really wanna get some work done to my saw.

I would contact someone who knows how to build a competitive race saw. Building a saw that will run on pump gas all day is a piece of cake for a real builder, and it will make power.
 
A 288 can be a real runner from what some have told me. I've never had the pleasure to run one. I think if you get yours done by next tuesday or wednesday and make it to hillbilly's I might get to. You'll be able to run a 390 too.
 
Al
What was that thread of Yours,when you did the 371 BB w/pics?
That was very good on the lowwer transfers and matching the case.
 
Using a degree wheel in a woods ported saw is no less a tool than with a racesaw.

You not having used a degree wheel doesn't mean it's not worth the little effort. If you haven't used one, how would you know of it's benefits?



Don't grind up in the transfers. It's not only not necessary but you could hurt flow if you haven't had considerable experience. Just match your lower transfers to the bottom end. Don't worry about your uppers at this stage.

Do yourself a favor and search and read on the degreeing. If you decide to do this we can help along the way. If you decide not go this route, leave it till next time.

I agree with Al here. Degree a saw isn't that hard with a little practice of reading the wheel and getting repeatable results.

I'm not saying it won't help. I'm not trying to get every bit out of a woods port either. If someone would show me in a video comparison woods port and then change timing after that and it gained 5% or more I might do it. I'm happy with 15-30% without changing timing.

I did a 371 basic job once, just widen and take out gasket, then I got the saw back a year later, then I went in for more after I learned some more, degreed the saw, made the port shapes better, and was really surprised that it gained a whole lot more then from the first time.
 
If I decide to put the other 390 together I might degree it and see what happens.
 
Here is a poor comparison, but its something. In these vids you can hear the difference, well, I can at least.

First vid is of the first port job, just widen and no gasket, no spark screen. This wood is soft pine.

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second vid, better port shapes, better timing numbers and worked over the upper transfers and lower transfer really well. Also machined cylinder and pop-up piston.

This wood is also much much harder. This one holds is rpm much better.

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fqVqk8GLuDY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fqVqk8GLuDY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
 
Last edited:
The 365BB

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/C2gqY5hZUGY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/C2gqY5hZUGY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

371BB

<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/TYHuEmZWxo4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/TYHuEmZWxo4?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
 
I have to agree with the use of the degree wheel. I've found that some saws have way too little intake timing. Increasing intake duration on these really bought them to life. On others the exhaust and intake duration are nearly the same so I spend more time on port shape and width. I also have found big gains in the upper transfers. I like to try different things so I'm always looking for inexpensive saws to go under the knife. :cheers:
 
Send that saw to D and D in Southern Indiana, tell them to soup it up. I had them do my 390xp and it runs like a raped ape.
 
Wow guys, thanks for all the info so far. It is a lot to take in. I am super pumped to get my 390 all beefed up and running to it's potential. I mean it is a great saw now, so I can only imagine how good it will be once I get it souped up.

Does D and D in Southern Indiana have a website. If not could you give me their contact info. I would like to at least look into what they have to offer before I make a decision of which way I am going with my 390.
 
D & D Enterprises
4361 W Hill Farm Road
Salem, IN 47167-8587

No website but thats why they are porting saws for 90 bucks.
 
90 bucks????????????? something aint right there? How much can they possibly do for 90 bucks.

They break down your saw and go through it completly. Port it and advance the timing. 120 max depending upon what you want done.
 

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