Questions About Buying & Burning Firewood

[dale1948]

I'm new to using firewood for heat. We purchased a house in a location where power outages are not uncommon so we have wood stoves (one came with the house).

I'm 65 and have a bad back, etc., so going out and cutting my own wood is out of the question. We have been buying it cut, split, and delivered for $60 a face cord. I see that as a very reasonable price but I have found much of it very difficult to get burning. Once I have a hot fire going it works quite well. But at first I go through a lot of kindling wood.

I realize the wood is probably not well seasoned which I suppose is pretty typical for wood purchased this way. But since we haven't had time to allow stacked wood to season, I have the following questions:

1. How can I make it easier to start a fire? Are there any safe tricks other than using up a bucket of kindling each time? I do try to split the wood down (I now have major tennis elbow because of this...ugh!). Someone once told me something about soaking dried pine in fuel oil to make fire starters. Anyone here ever hear of that?

2. Are there firewood sellers who sell fully seasoned wood? If so, how should I go about finding them? All I have called claim their wood is seasoned oak but so far I've only received 3 face cord that actually was seasoned (sweet!). The next load from that person was green as grass.

3. Where can I find lower cost scrap wood for kindling? Years ago I knew an old man who used to buy factory skids for this purpose. I don't know if these are still sold today.

4. Are those cheap Chinese wood splitters any good whatsoever?

Thanks for anything suggestions.

 

[KyleOh]

All your firewood guys should be selling you seasoned wood. If not I would be calling them back and having them come out and pick this wet wood up. I guess if you are going to burn it I would get you a box of fire starters. They are cheap and will save on your elbow.

 

[Steve NW WI]

The best insurance for dry firewood is to buy it now for next year. Perhaps you can get a discount on buying green wood?

Cabinet shops, or just about any place that does wood work on much of any scale should have cheap/free kindling available if you ask nicely. Factories throw out junk pallets every day, and it's not uncommon to find a few behind the local grocery store.

There are a couple guys here that use the small electric splitters and like them. They aren't production machines, but they beat swinging an ax or maul.

 

[dale1948]

All your firewood guys should be selling you seasoned wood. If not I would be calling them back and having them come out and pick this wet wood up. I guess if you are going to burn it I would get you a box of fire starters. They are cheap and will save on your elbow.

Thanks. Most of the wood was probably cut last spring but some just sizzles. We're now trying to separate it and save the wet for next year. LP gas is our other option and it's nasty expensive plus it doesn't heat like wood.

I'll check out those wood starters.

 

[dale1948]

The best insurance for dry firewood is to buy it now for next year. Perhaps you can get a discount on buying green wood?

Cabinet shops, or just about any place that does wood work on much of any scale should have cheap/free kindling available if you ask nicely. Factories throw out junk pallets every day, and it's not uncommon to find a few behind the local grocery store.

There are a couple guys here that use the small electric splitters and like them. They aren't production machines, but they beat swinging an ax or maul.

Thanks.
I'll check out those electric splitters. Most wood I get has fairly straight grain so maybe one will work for my limited home use.

 

[Foxfire]

Also, if you aren't already and have the room stack the wood as close to the stove as you safely can. It won't solve all your problems but it'll help...

 

[Rsquared]

If you buy your eggs in the old fashioned container, not the styrofoam ones, save your dryer lint, put some lint in all 12 egg holders, melt a candle down, pour the wax over the lint and once the wax hardens up, you have 12 fire starters. Just rip one off, place some nice dry kindling over it and light it up. They work very well..
I have a 5 ton electric splitter and I have put it thru its paces. It has served me well, but as Steve said, it's not a production splitter by any means..

 

[Fred Wright]

The fire starters work well. My brother sent us a box last year. They're essentially sawdust and wax, pressed into a half-round shape. We've used 'em when kindling just refused to get started due to moisture.

Start small with dry twigs and sticks on newsprint and some carton paper, like a cereal box or beer case. They're easy to get burning. Then add slightly larger pieces. You need a bed of hot coals to get the bigger stuff going. Even partially seasoned wood will burn as long as it has a bed of coals under it.

As for firewood deliveries, I'd suggest a moisture meter to determine if you're getting burnable wood. MMs can be had for around $25.00. When the firewood delivery arrives, pull a split, pop it in half with a hatchet and check the moisture content on the freshly split side before the load is dumped. Don't take the driver's word. Check it yourself. In our experience, moisture content at 18% or lower gives a good burn.

Kindling can come from several sources. We simply save brush from cut trees and break it into pieces. Stored inside it will be dry when you need it. Take a walk through the woods and pick it up, place it in a tote. When dry it'll work well.

Hope it helps.

 

[Marc]

Only one thing to add from me... don't buy pallets if you can help it. Lots of places around here give pallets away that are broken or otherwise unusable but still burnable. Just be careful what you do with the ashes if you burn wood with nails in it. I like to spread wood ash on the driveway when it ices up and otherwise goes in the garden, so I avoid wood with nails in it to prevent tire punctures.

 

[zogger]

the best..just get ahead several years. Then you will know it is seasoned as good as it can get.

If you tell the sellers in advance you will take fresh green wood at a discount, you might get that discount. If you get a cheap electric splitter, and tell them thats all you have so dont bring huge heavy rounds, that might work as well. the less those guys have to handle the wood the price should drop accordingly.

In the meantime, ya, old skids/pallets and dry branches from the woods.

We keep three days worth stacked up behind the stove so it gets a little toasting before it goes in. Then I just rotate in a day at a time as I burn one day at a time. whatever is being burned sat there and got the last little bit of moisutree out. And once we start burning, theres always coals, even when I clean it out I leave hot coals in there. Starting from scratch is no fun.

Also take some of what you do have split and resplit it smaller, small as it needs to be to get good coals going and established before you add the full size splits in.

Really try to not burn wet wood, just gunks it all up.

Anyt of the lesser species, like pine, etc, a lot of places are considered junk wood, meaning ree to real dang cheap. Loose bark, no bark, light weight, should be easy to tell. Dry, nice and dry, will burn just great! Perhaps you can get a cord of that from a local supplier for cheap.. Standing dead pine, small diameter, or blowdowns with the bark falling off, you get a good ire going with that stuff you can throw your semi wet hardwood on and it will get it going fast.

 

[flyboy553]

As for firewood deliveries, I'd suggest a moisture meter to determine if you're getting burnable wood. MMs can be had for around $25.00. When the firewood delivery arrives, pull a split, pop it in half with a hatchet and check the moisture content on the freshly split side before the load is dumped. Don't take the driver's word. Check it yourself. In our experience, moisture content at 18% or lower gives a good burn.


Hope it helps.

18% moisture content is an optimum content. Yes, the wood will burn beautifully at that, but really, anything under 24% will burn nicely. I sell firewood, and I sell anything that is under 22%, but for myself, will burn 24 and even 25%. Guys with those EPA stoves need to be under 22 to burn effectively.

Ted

 

[dale1948]

If you buy your eggs in the old fashioned container, not the styrofoam ones, save your dryer lint, put some lint in all 12 egg holders, melt a candle down, pour the wax over the lint and once the wax hardens up, you have 12 fire starters. Just rip one off, place some nice dry kindling over it and light it up. They work very well..
I have a 5 ton electric splitter and I have put it thru its paces. It has served me well, but as Steve said, it's not a production splitter by any means..

WOW...thanks!

 

[dale1948]

the best..just get ahead several years. Then you will know it is seasoned as good as it can get.

If you tell the sellers in advance you will take fresh green wood at a discount, you might get that discount. If you get a cheap electric splitter, and tell them thats all you have so dont bring huge heavy rounds, that might work as well. the less those guys have to handle the wood the price should drop accordingly.

In the meantime, ya, old skids/pallets and dry branches from the woods.

We keep three days worth stacked up behind the stove so it gets a little toasting before it goes in. Then I just rotate in a day at a time as I burn one day at a time. whatever is being burned sat there and got the last little bit of moisutree out. And once we start burning, theres always coals, even when I clean it out I leave hot coals in there. Starting from scratch is no fun.

Also take some of what you do have split and resplit it smaller, small as it needs to be to get good coals going and established before you add the full size splits in.

Really try to not burn wet wood, just gunks it all up.

Anyt of the lesser species, like pine, etc, a lot of places are considered junk wood, meaning ree to real dang cheap. Loose bark, no bark, light weight, should be easy to tell. Dry, nice and dry, will burn just great! Perhaps you can get a cord of that from a local supplier for cheap.. Standing dead pine, small diameter, or blowdowns with the bark falling off, you get a good ire going with that stuff you can throw your semi wet hardwood on and it will get it going fast.

Thanks. Good comment.

 

[Mac88]

You can usually get free skids from your local lumber yard. I could probably get a dozen a week if I wanted them, just from one local store.

As your wood starts to dry, knock as much bark off the splits as you can easily do. It will speed the drying time AND give you a good source of starter for the next season. Small branches (dry), construction lumber scraps and cutoffs, split small, all make good starter as well

 

[dale1948]

Only one thing to add from me... don't buy pallets if you can help it. Lots of places around here give pallets away that are broken or otherwise unusable but still burnable. Just be careful what you do with the ashes if you burn wood with nails in it. I like to spread wood ash on the driveway when it ices up and otherwise goes in the garden, so I avoid wood with nails in it to prevent tire punctures.

So true. We live on a lake and without thinking I threw some ashes into the lake (I did this only once because they were red hot). Then it dawned on me that there were nails (aluminum) in that wood. So, in the spring I have a little bottom sifting job on my hands. I don't want the grandchildren stepping on nails.

 

[Wood Doctor]

A Few Answers

"1. How can I make it easier to start a fire?"

Use dry wood. Place two to three logs on the bottom. Add tinder and cardboard sheet or two on top of them wrapped with newspapers. Add a log or two on top. Light the newspapers.

"2. Are there firewood sellers who sell fully seasoned wood?"

Yes, I do to all my customers for $100 a pickup truckload racked up. Most of it is split logs. See my avatar.

"3. Where can I find lower cost scrap wood for kindling?"
Save and use small tree branches cut to 16" lengths and every scrap from the workshop.

"4. Are those cheap Chinese wood splitters any good whatsoever?"

Not really unless you enjoy repairing them and making them work.

 

[Tazfreak]

In AUS if you buy firewood dry,split, u pay say $180 per ton,if u order green or unseasoned split wood expect to pay $35 per ton or less.If u buy ahead for next year u could save a bundle of money buying the green stuff.If u bought green wood but were told it be dry wood u shouldn,t have to pay for it and get a full refund.Over here we firewood sellers have a black list of ripoff merchants who sell the public poor quality/wet or short measurement firewood.adding to it all the time unfortunately.BUYER BEWARE.opcorn:

 

[Gavman]

Pallets are great burning, good idea for processing them is to lay them three wide all the way up your driveway and each time you come home in the car you will automatically make kindling, park the car and just casually wander down and load your arms with the goodies....

Good luck with your new stove and if I were you buy two years ahead right now this month and you will be golden next September....

 

[cantoo]

Get a load of ash, hand split the pieces to separate bark from wood, and burn the barkless pieces now, stack the ones with bark beside the stove and burn them after a couple days of sitting by the stove. Burn your hardwood next year. Oh yeah, buy next years firewood today and burn it in 2 years.

 

[mountainmandan]

I sell wood, and every stick I sell is fully dry, but I am the exception in my area.

If you want dry wood, and also enjoy getting a discount here are some ideas.

Tell your supplier you want green wood, and store it for next year. If I do not have to unload, stack, wait a year, reload, deliver, and stack I am willing to give discounts. Of course the guys have been doing that to you already, you just have not been getting the discount.

If you want an extra discount, split the rounds yourself.

I have been cutting trees for customers on their land with my tools. They pay me an hourly rate and I process their wood for them, all of this is for next year. You have to trust the people who work on your land, since wood cutting is dangerous.

Be firm on the phone that if you do not like the looks of the load, you will refuse, and really follow through with it. You don't have to be a jerk, but they are trying to cheat you by selling you wet wood; so don't be a victim.

This time of year, the legitimate sellers are running out of last years wood, I ran out about 2 weeks ago, and no matter how much I would like to sell more, I can not make it dry. So if you are getting a load that is truly dry, expect to pay more because of scarcity.

You will probably just have to get by for this year, with pallets, cutoffs and such. But you really have it in your power to prepare for next year, and it is a race to be ready for next year. I want to have all of my wood for sale split and stacked by late feb early march. Any later and you are risking it not being ready. It depends on your climate, farther north and you have to be prepared earlier.

I sell to people who prepare ahead of time, and people who wait until they need it before ordering, and the people who wait are lucky the called me, since they could just as easily be getting junk.

You said you just got the place and there is not much you can do about that, but with planning, this will be the last winter you have to deal with it.

Dan