Questions about Homelite Super XL Automatic

[undee70ss]

There are new aftermarket ones also, but I have no experience with them.

 

[Wright Saw]

I found a used crankcase/cylinder assembly (complete except for drive case) for an XL-12 on eBay. It has a thrust bearing on the clutch side of the crankshaft like an XL-12, but the cylinder has the same part number as a Super XL cylinder (58706-B). My Homelite's cylinder has the same number, so I will probably get it and swap the cylinders.

 

[Wright Saw]

In the parts lists, part numbers 58706, 58706-4 and A-69715 are shown as cylinders for the XL-12. Part numbers 58706-B1 and A-69714 are for the Super XLs. But, while looking on eBay, I found a few cylinders that were from XL-12s that had 58706-B cast into them. My Homelite Super XL's cylinder also has 58706-B cast into it. Is 58706-B the same bore as 58706-B1, or have the cylinders been switched on some of these saws?

Thank you

 

[undee70ss]

Measure the bore you have now. 1 3/4 is XL12. 13/16 is SXL.

 

[Wright Saw]

Measure the bore you have now. 1 3/4 is XL12. 13/16 is SXL.

I don't have the saw taken apart yet, but I will soon to measure the bore to find a correct replacement cylinder.

 

[Wright Saw]

I started taking this saw apart. I have removed the flywheel, rear handle cover, carburetor, front handle, bar, clutch, and reeds. Now I need to remove the rear handle/air box and fuel tank. It looks like the rear handle needs to come off before the fuel tank, is this correct?
And if so, what is the best way to disconnect the oil line going from the elbow check valve at the rear handle to the drivecase?

Thank you

 

[Wright Saw]

Okay, I figured out how to access the oil line nut, you just have to move the stator out of the way and put the open end of a wrench on the nut at a weird angle. The nut was not very tight, so I think it has been tightened this way before. I will probably have the cylinder off later today.

 

[67L36Driver]

I was gifted with an XL-12 carcass yesterday.

I do my part to reduce landfill clutter. [emoji6]

 

[Wright Saw]

I took the cylinder off today. It came off in two pieces. The cylinder looks very clean on the inside, and there is hardly any carbon in the combustion chamber. The piston has some discolored areas where the intake ports were. These areas do not feel as smooth as the rest of the piston. The cylinder bore measures about 13/16".




So, since a couple cylinder/crankcase assemblies for XL-12s on eBay have the same cylinder part number as this Super XL, that must mean someone installed a bigger piston and cylinder on the XL-12s?
The crankshaft seals (58688-A, 58308-A) for this saw are not available anywhere. Will crankshaft seals 12282-A and 58308-B work instead?

Thank you

 

[HarleyT]

Looks like one that I blew up using ether, way back in the day....

 

[67L36Driver]

Looks like one that I blew up using ether, way back in the day....

I wonder how they would run on model airplane fuel.[emoji848]

 

[Wright Saw]

I have been taking this saw apart, and have got it down to the bare crankshaft. It will have new piston rings, gaskets, seals and bearings when I am finished.
I found these filters just rolling around in the oil tank. The one on the left is supposed to be part of the oil filter/fitting but it came off at some point. I don't recognize the one on the right, it looks like a sintered bronze filter, similar to the one in the fuel cap, but a different shape. It has a reddish orange gasket on it and a hole inside it. Does this belong in my Super XL, and if it does, where does it go?

 

[67L36Driver]

One on left is oil tank strainer.

One on right, IDK. Not one I ever discovered in a Homie.

One of these two should work fine for the fuel tank.

I’ve found all manner of ‘oopisies’ in fuel and oil tanks.

 

[Wright Saw]

Thank you. I am going to order a new strainer and leave the other filter off the saw. It must have fallen in by accident.
I already have a fuel filter, I got it from NAPA as a cross-reference to the original part number.

 

[Wright Saw]

I put the crankcase together a few days ago. It has a new crankcase gasket, crankshaft seals, and all new bearings and retainers. I also cleaned out the oil tank and filter, and installed a new oil tank gasket, screw, pickup line and pickup screen. Also, I cleaned the automatic oiler up and reinstalled it with new O-rings. The piston cleaned up nicely with a Scotch-Brite pad and it will have new rings when reinstalled. Here are a couple of pictures of the completed crankcase:

I also cleaned the air box and fuel tank. The tank has a new fuel line grommet and the fuel cap has a new duckbill valve and filter. The air box has a new felt washer and cotter pin.


The serial tag cleaned up good, too.

 

[Little Al]

Thanks for the links and info. I'll run the saw some after I fix the ignition and see if the ring frees up. If the compression is still low, I'll look into getting new rings and maybe a piston.

Pour a desert spoon size of4stroke engine oil down the plug hole fit old / scrap spark plug pull over a few times & then recheck compression if improved pull the cyl & free replace rings around 150psi is ideal compression

 

[Wright Saw]

Thank you, Little Al. I found out the cylinder was cracked before I could continue to troubleshoot the lower compression. I have new rings that I will install with the replacement cylinder.

 

[Wright Saw]

I got a good used cylinder and some other parts for this saw from @svk and they arrived yesterday. I have almost finished putting the saw back together. All I have left is to tighten the clutch and flywheel, and install the starter, bar and chain.

Used cylinder

Used cylinder installed

Rebuilt carburetor and linkages installed

Fuel tank, rear handle, oil line, felling spike, air filter and cover installed

Ignition system and front handle installed

The saw seems to have more compression than before, and the flywheel and coil are no longer touching. I will probably have it finished and test it later today.

 

[svk]

Looking good!

 

[Wright Saw]

I finished putting the saw together, and I will see if it runs tomorrow. I have $333 in parts, and took almost every piece off of it and pretty much restored it except for repainting.