gink595
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've never seen a race chain, can someone post some pics of a true race chain.
Race chain
- Thread starter the woolfe man
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Hoping not to get off track here but do any saw races get run using control chains? At least then you'll see the fastest saw and not the fastest chain. I'd never be any good at racing otherwise because;
a) I'd never spend USD$150+ on a chain apart from maybe Carbide and...
b) I don't have multiple hours available to make and test my own chains and...
c) It wouldn't handle a dirty old Redgum log very well
a) I'd never spend USD$150+ on a chain apart from maybe Carbide and...
b) I don't have multiple hours available to make and test my own chains and...
c) It wouldn't handle a dirty old Redgum log very well
AUSSIE1
Al.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2006
- Messages
- 8,004
- Reaction score
- 1,979
Best to get yourself some chisel and practice square filling. When the cutter gets toward the end, do some more work to the chain.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
I agree,when the chain is near the end of its useful life anyway why not experment.By then some of the crome will be honed off and provided the rakers are adjusted to the kerf it should cut well up to the point the teeth start breaking off.
More than likely most of what devoloped into race chain was learned in the field.
Grinding race chains/reasonable
I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
redprospector
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
Hmmmm!
Andy
I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
Yup, that not race chain Ohio man.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
I've always found that chain cuts faster and faster if set up properly as it gets closer to the end of it's life
Just when you're absolutely flying it's time to throw it in the bin, or the cutters snap off I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
To me that looks like just a stock chain with the back ground off the cutter
I can do that on my grinder with Dinasaw wheels in 2 minutes.I have to be honest but I doubt it would be any, if at all, faster than stock chain. Why would it be apart from slightly less drag from the back of the cutter? I'm no expert but the words "ground" and "race chain" don't go in the same sentence. Maybe "meticulously hand crafted with a file for hours" and "race chain" may sound better...
Last edited:
hmmmm!
Andy
+1
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Mostly a chain cuts faster towards the end due to the reduction in width as the tooth is filed back. On smaller lower HP saws works well right back behind the rear rivet. On bigger saws say 10-12hp and up it is often better to keep more tooth and not file back so far. I think the height of the tooth and chip clearing starts to become a factor. Gearing can change that, if running a low (small) gear a more forward bigger cutter will do a better job of getting the HP to the wood, but gear up with a big sprocket and a smaller cutter near the back ends up faster.
There are a few simple things that can be done to a work chain and gain quite a bit of cutting speed without really hurting how long it will last. Maybe only worth while for someone doing production felling or tree work. Just the same I don't mind spending a few extra minutes on a chain just for cutting fire wood for 2-3 families.
There are a few simple things that can be done to a work chain and gain quite a bit of cutting speed without really hurting how long it will last. Maybe only worth while for someone doing production felling or tree work. Just the same I don't mind spending a few extra minutes on a chain just for cutting fire wood for 2-3 families.
I've been grinding a simple race chain from stock chain for about 25 years. Safe as possible and fast. With factory drag height, and they are fast. Won't last long in the woods though. No rivet grinding, it is stock as possible. Here are some pics of .404 full chisel. I grind any size or pitch. Shipped anywhere in the world. PM me for prices, very reasonable.
Your style race chain would be a little faster than a stock out of the box chain but it would only win a race between you and your buddy running a stock chain on identical saws. IMO.
Pioneerguy600
Looks to be round ground to me. That won't win any races.
BloodOnTheIce
Addicted to ArboristSite
There's a few smaller shows that have stock saw and work saw classes and a good chain can make a big difference. And also a competent operator helps.
Here are a couple pics another forum member sent me. I'm trying to figure out what holds this chain together!!!!!
I see no rivet heads at all to hold it together. I'd think the whole chain would just fly apart immediately.
Last edited:
timberwolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well the rivets tops realy don't hold it together, alot of it is just the expansion of the whole rivet head in the hole in the tie strap.
None the less that is an ugly chain, likely not very safe to run and the cutter shown is dull to boot.
All that grinding on the sides is for what? the chain does not look to be thinned but enough to take the chrome off and the cutter is well forward so it won't do much anyhow. Rivets only really become a problem when the cutters get taken way back and are thinned. There then is a point where the chain/bar will bind in the cut and thinning the bar and rivets then makes a difference.
None the less that is an ugly chain, likely not very safe to run and the cutter shown is dull to boot.
All that grinding on the sides is for what? the chain does not look to be thinned but enough to take the chrome off and the cutter is well forward so it won't do much anyhow. Rivets only really become a problem when the cutters get taken way back and are thinned. There then is a point where the chain/bar will bind in the cut and thinning the bar and rivets then makes a difference.
Last edited:
