Rattle Can Paint Advice

[Sepia]

I painted a case half on my 288xp today. I used Husqvarna orange rattle can paint and it turned out pretty good. I baked it in the oven (wife was away lol) at 180 degrees for 1 hour and it came out smooth and shiny. The only thing is, I think it would look even better with a second coat, and that presents a dilemma. I have has both success and failure with applying a second coat of rattle can paint. Sometimes it turns out excellent, but sometimes it will crinkle terribly and ruin the finish.

Does anyone have any tips to prevent paint from wrinkling when applying a second coat?

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

Apply coat #2 as soon as coat #1 isn't wet to the touch.

OR

Apply coat #2 after the paint has fully cured - anywhere between 2 days and 2 weeks depending on the paint.

The label on the can should have this information as applicable to the contents of the can.

 

[Deleted member 149229]

Wet sand LIGHTLY before applying 2nd coat.

 

[1Alpha1]

^^^^^^^ Exactly what he said. 400 grit wet /dry sandpaper. Soak it in water before use and keep it wet. Light pressure when sanding.

Small pieces work best.

 

[ken morgan]

If you baked it it should be dry enough to not shrink any more. I would 600 grit wet sand it, and wear disposable gloves...the oil from your skin is enough to make the next coat fish eye all over the place.

 

[Sepia]

I have oven baked one coat on both case haves now. I know they would benefit from a second coat, but they look good now so I am debating rolling the dice on a second coat. I am still waiting on my gasket set so I have a few days to mull it over.

 

[ken morgan]

I have oven baked one coat on both case haves now. I know they would benefit from a second coat, but they look good now so I am debating rolling the dice on a second coat. I am still waiting on my gasket set so I have a few days to mull it over.

If you went that far...than anything less than perfect is a non starter...wet sand them, keep you dirty paws in some gloves and then repaint and bake again. If it screws up you can always sand and try again.

 

[ken morgan]

also, you can by things like sealer spray (prevents reactions between coats of color, though if you are using the same paint form the same can and baking between coats you should not need) , and anti fish eye cleaner (silicon off) removes residual oils from skin and sweat drops between coats...(probably need)

 

[Sepia]

Well I had a couple weeks to think about it, and this morning I put a second coat on those case halves. I think it turned out well, but we will see once it is done baking - it looked good going on, and no visible wrinkling. I will post a pic when it's done drying.

 

[holeycow]

If only the wifey knew what goes in the oven and dishwasher from time to time....

 

[holeycow]

And freezer.

Well, all of the appliances come to think of it..

Occasional shop accessories.

Shhhhhh

 

[holeycow]

I’m just curious; how did you prep the magnesium prior to paint?

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

I have the old toaster oven in the garage. Only 1 heating element works, but it does the job. Everything from powder coating my cast lead boolits to heating pistons before inserting the wrist pin. No food at this point though. Yes, it's small, so baking a whole chainsaw is out of the question.

 

[Sepia]

I’m just curious; how did you prep the magnesium prior to paint?

That was a time consuming task. First scrape off 24 years of crud. Then blast with air. Then brush and bathe in a pan of solvent. Then upstairs to the kitchen sink to wash in hot water and Sunlight dish soap. Then a light sanding and another bath in the sink. Then mask all machined surfaces and apply many light coats over a period of about 15 minutes, then bake at 180 fahrenheit. Today just a light sand in the sink then dry in front of shop heater, then many light coats again. I leave it in the oven for about 90 minutes.

 

[holeycow]

please let us know how that paint job stands up

I did some light reading a couple of years ago about magnesium prep which involved a very fancy approach with acids and fancy primers and some such??

 

[Brent Nowell]

If anyone cares and doesn’t want to use husky paint, engine high temp paint is a great candidate for chainsaw cases.
Extremely durable once baked and no primer needed. I use it for all my guns that require make overs, my m14 has had this paint on it for 11 years and I hunt with it often, no scratches.

I apply two sometimes three coats after careful prepping and cleaning. If you are painting over original paint this paint is only as strong as the original coat, but for a saw that should be a non issue.
I wait 12-24 hours to dry and then bake the pieces in the oven for 45 minutes.

The paint you want is engine paint rated for 550 degrees. They make a 2000 degree paint but you must use primer with that one!

Duplicolor is best that requires no primer where as the VHT paint at 2000 degrees does.

 

[1Alpha1]

Thrift shops and 2nd hand shops often get large counter-top toaster ovens in. They get tested and then put up for sale.

Some years ago, I found one. It was quite large and in very good shape. The store had a 50% off sale, so I got it for $10.00. When I brought it home, my wife was so impressed with it, she wanted it for her kitchen.

Since she's the one making my meals, she got her way. About a month or so later, I did find another. It wasn't as nice, but it did work.

 

[holeycow]

I have the old toaster oven in the garage. Only 1 heating element works, but it does the job. Everything from powder coating my cast lead boolits to heating pistons before inserting the wrist pin. No food at this point though. Yes, it's small, so baking a whole chainsaw is out of the question.

an old kettle, an old iron, an old hot plate, a few old pots and pans, and several other old kitchen things get a new lease on life in the shop.

spatulas, wooden spoons, etc..

eventually it all gets purged, but only after Ive totally ruined it.

 

[ken morgan]

Well I had a couple weeks to think about it, and this morning I put a second coat on those case halves. I think it turned out well, but we will see once it is done baking - it looked good going on, and no visible wrinkling. I will post a pic when it's done drying.

CJ, where did you buy the matching paint? I have a couple of saws that will get broken down and cleaned up in the next year or so and would like to be able to repaint them as well.

 

[Sepia]

CJ, where did you buy the matching paint? I have a couple of saws that will get broken down and cleaned up in the next year or so and would like to be able to repaint them as well.

I bought the paint from my local Husqvarna dealer - it is genuine Husqvarna paint, and it isn't cheap! I think I paid $28cdn for 1 can!

Here are a couple pics of the freshly painted cases. The lighting isn't the best so the color looks off, but it is an exact match to my new oem top cover.