Reading the chip

[jwholden]

I've been messing around with sharpening the chain by hand and made an interesting observation today. I'd love to hear what the pro's have to say.

If the saw is cutting 'good' and the chips are thick the saw is sharp but depth gauges are set too low. You also notice a lot of torn wood where the chain comes out of the cut.

If the saw is cutting 'great' and the chips are coming out thin and stringy you have a sharp saw and the depth gauges set correctly. Where the chain comes out of the wood does not look torn.

I think I took my depth guages down to far and after a couple sharpening performance is getting better, as the depth gauges get shallower.

I made this observation using a stihl 020 with Picco yellow chain. I have been using an oregon file guide, the best $8 I ever spent.

 

[mtngun]

I think I took my depth guages down to far and after a couple sharpening performance is getting better, as the depth gauges get shallower.

The rakers do appear to be a little low.

 

[woodyman]

Did you do alittle more to the raker than just file the top down?

 

[jwholden]

After reading other posts on the site I have been rounding off the raker when I lower it.

 

[woodyman]

After reading other posts on the site I have been rounding off the raker when I lower it.

Thats what I thought,I do mine the same.It looks like you filed some off the top sides of the raker too or do I need glasses.Last July it took me 3 tries to pass my eye test for my driving license renewal:jawdrop:I also take a small file and clean out the gullet on the back side of the raker.Every little bit helps when you want fast.

 

[woodyman]

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134001&d=1271814757 I would like to see this pic again at the same angle with a fresh file job on it.

 

[jwholden]

Uh oh, that was a fresh file job. If you take a look at the gullet you can see where I cleaned it out, there is a half moon of metal missing there. Not sure it is right or wrong, but I gave it a shot.

That chain is my first chain without the safety links. It is sooooo much easier to sharpen than the chain with the safety links. I just have to keep my head on while cutting.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[jwholden]

Attached is a photo showing where I filed to clean out the gullet. I welcome any feedback, positive or negative.

 

[woodyman]

Uh oh, that was a fresh file job. If you take a look at the gullet you can see where I cleaned it out, there is a half moon of metal missing there. Not sure it is right or wrong, but I gave it a shot.

That chain is my first chain without the safety links. It is sooooo much easier to sharpen than the chain with the safety links. I just have to keep my head on while cutting.

Thanks for the feedback.

It must have been the angle.I see your gullet filing,I still have to get a smaller file to do mine.Your chain looks good

 

[CTYank]

Attached is a photo showing where I filed to clean out the gullet. I welcome any feedback, positive or negative.

Let's see if I understand you correctly. Are you sharpening the cutter with the file in a relatively high position, then dropping the file to remove metal just above the straps?

I can't figure why you'd be doing that (the 2-step); maybe your file is too small?

I find that a file diam. of 5/32" on low-prof or 7/32" on std. prof. 3/8"-pitch chains, with the file held so that ~1/5 of the diam of the file is above the cutter, files the cutters so they are sharp & durable, and almost kisses the straps.

The part of approaching the straps is immaterial here, IMHO. What's important is getting the top cutter angle (looking from side) right, and getting the side cutter face close to vertical. (Neither hooked nor laid-back.)

 

[DangerTree]

There is no need to clean anything out! If you are using the proper size file. After you have pooched the new chain where you are seeing rough edges ( in sunlight works best ) file 1 stroke off each raker not 2 or 4 just 1. Then file chain until the rough edge disappears. Try to keep even pressure on the file. no need to make every tooth the same unless it`s real bad or what you are doing is not sharpening but resetting! Totally different thing here boys. It is also a myth that you must round off the rakers, did they come rounded off from the factory No so why would you do it. It is wasting time. Furthermore when you round them off it is difficult for a novice filer to tell how much was filed off. If you look at a filed raker top it is a flat surface right. The length of the surface helps to visually gauge the depth. Now point the bar tip at your face and look under the cutters down the length of the bar do you see the space between the raker and the cutter it should be about as thick as a finger nail no more. If the rakers are over filed no big deal the next time you polish up it will be good. If the saw is over powered for the bar and I am bucking I will purposely over file the rakers to improve cutting speed it`s more aggressive. The main problem with that is it`s sticky when falling. The only time you loose cutting speed is when the saw looses RPMs because of excessive drag from too much chain or not enough power. Or you are crappy at filing.

 

[redoakneck]

Try brushing all the filings off before the pic. Be sure to brsh or blow those away before you zoom them into your clutch housing and into you you bar groove.


Good job, only gets better with practice.

 

[ray benson]

Try to maintain original profile when lowering rakers.

 

[stevejr33]

it looks to me like he is trying to square file his chain. in witch case you do need to clean out the gullets with a round file.