rebuilding husqvarna 359

[lylechief]

I have a husqvarna 359 that I will be rebuilding. I got this saw for a very good price and knew it had a scored cylinder and piston. I am going to be putting on either a Meteor or OEM cylinder and piston and am leaning toward Meteor. I will be doing a base gasket delete and am looking at replacing the muffler or modding the old one myself. The saw I have is a EPA saw. What are your thoughts about the baileys mufflers are they any good or should I just mod the oem muffler.

 

[huskyespañol]

Modifica el tuyo es facil

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

From what I have seen- the Baileys muffler options are the same as most any AM muffler you are going to find anywhere, especially the bay of E.
At the end of the day, chainsaw mufflers are a simple box to restrict some noise and direct spent gasses somewhere appropriate (unless the EPA has a hand and they are choked to near death) - the aftermarket simple boxes do this just fine and are WAY less restricted than your EPA model on your saw.
Aftermarket mufflers USUALLY have no spark arrestor screens- may or may not be an issue, depending on where you cut.

Just be sure you discover and fix whatever caused to topend to fry. The 359 is a nice saw, probably the best 60cc class saw of the era they were released- fix it up well and it will serve you for many seasons to come.

 

[lylechief]

I believe it was straight gassed. But I am replacing the intake boot and clamp also

 

[J D]

I'd look at cleaning up your original cylinder, you might be pleasantly surprised how well it comes up

 

[lylechief]

I tried it. It still has gouges after cleaning up the transfer.

 

[JJT]

I have a used oem piston and cylinder from a jonsered 2156/ husqvarna 357 I could part with. No scoring. Both in good shape. Guy said it all of a sudden lost compression. He said to go ahead and order and put on a new top end. Come to find out, the bolts that hold the cylinder down came loose.

 

[lylechief]

I have a used oem piston and cylinder from a jonsered 2156/ husqvarna 357 I could part with. No scoring. Both in good shape. Guy said it all of a sudden lost compression. He said to go ahead and order and put on a new top end. Come to find out, the bolts that hold the cylinder down came loose.

I will think about it. Great offer. Would you happen to have pics and a price in mind?

 

[MHHPartner]

At the end of the day, chainsaw mufflers are a simple box to restrict some noise and direct spent gasses somewhere appropriate (unless the EPA has a hand and they are choked to near death) - the aftermarket simple boxes do this just fine and are WAY less restricted than your EPA model on your saw.
Aftermarket mufflers USUALLY have no spark arrestor screens- may or may not be an issue, depending on where you cut.

New to chain saw mods, so forgive me if this is a dumb question or been discussed elsewhere.
Everyone just seems to be going after reduced back pressure with their muffler mods. But I remember from my 2-stroke dirt bike days, that the expansion chamber volume and "stinger" on the end were critical to maximizing power, having to do with pressure waves and their effects on filling and emptying the cylinder. We called it "getting on the pipe" when you hit that magical RPM band that the exhaust was tuned for.
I also remember a pro rider losing a race because the stinger fell off mid race and it cut his power.
Is this not an issue with chain saws? Is less back pressure always better?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

New to chain saw mods, so forgive me if this is a dumb question or been discussed elsewhere.
Everyone just seems to be going after reduced back pressure with their muffler mods. But I remember from my 2-stroke dirt bike days, that the expansion chamber volume and "stinger" on the end were critical to maximizing power, having to do with pressure waves and their effects on filling and emptying the cylinder. We called it "getting on the pipe" when you hit that magical RPM band that the exhaust was tuned for.
I also remember a pro rider losing a race because the stinger fell off mid race and it cut his power.
Is this not an issue with chain saws? Is less back pressure always better?

Yep, you have a lot of pipe to play with on a bike and can do wonderful things along that length- but chainsaws are not as demanding, they create their power inside the cylinder and that is it- no so much play room with powerbands and ability to alter things post ignition. A good 80cc 2 stroke bike kept in the powerband used to scare the bejeebers out of me, an 80cc chainsaw is easy!
But, in saying that- this kind of thing is why you see pipe exhausts on race saws.
All you have to do with a chainsaw that has had the exit increased is to tune the saw to the new conditions.

 

[MHHPartner]

Yep, you have a lot of pipe to play with on a bike and can do wonderful things along that length- but chainsaws are not as demanding, they create their power inside the cylinder and that is it- no so much play room with powerbands and ability to alter things post ignition. A good 80cc 2 stroke bike kept in the powerband used to scare the bejeebers out of me, an 80cc chainsaw is easy!
But, in saying that- this kind of thing is why you see pipe exhausts on race saws.
All you have to do with a chainsaw that has had the exit increased is to tune the saw to the new conditions.

Thanks for the response and explanation. I appreciate it!