Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Definitely the Carter carb. Whether it's the ND or NRD, you'll have to remove it and check the metering diaphragm cover. If you have the means, a Super 754 carb (really, any of the HLs found on this series) will swap. Problem with Carters is there are zero parts available. Any diaphragms and gaskets will be repros. I junked a Carter on my Farmall Super C tractor due to a lack of parts.
 
Definitely the Carter carb. Whether it's the ND or NRD, you'll have to remove it and check the metering diaphragm cover. If you have the means, a Super 754 carb (really, any of the HLs found on this series) will swap. Problem with Carters is there are zero parts available. Any diaphragms and gaskets will be repros. I junked a Carter on my Farmall Super C tractor due to a lack of parts.
they where saying abt using the nrd and punching a hole in one of the diaphrams to get it to work i wonder what that meant besides maybe it does work
 
View attachment 948473D009 mount converted to Remington.
Good morning maintenance supervisor. It looks like you cut the tail mount on that d009 bar is that correct? And you just enlarged the oil port to make it work? Dang suoer 660 I got the bar it came with is .404/.058. Geesh! Anyway the bar is toast. Looks like you have to buy a basket case saw for 125$ on ebay just to get a bar for a remington saw in .404/.063. Not sure the wife would appreciate any more saws showing up but I think I could sneak a bar in lol. Just can't find a .404/.063 D096/D196 bar anywhere :dumb2: I think i found a 27" oregon hard tip but 150$ I mine as well buy a saw just to have some possible parts on hand.
 
Any tips and tricks for removing the clutch drum on a remington super 660? I seen on here other saws you have to block the piston with a piece of wood. Im guessing on this saw the bottom handle has to be removed to remove the muffler to access the piston to block. I'm trying to convert to 3/8-.050 sprocket. Looks like I will have to fabricate some type of spanner wrench unless there is one readily available? Bars for this mount are hard to come by. Thanks guys.
 
Yeah i put the piston right above the exhaust port so it closes it off then put recoil rope down the plug hole letting it ravel on top of one another until full for both flywheel and clutch put a little heat to the clutch after trying it once if it doesn't go
 
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I just now discovered the Helicoil.
 
Does anyone know how to remove that brass fitting on a Carter NRD carburetor off a remington super 660? Its on the top of carb or is the gasket just stuck on it. I have the diagram for the carb its not showing me much on it it Thanks that. Thanks.
 

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Good morning maintenance supervisor. It looks like you cut the tail mount on that d009 bar is that correct? And you just enlarged the oil port to make it work? Dang suoer 660 I got the bar it came with is .404/.058. Geesh! Anyway the bar is toast. Looks like you have to buy a basket case saw for 125$ on ebay just to get a bar for a remington saw in .404/.063. Not sure the wife would appreciate any more saws showing up but I think I could sneak a bar in lol. Just can't find a .404/.063 D096/D196 bar anywhere :dumb2: I think i found a 27" oregon hard tip but 150$ I mine as well buy a saw just to have some possible parts on hand.
Yes its a D009 mount elongated and about 1/2 mm filed off each side of the slot.
 
Block the piston however you can.

Chuck two twist drills up in the bench vice to match the holes and turn the saw, hold the clutch. [emoji106]

On all the Bantams I've done, Remington helpfully provided a hole in the case behind the flywheel. Find a 1/4" diameter something, insert into this hole so it engages a notch on the back of the flywheel. This will lock the crank. Then, do as Carl says to unscrew the clutch, opposite hand threads. I've put 2 pin punches in the clutch then used a pry bar between them to spin it. Or, make yourself a custom spanner.
 

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