Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Keeping the oil holes unclogged is a little more difficult on the old Remington roller nose, seems like the gap at the nose lets alot more debris in the groove.
I would agree. Seems like the nose is usually. 063 even on .058 bars the .063 fits. Plus that little cutaway from bar to roller tip like you said let's contamination in.
 
Is it true that there's a hole (I can see a hole) that you can put a metal dowel or pin it to lock the flywheel on 754 to remove the clutch? I have some d096/196 bars for 3/8 .050. Seems risky if clutch is hard to come off that I would shear the flywheel key off. Might be easier to run those bars and chain. Not sure if it was you or not that said to put rope thru spark plug hole to stop rotation on saw to remove clutch assembly.
 
Is it true that there's a hole (I can see a hole) that you can put a metal dowel or pin it to lock the flywheel on 754 to remove the clutch? I have some d096/196 bars for 3/8 .050. Seems risky if clutch is hard to come off that I would shear the flywheel key off. Might be easier to run those bars and chain. Not sure if it was you or not that said to put rope thru spark plug hole to stop rotation on saw to remove clutch assembly.
Rope through the spark plug hole is how I got mine off, but that was the most stubborn clutch to remove. Almost beat me!
There's a fairly cheap spanner/gland wrench on Amazon that will fit the Remington clutch if you grind a little material from the nubs. The adjustable spanner makes it a whole lot easier to remove.
That being said you can always get a power match Oregon bar and swap out the 3/8ths nose on it for a .404 nose.
 
Not sure what they were thinking back in the 60's??? Not sure how the b and c got oiled? 🤔
There should be a slot in the bottom of the bar rail for bar oil to travel up to the chain.
Having the correct bar plate is key to getting the oil to go where you want. I had to make a special solid plate for my McCulloch when I was using the multi-mount bar.
 
Thanks! Yea its crazy to say the least. Effective on some saws not so much on others in the way of oiling goes. On a lighter note. Not sure if good idea or not but I solved a kinked fuel line on the super 754 by installing a spring in the line.
 

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I know your probably real busy maintenance supervisor but would a piece of .125 rubber cut to fit the guidebar plate on the saw to seal the oil and push it to the upper oil rail to catch the bar oil ports work? Just an idea??? Looks like the upper lines up with oil ports. Not sure if I'm reinventing the wheel or just am completely clueless on stuff.
 

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I know your probably real busy maintenance supervisor but would a piece of .125 rubber cut to fit the guidebar plate on the saw to seal the oil and push it to the upper oil rail to catch the bar oil ports work? Just an idea??? Looks like the upper lines up with oil ports. Not sure if I'm reinventing the wheel or just am completely clueless on stuff.
Your thumb will immediately tell you if it works or not.
The clutch cover side of the bar is what really needs blocked ,so the oil does get pumped into the adjustment hole only to run out the cover side.
 
Thanks! After installing it I felt a sense of stupidity since the material is .125 that much may make the chain, sprocket, and bar alignment off. Your the best! Thanks for sharing your remington knowledge with me. Have a great day. :numberone: your headed for supervisor of the year in my book!
 
Is it true that there's a hole (I can see a hole) that you can put a metal dowel or pin it to lock the flywheel on 754 to remove the clutch? I have some d096/196 bars for 3/8 .050. Seems risky if clutch is hard to come off that I would shear the flywheel key off. Might be easier to run those bars and chain. Not sure if it was you or not that said to put rope thru spark plug hole to stop rotation on saw to remove clutch assembly.
That hole is how Remington says to lock the crank. Of course, that assumes you are using the proper spanner to unscrew the clutch and not trying to hammer it off. I use a couple of pin punches that fit the clutch snugly and twist it off with a bar between. My 754 has a little cap plugging that hole in the case.
 
That hole is how Remington says to lock the crank. Of course, that assumes you are using the proper spanner to unscrew the clutch and not trying to hammer it off. I use a couple of pin punches that fit the clutch snugly and twist it off with a bar between. My 754 has a little cap plugging that hole in the case.
Thanks! My cap must be missing. Is it crucial to have that cap to prevent debris from getting into the flywheel area?
 
Gonna see how this works for the oiler. Gasket material on cover some of bar
 

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Here are a few pics of my Remington SL-9/Wards Power Kraft 2.8. It has a neat little 12" Remington roller-nose bar on it. It's complete and unbroken/uncorroded. The P/C are roached however.

Also has a couple 'bites' taken out of the handlebar. Looks like that was done with another chainsaw somehow (happened before I got the saw). I've decided I won't ever get around to devoting the time/$$$ to getting it going again, so I'm shipping it off to Daddy66. It's a cool little saw. Makes me think of an XL12 'reduced' by about 1/3.

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Just bought 1 today, the sparkplug wire is toast hoping that's all it is.
 

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Has anyone heard from woodslasher? I haven't seen any posts or reactions lately. Hope the guy is doing ok. With all the craziness with weather and virus stuff going on I hope he is well and good.
 
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