Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

[67L36Driver]

Jeff: You do have an IPL for the SL-9, Right?

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Remington SL-9.pdf

Part #1 (65018, Torrington roller thrust bearing) should be inside against the crank counterweight cheek followed by #51 (65036, Torrington thrust race) which bears against the crankcase cover #11.

Torrington inner race #50 should be 1/32" longer than the clutch drum needle bearing #76-1.

 

[blunovagal]

Old Mal tool co. chainsaw

I have an old Mal tool co. saw, model #73, Assembly#28860, Serial#648509, I would like to find out what year this saw was manufactured in. I have pictures I could e-mail if someone has some info,Thank you, Jessica

 

[Jeff Lary]

Jeff: You do have an IPL for the SL-9, Right?

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Remington SL-9.pdf

Part #1 (65018, Torrington roller thrust bearing) should be inside against the crank counterweight cheek followed by #51 (65036, Torrington thrust race) which bears against the crankcase cover #11.

Torrington inner race #50 should be 1/32" longer than the clutch drum needle bearing #76-1.

Yes thanks I guess I have the bearing in the correct location according to the IPL someone of you sent to me.I put seals on both sides and I only had one of these thrust bearings on the pto side? So I dont know what to say on that front I guess. On the flywheel side there was only a felt washer cant remember if it went on the outside of the fly wheel housing or the inside now but I put it back where it came from.
As for the chain turning when you pull it over I got that fixed this afternoon.I went to bed and thought about it and decided that I had over tighented the clutch nut.So i looked in the ipl and sure enought is says after installing the clutch drum place hardened washer on shaft then the nut.Thigten it till the washer feels tight but the drum needs to freely spin. So I loosend it about a half turn or so and the drum spun good.

But now there is a new problem it will run for a while and i try to adj it but first it runs at like 100 rpm's then 300 then 100 then 200 then 100 then it will eventually stall at that point the air box starts to show fuel in the try .Then if you crank it over the fuel comes out the muffler, so it is flooding itself.I tried to adj the meatering arm it seemd to be a little low so i bent it up to just above flush.Then the same occered only worse flooding .So I knew I went the wrong way,.. so I bent it down a little below flush better but still flooding. You can see gas filling the air box tray.So I guess it needs a carb kit what do you guys think? The carb is a tiltson HS107A 32.I do appreceiate your help a bunch sorry so wordy.

Btw You guys are correct there are 2 thrust bearings just like you said there were only I did not go deep enough to see the one on the Flywheel side.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Jeff: You do have an IPL for the SL-9, Right?

http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Remington SL-9.pdf

Part #1 (65018, Torrington roller thrust bearing) should be inside against the crank counterweight cheek followed by #51 (65036, Torrington thrust race) which bears against the crankcase cover #11.

Torrington inner race #50 should be 1/32" longer than the clutch drum needle bearing #76-1.

Ihad somthing else so I am printing this off as well you guys are ,....( Saw Gods Extrodinare ):msp_thumbsup:

 

[dff110]

But now there is a new problem it will run for a while and i try to adj it but first it runs at like 100 rpm's then 300 then 100 then 200 then 100 then it will eventually stall at that point the air box starts to show fuel in the try .Then if you crank it over the fuel comes out the muffler, so it is flooding itself.I tried to adj the meatering arm it seemd to be a little low so i bent it up to just above flush.Then the same occered only worse flooding .So I knew I went the wrong way,.. so I bent it down a little below flush better but still flooding. You can see gas filling the air box tray.So I guess it needs a carb kit what do you guys think? The carb is a tiltson HS107A 32.I do appreceiate your help a bunch sorry so wordy.

I would deffinately put a carb kit on it. they are cheap enough, and help a lot. sounds like there could be a piece of dirt stuck in the carb somewhere, possibly under the needle not allowing it to close all the way. So I always make sure to spray everything out very well with carb cleaner before installing the new parts. The first carb I ever rebuilt, I had that same problem. Turned out, when rebuilding it, I installed the lever that moves the needle up and down upside down, and it was constantly flooding.

I have also been told that when I saw sits for a while, there is a small ball inside the carb somewhere that can get gummed up, and cause it to flood. Good luck getting it figured out.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I dont much like the sound of Good Luck finding the issue,sounds scary to me.

 

[sawdust21]

Have this Super 754 up and running. Thought I would add it to the thread. This is officially the loudest saw in my collection, sorry Homelite 17. You have been dethrone

[video=youtube_share;GblES4WlVWQ]http://youtu.be/GblES4WlVWQ[/video]

Gotta love the 754. I have 7 of them. They make beautiful restoration pieces

 

[sawdust21]

Super 990

OK....It'll take me a little while to get around to it; but I'll have a beautiful 990 for all you Remington fans to slobber over. She's all there but the clutch cover, and will make an eye-popping restoration piece.

Stay tuned for future developments. I can hardly wait myself.

 

[dff110]

Sl-9a

I got my SL-9A back together and running today. Also learned a very important lesson, and probably a rookie one:
-When you have a chainsaw total stripped apart and cleaned, don't be a cheap ass, and decide not to replace the Fuel line and filter just because it looks ok.

haha Live and learn.

But my main point for this post is:
In the picture there is a small brass piece inside the Carberator box (I'm assuming it's a vent for the gas tank). When I tilted the saw on it's side to work on the bar and chain, Gas ran out of this. Is this just a design flaw, or am I missing something?

 

[Nardoo]

What remington is this?

Hello guys, not many Remingtons around these parts but I picked this one up recently. Only have this pic and I won't pick it up for three weeks so can't tell you anything about it. I am a bit confused about the starter and the Bantam tag. Is it a frankensaw or is it the real thing. Help please.

Al.

 

[Jeff Lary]

My SL 9 has the same rig i figure it is a vent? I do have a question though I hope this is not a stupid as it sounds but what fuel line? I admit I did not look into the tank but there is none on the carb just the chrome reed valve thing.
Mine will not run evenly.It will rev and idle at about 2000 rpm but even then the carb box starts to get a fuel build up in it.I have ordered a carb kit and I really hope that fixs the problem.

 

[dff110]

My SL 9 has the same rig i figure it is a vent? I do have a question though I hope this is not a stupid as it sounds but what fuel line? I admit I did not look into the tank but there is none on the carb just the chrome reed valve thing.
Mine will not run evenly.It will rev and idle at about 2000 rpm but even then the carb box starts to get a fuel build up in it.I have ordered a carb kit and I really hope that fixs the problem.

If you take off the starter, and fan wheel, there is a plate there with 10 -12 small flat head screws. Remove all them, disconect the bar oil line, and remove the cover. (Empty out the gas and oil first). This reveals the inside of the gas and oil tank. The gas line and filter are one piece. Just conected to fitting next to where the reed valve is. You could be getting gas in the carb box either through that vent, or from a bad gasket between the carb and reed valve. I don't know much about it, but the reed valve could be bad, causing too much fuel to come in. The problem I am having is dirt is comming from the gas line and blocking up the screen in the carb.

 

[67L36Driver]

I got my SL-9A back together and running today. Also learned a very important lesson, and probably a rookie one:
-When you have a chainsaw total stripped apart and cleaned, don't be a cheap ass, and decide not to replace the Fuel line and filter just because it looks ok.

haha Live and learn.

But my main point for this post is:
In the picture there is a small brass piece inside the Carberator box (I'm assuming it's a vent for the gas tank). When I tilted the saw on it's side to work on the bar and chain, Gas ran out of this. Is this just a design flaw, or am I missing something?

Fuel tank vent. Remington #65708. Most times they are plugged up with crud. You can sub. an early Homelite XL-101 or Craftsman/Roper tank vent for it.

If you find any new ones, I can use a couple.

 

[Warped5]

Hello guys, not many Remingtons around these parts but I picked this one up recently. Only have this pic and I won't pick it up for three weeks so can't tell you anything about it. I am a bit confused about the starter and the Bantam tag. Is it a frankensaw or is it the real thing. Help please.

Al.

From the little I know ... It is a Bantam model and the starter appears correct. There were variations of the Bantam produced, I think all were in the nieghborhood of 80cc. That saw is actually larger than you'd think by looking at the picture; Remington had a habit of putting shorter bars on their saws.

The real gurus will be along to add info .... good luck with your new saw!

 

[dff110]

Fuel tank vent. Remington #65708. Most times they are plugged up with crud. You can sub. an early Homelite XL-101 or Craftsman/Roper tank vent for it.

If you find any new ones, I can use a couple.

So the vent being clogged with dirt causes it to leak? Can you simply clean it out?

 

[Jeff Lary]

If you take off the starter, and fan wheel, there is a plate there with 10 -12 small flat head screws. Remove all them, disconect the bar oil line, and remove the cover. (Empty out the gas and oil first). This reveals the inside of the gas and oil tank. The gas line and filter are one piece. Just conected to fitting next to where the reed valve is. You could be getting gas in the carb box either through that vent, or from a bad gasket between the carb and reed valve. I don't know much about it, but the reed valve could be bad, causing too much fuel to come in. The problem I am having is dirt is comming from the gas line and blocking up the screen in the carb.

Ok thanks I will look her over I think the problem is the gasket .

 

[67L36Driver]

So the vent being clogged with dirt causes it to leak? Can you simply clean it out?

I pried the tiny screens off one and found a black plastic disc on the tank end. Like a flapper valve I suppose.

Just got some Homie duckbills in the mail yesterday. Drilled the fitting from the carb. box end 5/32" diameter just deep enuff so one would fit. A tiny dab of rubber cement and we should be good to go.

 

[67L36Driver]

Hello guys, not many Remingtons around these parts but I picked this one up recently. Only have this pic and I won't pick it up for three weeks so can't tell you anything about it. I am a bit confused about the starter and the Bantam tag. Is it a frankensaw or is it the real thing. Help please.

Al.

From the color scheme I would guess a Super 660 maybe. All are 82cc except the 754's at 88cc.

What carb., Carter ND or a Tilly? Chain pitch varies on the big ones between .404 and 7/16".

Super 75A looks the same (left hand starter) only it is off white with pale blue carb. lid.

 

[Jim in the Wood]

Question about how to disassemble gears of Remington 754 G

I have a 754 G that I am trying to bring back from the dead. In the gearcase to the chaindrive, I see that I've got to take the gears out in order to get at the clutch. Any idea how I do this? I'd prefer to know the proper way so that I don't break something that might be difficult to replace. I assume that the shaft that the chain drive bolts to unbolts to allow the gear and shaft to be removed, but I just don't know. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
Jim

 

[Nardoo]

From the color scheme I would guess a Super 660 maybe. All are 82cc except the 754's at 88cc.

What carb., Carter ND or a Tilly? Chain pitch varies on the big ones between .404 and 7/16".

Super 75A looks the same (left hand starter) only it is off white with pale blue carb. lid.

Thank you sir. When I collect it I will post up some more information. This will be my first Remington (aside from a couple of 1100 12 guages).

Al.