Me again! Can I put a MS180 jug onto my MS170 chainsaw. If I have to buy a P&C anyway. I know many people talk of replacing jugs with the next size up.
Thanks,
Lee
Thanks,
Lee
I never use acid any more. If a jug has a nick or scratch in the plating the acid will ruin it in short order. By just sanding the aluminum off I have been able to save jugs that acid would have destroyed.
You will have to sand even if you use acid.
What kind and what grit of paper do you use? I run old MAC 800s which have a matched cylinder and crankcase so if you ruin the cylinder you also have a worthless case. I've used acid twice. Both times there was missing plating under the thickest aluminum transfer so no more acid for me. My project saw is on hold waiting for an instructional thread like this one as I don't want to just jump in with sand paper and sand through the plating. Thanks, RonI never use acid any more. If a jug has a nick or scratch in the plating the acid will ruin it in short order. By just sanding the aluminum off I have been able to save jugs that acid would have destroyed.
What kind and what grit of paper do you use? I run old MAC 800s which have a matched cylinder and crankcase so if you ruin the cylinder you also have a worthless case. I've used acid twice. Both times there was missing plating under the thickest aluminum transfer so no more acid for me. My project saw is on hold waiting for an instructional thread like this one as I don't want to just jump in with sand paper and sand through the plating. Thanks, Ron
You'd have to be pretty rough and probably with a machine a some serious grit (like a hone) to get through the plating, unless of course, there was already some plating damage. In that case, you'd need to be careful with sanding too aggressively same as you would about getting acid where ya didn't want it.
The coarsest paper I've ever used was 220, but that was by hand and also in conjunction with using acid. I then typically graduate to finer grades until I'm happy with the look and feel, then use a Scotchbrite pad rigged into an eye-bolt and chucked into a drill for the final once over honing. (The Wiggs Hone)
Then it gets a serious bath in Blue Dawn, rinsed real well, and dried before seeing a light coating of oil and either bagged for storage or put back into service. To me, that last part is real important since any aluminum residue is just gonna heat up and melt again in a heartbeat and ruin your work just as bad as getting acid on raw aluminum in the first place...'cept only AFTER a whole lot of hard work! (Ask me how I know.)
But on those 800's...are they plated cylinders? Just curious and Acres doesn't say for the 800.
You'd have to be pretty rough and probably with a machine and some serious grit (like a hone) to get through the plating, unless of course, there was already some plating damage. In that case, you'd need to be careful with sanding too aggressively same as you would about getting acid where ya didn't want it.
The coarsest paper I've ever used was 220, but that was by hand and also in conjunction with using acid. I then typically graduate to finer grades until I'm happy with the look and feel, then use a Scotchbrite pad rigged into an eye-bolt and chucked into a drill for the final once over honing. (The Wiggs Hone)
Then it gets a serious bath in Blue Dawn, rinsed real well, and dried before seeing a light coating of oil and either bagged for storage or put back into service. To me, that last part is real important since any aluminum residue is just gonna heat up and melt again in a heartbeat and ruin your work just as bad as getting acid on raw aluminum in the first place...'cept only AFTER a whole lot of hard work! (Ask me how I know.)
But on those 800's...are they plated cylinders? Just curious and Acres doesn't say for the 800.
I just spent 10 minutes cleaning this cylinder....
Pogo..and chance of a pic of the wiggs eyebolt engineering feat???
I luvs me some redneck genius.
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