Removing aluminum transfer without using acid

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
6,933
Location
Reportedly in the Area
I never use acid any more. If a jug has a nick or scratch in the plating the acid will ruin it in short order. By just sanding the aluminum off I have been able to save jugs that acid would have destroyed.

Especially if the nicks or scratches would otherwise have simply been incidental to the revival of the cylinder below the travel of the rings in the first place. But acid is still a very viable solution to effectively and efficiently removing aluminum transfer when applied judiciously and with patience.

But don't forget ta take a big ol' whiff outta the jug and splash a bunch in your eyes first so's ya can really tune in on what ur doin', ain't it?:dizzy:
 
leecopland

leecopland

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Oct 30, 2011
Messages
1,419
Location
huntsville ontario
This saw started and ran pretty well before I removed the aluminum galling on the cylinder so here is what I'm thinking now. I have a new piston and I have the time so I think I'll put it back together and see how it runs. If that doesn't work I can still do the replacement P&C and all I've lost is one cheap piston and some time while I will have had more experience in saw rebuilding. It's a long winter and we are already up to our butts in snow.

Regards,

Lee
 
rwoods

rwoods

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
7,197
Location
Tennessee
I never use acid any more. If a jug has a nick or scratch in the plating the acid will ruin it in short order. By just sanding the aluminum off I have been able to save jugs that acid would have destroyed.
What kind and what grit of paper do you use? I run old MAC 800s which have a matched cylinder and crankcase so if you ruin the cylinder you also have a worthless case. I've used acid twice. Both times there was missing plating under the thickest aluminum transfer so no more acid for me. My project saw is on hold waiting for an instructional thread like this one as I don't want to just jump in with sand paper and sand through the plating. Thanks, Ron
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
6,933
Location
Reportedly in the Area
What kind and what grit of paper do you use? I run old MAC 800s which have a matched cylinder and crankcase so if you ruin the cylinder you also have a worthless case. I've used acid twice. Both times there was missing plating under the thickest aluminum transfer so no more acid for me. My project saw is on hold waiting for an instructional thread like this one as I don't want to just jump in with sand paper and sand through the plating. Thanks, Ron

You'd have to be pretty rough and probably with a machine and some serious grit (like a hone) to get through the plating, unless of course, there was already some plating damage. In that case, you'd need to be careful with sanding too aggressively same as you would about getting acid where ya didn't want it.

The coarsest paper I've ever used was 220, but that was by hand and also in conjunction with using acid. I then typically graduate to finer grades until I'm happy with the look and feel, then use a Scotchbrite pad rigged into an eye-bolt and chucked into a drill for the final once over honing. (The Wiggs Hone:rock:)

Then it gets a serious bath in Blue Dawn, rinsed real well, and dried before seeing a light coating of oil and either bagged for storage or put back into service. To me, that last part is real important since any aluminum residue is just gonna heat up and melt again in a heartbeat and ruin your work just as bad as getting acid on raw aluminum in the first place...'cept only AFTER a whole lot of hard work! (Ask me how I know.)

But on those 800's...are they plated cylinders? Just curious and Acres doesn't say for the 800.
 
Last edited:
angelo c
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
5,934
Location
Peoples Republic of North Jersey
You'd have to be pretty rough and probably with a machine a some serious grit (like a hone) to get through the plating, unless of course, there was already some plating damage. In that case, you'd need to be careful with sanding too aggressively same as you would about getting acid where ya didn't want it.

The coarsest paper I've ever used was 220, but that was by hand and also in conjunction with using acid. I then typically graduate to finer grades until I'm happy with the look and feel, then use a Scotchbrite pad rigged into an eye-bolt and chucked into a drill for the final once over honing. (The Wiggs Hone:rock:)

Then it gets a serious bath in Blue Dawn, rinsed real well, and dried before seeing a light coating of oil and either bagged for storage or put back into service. To me, that last part is real important since any aluminum residue is just gonna heat up and melt again in a heartbeat and ruin your work just as bad as getting acid on raw aluminum in the first place...'cept only AFTER a whole lot of hard work! (Ask me how I know.)

But on those 800's...are they plated cylinders? Just curious and Acres doesn't say for the 800.


Pogo..and chance of a pic of the wiggs eyebolt engineering feat???
I luvs me some redneck genius.
 
sachsmo

sachsmo

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 24, 2006
Messages
6,210
Location
Indiana
I hit it with muratic then hand sand with some 320 and water.

I've put a few in the bridgport and used brown scotchbrite and some mothers polish.

3 hours later you get a shiny new jug (sometimes)
 
rwoods

rwoods

Addicted to ArboristSite
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
7,197
Location
Tennessee
You'd have to be pretty rough and probably with a machine and some serious grit (like a hone) to get through the plating, unless of course, there was already some plating damage. In that case, you'd need to be careful with sanding too aggressively same as you would about getting acid where ya didn't want it.

The coarsest paper I've ever used was 220, but that was by hand and also in conjunction with using acid. I then typically graduate to finer grades until I'm happy with the look and feel, then use a Scotchbrite pad rigged into an eye-bolt and chucked into a drill for the final once over honing. (The Wiggs Hone:rock:)

Then it gets a serious bath in Blue Dawn, rinsed real well, and dried before seeing a light coating of oil and either bagged for storage or put back into service. To me, that last part is real important since any aluminum residue is just gonna heat up and melt again in a heartbeat and ruin your work just as bad as getting acid on raw aluminum in the first place...'cept only AFTER a whole lot of hard work! (Ask me how I know.)

But on those 800's...are they plated cylinders? Just curious and Acres doesn't say for the 800.

Thanks for the info. The 800s are plated. I assume with chrome like the earlier plated MACs. Ron
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
6,933
Location
Reportedly in the Area
Pogo..and chance of a pic of the wiggs eyebolt engineering feat???
I luvs me some redneck genius.

Here ya go...

WiggsHone.JPG

BTW, I knew there were some integrity issues with the plating before I got into this cylinder with the acid. Just took it easy and was very careful. Also did LOTS of hand sanding just to be safe.

AlmostDone.JPG
 
Top