removing/identifying carb jonsered 535 or . . .

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archibaldtuttle

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so i'm taking the oft repeated advice to service the carb on my recalcitrant jonsereds 535.

Easy access to the diaphragm with one screw without taking the carb out of the saw, but from other threads I've garnered that the actual model # of the carb is going to be on the body near the mixture screws which is obscured without removal. Other than identification, it looks as if I were careful pulling the mixture screws, I could just about flush it out with air and carb cleaner in place.

Haven't found any listing for carbs on Jonsereds models that might help me narrow it down without getting an identification off the carb itself (which I understand is the gold standard). But if I can narrow it down to a couple choices I could order a couple kits and see which one fits, but if the choices are myriad ...

... or, if I'm missing the importance of getting to some part of the carb that is inaccessible while installed for a good cleaning then my next problem is that I'm mystified by the method of attachment of the carb to the cylinder. It would almost seem that the carb is installed the way it is so it can be more regularly accessed, cleaned and serviced without complete removal, which is sensible given the prevalance of carb issues generally, esp. when saws sit. But if I do need to pull the carb, either for identification or service, I've hit another dead end.

It seems that the body of the carb is molded to a rubber boot and that boot is secured on a short horn coming out of the engine but I can't observe a traditional clamp of any sort. There appears to be a wire molded into the boot that just has very short ends emerging that are twisted around each other almost like a bread tie.

Maybe this is actually more robust spring steel than I imagine and I should just take a pair of pliers and untwist and the will snap off each other without breaking off, but I've not run into this system before so any 1st hand experience or cautions appreciated.

thanks,

brian
 
Pulling off the carb is not as hard as you would imagine. If it has one screw on the top, it is a Walbro carb, and the important things to clean/replace are on the underside. To take the carb off all you need is a 4mm allen wrench to remove the 2 long bolts that connect everything together. Take a picture of everything when it is together if you are not confident that you can put it back to together by memory. The carb will pull off and you don't need to do anything with the rubber boot. THe bolts should attach to a metal ring on the front of the rubber boot. Once you do that, just tear the carb down and clean everything out with compressed air and/or carb cleaner. Put it back together and put it back on. It is not very hard at all. Two bolts and you are in business.
 
got it

I didn't have the diagram and got suckered in by the access on the top. It was kind of dusky when i took it apart and I saw the wire clip on the boot and didn't see the 4mm screws and thought maybe I wasn't supposed to dismember further.

Its apart now, no problem and its an HDA. From there the complication is, it is quite clearly stamped 52 A under the HDA (and then A9 under that). And browsing at wem.walbro.com I only find a 52-1 no 52-A. Exploded diagram looks pretty close, but it would be satisifying to think they would use the same ID stamped on the carb.

Should I ignore the mismatch once I know it is a 52?

thanks,

Brian
 
I didn't have the diagram and got suckered in by the access on the top. It was kind of dusky when i took it apart and I saw the wire clip on the boot and didn't see the 4mm screws and thought maybe I wasn't supposed to dismember further.

Its apart now, no problem and its an HDA. From there the complication is, it is quite clearly stamped 52 A under the HDA (and then A9 under that). And browsing at wem.walbro.com I only find a 52-1 no 52-A. Exploded diagram looks pretty close, but it would be satisifying to think they would use the same ID stamped on the carb.

Should I ignore the mismatch once I know it is a 52?

thanks,

Brian

HDA 52-1 is PN for carb. designated by the 1. Ignore the 1. K22-HDA Kit.
Shep
 
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Got Ethanol?

HDA 52-1 is PN for carb. . . . K22-HDA Kit.
Shep

Ordered up a K22-HDA. I notice that many websites offering the rebuild kit have a disclaimer regarding suitability for gas over 10% ethanol. So does someone have a secret method for taking out the extra 5% that may be in the regular we're buying these days, or should I be buying two kits, or any constent additive to run to mitigate damage from ethanol?

thanks,

brian
 
No way to take ethanol out. There is disagreement among members on whether or not ethanol is the culprit. I have found if e-gas is stored for extended period it will eat fuel lines ex. I bought MS290 parts saw to repair and resell (I would not have one personally PITA to work on) the fuel line was shrivelled up closed. New line made $125. To the best of my knowledge the new kits use different material in the diaphgrams E resistant not E proof. I can still get non E gas fortunately. Use 93 instead of 89 saw will start and run better.
Shep
 
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