Removing links from chain

[bennett]

Hi Guys, been a while since I've been to this forum but I have a question.

I went to the Husky dealer yesterday to buy a new chain for my 346XP because the old chain had stretched to the end of my adjustment. The guy behind the counter told me that I could remove links from the chain and even showed me which links to remove and sold me a tool that I am suppose to use to remove the links. I though this was great until last night when I realized that if the link pins can be removed, this was going to be a tough job! I then pulled out my owner’s manual and could not find any information about removing links from the chain.

My question is... can or should links be removed from a stretched chain? If so, what is the easiest way to do it?

Any advice would be a big help. Thanks!

 

[formersawrep]

Chains should not be shortened. If they have stretched, the pitch is no longer what it should be. It will then cause damage to the sprocket.

 

[Chris J.]

Sounds like time for a new chain.

Also, from what I've read & heard (no actual experience), chain building requires a fair amount of experience. But I've been wrong before....

 

[scottr]

Sprocket

Bennett , my Stihl manual says that if the sprocket has .020" wear then it needs replacing . Here is a thread that will help http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=17548

 

[HiOctane]

What kind of tool did the guy sold you? A block with a punch?Its easy to do if you got the right tool,ive done it thousand of time.When you punch out the rivet from the link,better use new tie straps with rivets on it to reassemble your chain its much easier to do.

 

[bennett]

Yeah... he sold me the block and punch. Is that good or bad? Also, if I decide to try it, where do I get new straps and rivets?

 

[njforestfire]

Yeah... he sold me the block and punch. Is that good or bad?

Depends on how much you paid...

How many sharpenings are left for the chain? IMO - buy a new chain. For you to have stretched out the existing chain, I would think that there is not a lot of tooth left to sharpen.

 

[bennett]

Depends on how much you paid...

How many sharpenings are left for the chain? IMO - buy a new chain. For you to have stretched out the existing chain, I would think that there is not a lot of tooth left to sharpen.

Naw... that's the bad part, the chain is like new, sharpened once... cuttin good, chain oil running out with each tank of gas but constantly having to adjust chain until I have run out of adjustment. Thats why I was looking to shorten the chain. Is there such thing as a "cheap" chain? Why would it be stretching so quickly?

 

[formersawrep]

What kind of chain is it? (brand, style, etc)

 

[bennett]

What kind of chain is it? (brand, style, etc)

It is the chain the guy at the Husky place gave me. I believe it is an Oregon chain... beyond that, I don't remember anything else about it. I am assuming it is the stock type chain that came with the saw. (18" bar). Is the stock chain "junk"? I have read on this forum about putting a different size chain on the saw. Is that something I might need to try? If so, what do I need to get?

 

[HiOctane]

Yeah... he sold me the block and punch. Is that good or bad? Also, if I decide to try it, where do I get new straps and rivets?

Get your block fixed on something ,it works better.Get your tie straps from your chain saw dealer.Ask those with rivets on it.And use the old one(without rivet ) you just removed from your chain to join both pieces together.Use a ballpeen hammer to hit the rivets.Check if the drive link is still loose(not tight too much ) after riveting.

 

[Lewis Brander]

Chain Repairing.

I have shortened up some old chains on some of my old saws. I had some new 9/16" tie straps that I've used to shorten up a 9/16" chain. The only problem was that when the chain was put back on the saw, it would bind as it traveled around the end of the bar where the new tie straps were put in. Took me a bit but found out the new tie straps were the problem. They were wider than the old ones on the chain. I ended up filing the edges of the tie straps to the same width (where they ride on the bar rails) as the old tie straps on the chain and all was just fine after that. The old chain was stretched and worn. I replaced the links that were cracked and had other problems and had to file them all to the same width as the old links were so that the chain would work. Chains where I punched out and reused the old tiestraps I've had no problem with. Just something to think about. Lewis Brander.

 

[HiOctane]

I have shortened up some old chains on some of my old saws. I had some new 9/16" tie straps that I've used to shorten up a 9/16" chain. The only problem was that when the chain was put back on the saw, it would bind as it traveled around the end of the bar where the new tie straps were put in. Took me a bit but found out the new tie straps were the problem. They were wider than the old ones on the chain. I ended up filing the edges of the tie straps to the same width (where they ride on the bar rails) as the old tie straps on the chain and all was just fine after that. The old chain was stretched and worn. I replaced the links that were cracked and had other problems and had to file them all to the same width as the old links were so that the chain would work. Chains where I punched out and reused the old tiestraps I've had no problem with. Just something to think about. Lewis Brander.

Lewis,
Did you ask for tie straps specific to your chain numbre like 73 LP,because they sshould be exactly as the used ones on your chain.

 

[cbfarmall]

I think Lewis might have trouble getting ahold of the exact 9/16 parts he needs. That he was able to find any at all is probably remarkable enough.

Chris B.

 

[HiOctane]

I think Lewis might have trouble getting ahold of the exact 9/16 parts he needs. That he was able to find any at all is probably remarkable enough.

Chris B.

youre right,9/16 is not so common.

 

[Lewis Brander]

9/16" links:

Hello to all. The links that I used were repair links that came with the chain that was on the saw. The links were identical to the links on the chain. Can't remember the chain link numbers off hand, but the repair links I had were for that chain. There was an evvelope full of new L. and R. cutters, drive links and tie straps. I've used up most of the tie straps in repairing the old chain on the old Disston. As you can see on the thread "Lewis Brander Collection" under EHP's section of the forum the old Disston was demonstrated and did fairly well. I've since gotten the right files to sharpen the old chains and she should do better next time. Take care. Lewis.

 

[njforestfire]

New 18" chains thru Baileys are under $12 I beleive and they always cut very well with minimal stretching.

 

[bennett]

New 18" chains thru Baileys are under $12 I beleive and they always cut very well with minimal stretching.

Yeah... part of my problem is that I am paying close to $23.00 for a new 18" chain... that's why shortening the chain looks appealing to me. Also, can anyone tell me what kind of life I should expect from a chain? I know there are a lot of factors to consider, but what kind of life is everyone else getting from their chains?