Rigging Blocks & Pulleys???

[Redbull]

Do any of you use any other blocks and pulleys except those specifically designed for arborist applications. Basicly what I'm getting at is, are there any other cheaper alternatives? I'm willing to spend the money to get the job done right but if anyone has any trade secrets to save a couple of bucks, then I'm listening. I have a honey locust removal and the whole back yard is a target. Every inch is landscaped except a small walkway. I have three spars with minimal brush and the rest is just blocking down wood. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brandon

 

[MasterBlaster]

In a pinch, I've used a clevis. I rarely use pulleys at all, but when ya need em, ya need em.

 

[xtremetrees]

Ive used loop runners with not one but two steel biners to rope out heavier wood. Dont use one carabiner it to less of a radious for the rope to bend and hold on. A clevis is much used as MB suggest and probably stronger than what i suggest.
Oppose the gates on the biners if you do use two to increase the surface area your rope will be running over.
Locus is heavy wood dude start small and work to bigger pieces its also prone to splintering. Locus dust burns my eyes wear your goggles and direct those chips out your face dog.
Enjoy!

 

[Redbull]

Rocky, that's the exact set up I was looking at. I was just wondering if there was a little cheaper alternative.
I'm looking at spending about $500 on gear for this removal and I bid the job pretty low. In other words, I'm not making any money after paying my help. On a positive note though, I will be learning something new and I know the gear will pay itself over and over. Any other suggestions are welcome. Thanks for the input.
Brandon

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Those stamped steel pullies are OK for light rigging, but don't take side loading too well.

I have a few of them but have gone almost exclusivly to the ISC aluminum spring blocks, You can load them anywhich way.

 

[dbeck]

I am a fan of spring blocks compared to the blocks w/ the screw tight construction. At the end of a long removal, I have climbed back to the block to take the final top and found the threaded pin has loosened. Not a good situation to say the least...just thought I'd add that. Anyone else had this happen?

 

[Redbull]

I'm not going to be taking anything real big when blocking down the spar. The biggest spar is only about 18"-20" in diameter. So, according to my trusty "Weight of Green Logs" chart, at 20" diameter I could take 2-3' blocks and not exceed 500lbs. Not real heavy stuff but still substantial.

 

[NeTree]

Better to buy the best, and have it for when you DO need to handle more weight, than spend a little less now for something lighter, only to need something heavier down the road.

Trust me... you'll be wishing you had.

 

[Stumper]

I've roped out about a jillion small chunks on CMI Rescue pulleys. The Big blocks have the advantage of being hard to overload. The Rescue Pulleys rated at 5000-6000 lbs(note this is max. tensile--- working loads are much less-arborist rule 10% of breaking everyone elses 20-25% of rated tensile) handle small pieces just fine and are easy to pack around in the tree.

 

[Ax-man]

I can't add much more than has been said except for adding some details.

Like MB said a clevis can be used, if you do use one, get the biggest one you can find, it might be somewhat of a overkill for what your doing, the bigger clevis will help spread the bend ratio on the rope when it is shock loaded.

Brian mentioned the Tenex slings a definate must have, if you don't have these 5/8 Arborplex or Stable Braid could be used with bowline knots or jacked bowlines tied in the end, just be careful as the bowline will be the weakest link in this set up.

Brian mentioned the Port a Wrap, again a definate must have. The Port a Wrap 1 if you can still buy it would have a tendency to let coils fall off the device when blocking wood, if it wasn't locked off good. The improved version is a much better tool for blocking wood.

An investment in heavy rigging equipment is money well spent. If taken care of properly will last a very long time. The next time you need it you will have it.

 

[TreeJunkie]

Redbull,
I have a cheaper alternative, since i live in the area. Well i also happen to have all of the necessary equipment,,hobb's device, GRCS, ISC spring blocks, Tenex eye sling, Whoopies & Loopie ,3/4 inch bull line, along w/ probobally any other kind of rigging or climbing equip which may be necessary... This all comes w/ myself to come show you how to work it.. This may cost you a little less than the 500 than what your looking at spending for this job,, If you need the equipment and some extra help PM me and we can get together.

 

[NeTree]

See? Problem solved.

Nice thing about this site... you can meet alot of cool dudes who understand what you do all day, cuz they do it too.

 

[TreeJunkie]

When it comes to Blocks, we have 3 different ones and with out a doubt nothing beat the ISC spring Blocks especially if you'll be using it repeatedly Not having to worry about it coming unthreaded or worry of dropping the pin is so great, Plus for the amount of weight they can handle they are exceptionally light....

 

[ORclimber]

The 4" CMI #15221 sure is handy. It get used for high lead truck skidding. Good for redirects and MA when pulling trees over. And as a false crotch of course.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Everybody talks about tennex like it's good. I can't think of a rope I like less, except maybe three strand.
Sure the vendors like it 'cus it's cheaper than dirt and easy to splice, but the splices don't last, the loose construction of the rope makes it not suited to tree work, it's limp hand makes it difficult to work with and it's not very strong for it's size.
If I were going to put up with these unattractive qualities, i'd use Vectran or one of the new high modules ropes. and save on size, weight and bulk.

I like the aluminum bolcks with the captive pin, and make sure you can remove the sheave for cleaning and inspection.

 

[TreeJunkie]

Let's see here, all the great things about Tenex,,, well it's easy to splice like you said,,,cheap as dirt like you said, and it's also much lighter than double braid. These are all qualities i'll take if all i have to give up is a little durability and limpness...Do much splicing MM? How many tenex slings can you put out in the time it takes to do one double braid? Thats why tenex is better..By the way i'm not sure what you mean by the splices not lasting i haven't incurred this problem...

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

I don't go for cheap and easy, I want tools that are the best. I'll run Stihl, you run Pullon.

 

[rbtree]

And the one thing that TreeJunkie missed, and also contrary to your statement, Mike, is that 12 strand hollow braided polyester (which Samson calls Tenex) is that it is stronger than double braid.

I have a 7/8th whoopie that is still going strong after appx 8 years of use....not coated either so it's real limp...nor does it have chafe tubing added. We dont use it daily, not even close,but still it 's time to retire it.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Omst of the high modulus products will have poor wear charictaristics, so build a chafe guard into any whoopie/loopie's made from the materials. E.g. some web tubing to cover th burry on a loopie.

 

[Matt Follett]

Your guys like those spring blocks eh? I keep thinking about getting one... We've got the big steel cheek plate ones, with the captive pin, But as dbeck mentioned sometimes the pin will loosen, in fact, I may have posted this here last year, or maybe it was the year before, I can't remember now, but anyway...

On a big removal, we had the pin loosen right off untill on one piece the pulley actually opened up!!!!! The load kept everything together, but man those were some scary moments.

So keep you eye on that pin if you've got/get one of those blocks!!!