Rigging Blocks & Pulleys???

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I like the cmi 3 ton stainless, tenex whoopie for what I call heavy rigging. I've been doing a good deal of lighter rigging lately and am in search of a pre-tension device, such as a block and tackle. Noticed in Sherrill that they now offer double and triple pulleys. Anyone know whether a triple on top, double on botom, would be the way to go so far as mechanical advantage. And are their any other uses for such double and triple pulleys. Thanks, be careful out there.
 
Uh Oh!

I hate to be the odd man out, but I NEVER have a second tie in, unless my original tie in point is 40 ft away. One steel core flipline and I'm good to go (homemade too!). When I get some time I'll post my 4yr. DEPENDABLE homemade flipline...
 
Huh, I never looked at this thread until a few minutes ago! I was missing out on a great discussion!

Here's my comments, FWIW...


Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
... If the block is hanging on an eye sling, just how could you possibly side load it? ...

It happens. It's not supposed to. If you think about it in your head, it seems like it just can't. But trees aren't always ideal. Things can get in the way and mess things up!

I love the ISC pullies with the spring-lock system. In my mind, there are no others!

Originally posted by Mike Maas
If Tennex is a supperior product, why do you need chafe gaurd? Stable Braid has it built on, it called a sheath.

A question for you, how is Tennex supperior to Vectran, other than cheapness?

In Stable Braid and all double braid polyester lines, the cover is not necessarily for chafe guard, as Mike suggests. The strength of these lines is shared fifty percent by each the cover and the core. Damage to the cover could result in a 50% reduction in rope strength. BUT, it does protect the core from grit and UV rays. Single braids might have higher breaking strengths when new, but I wonder who wins after 6months use?

And careful with a lot of those high-modulus hollow braids like Validator 12, Vectrus, etc. These lines are often braided for strength which results in a softer rope whose strands are just BEGGING to get snagged on bark. Like above, these ropes can have much higher ABS's than Yalex or Tenex, but do they maintain their strength in the long run? Right now, I know of know manufacturer who makes a tight (chafe resistant) line out of high-modulus fibers. These lines don't perform as well in these tight braids, when compared to nylon and polyester.

Originally posted by Lumberjack
Can you make a loopie outa double braid?

Can a locking brumnel work on 16 strand? (From another thread that was never answered)

Yes, you CAN do both. But there's no reason too. More work and the results are not worth it. The locking brummell is a more SECURE splice than the standard bury splice for 16 strand. It is much weaker, however. In break-tests, the rope will fail signifigantly lower than the bury splice because in the bury splice, the strands settle in and work together to share the load. In a locking brummel, (in any kind of rope) the strands cannot adjust to the load. I've had locked brummells break at 92% breaking strength in Yalex. I wouldn't expect to get that high of strength retention in XTC, a much firmer rope.

One could justify the locked version of the Brummell in 16 strand because in what we use it for, security (likelihood of the thing not falling apart in use) is what we are looking for, not necessarily strength. I only know of one instance where a 16strand splice came undone (in braided safety blue split tail, done by New England's splicers, not me!). It can happen, apparently. Though the possibility of failure during normal use exists with the standard bury splice, I still prefer it to the few locked brummell versions I've tried. I insure againsts splice slippage by burying more pics before starting the taper. All manufacturers reccomend 5. I go at least 7 or 8. Depending on the firmness of the rope, I might go more. In some Buccanneer line, I've gone as much as 15. That's loose stuff!

And the double-braid loopie? Yeah, you can do it. It's a pain. See the pic. This one shows a whoopie with a little carabiner eye. It wasn't hard to make, but it is a bit tough to adjust. It's with Yale's Double Esterlon (their superior version of Stable Braid!).

Originally posted by rbtree
Additionally, I'm not sure, and will need to ask my supplier and/or Nick, if the aramid ropes require special splicing care, due to the slippery nature of the rope.

Yes, rb-wan, these ropes DO require special splicing care. In my experience, the supplier is not the one to ask. Ask the manufacturer. (Unless they are one in the same...then you're golden!)

Usually a bury splice with a much longer tail (usually 2-4 times what you'd see in polyester) is what is used. The Amsteel Blue splice doesn't do any of the crossing like you see in the Brummell or the Locking Brummell- they say just a straight bury. But talk to the makers of the rope and they should guide you in the right direction. Email me and I can help you, too.

Okay, I think that's all I have for now. Nice thread!

Oh, and TreeJunkie- I put my lanyard below the block sling, too.

Is it too early for a root-beer float?

love
nick
 
Except with my supplier, Nick. They're a big operation, doing all manner of splicing, rigging and net making for the fishing industry.
 
i get my ropes from a fishermans co op at a fraction of the price,its funny that an arbor store will call it ''tree line'' and the co-op has the same stuff (supertrill)
 
Originally posted by NickfromWI
And careful with a lot of those high-modulus hollow braids like Validator 12, Vectrus, etc. These lines are often braided for strength which results in a softer rope whose strands are just BEGGING to get snagged on bark. Like above, these ropes can have much higher ABS's than Yalex or Tenex, but do they maintain their strength in the long run? Right now, I know of know manufacturer who makes a tight (chafe resistant) line out of high-modulus fibers. These lines don't perform as well in these tight braids, when compared to nylon and polyester.



So you consider tenex a "tight" Braid?
In my use of high modules ropes as loopies, slings, and bull ropes, I find them every bit as snag resistant as tenex, even better because you don't have such a huge rope to work with.

The cover adds strength to some double braids, but many double braids have the cover to protect the core where most of the strength comes from. These ropes can have the parts of the cover you don't need cut away to open up the core for it's advantages, like they do with spliced eye ulta tech. The same thing can be done with loopies, whoppies, and other applications.
 
So you consider tenex a "tight" Braid?
In my use of high modules ropes as loopies, slings, and bull ropes, I find them every bit as snag resistant as tenex, .


No, tenex is definately not a tight braid. It is a little better than the high-mod hollow braid lines that I've seen and worked with. But in my opinion, it's strands get snagged more than I would like. This would be fixed by weaving the rope tighter, which lowers the breaking strength of the new rope.

The cover adds strength to some double braids, but many double braids have the cover to protect the core where most of the strength comes from. These ropes can have the parts of the cover you don't need cut away to open up the core for it's advantages, like they do with spliced eye ulta tech. The same thing can be done with loopies, whoppies, and other applications.

When I referred to the cover being an important part of the strength of the rope, I referred to Stable-braid and other double braid polyester lines....a cover AND core both of polyester. In these lines, you should treat the cover with care.

In lines like the ultratech (which you mentioned) the strength from the cover is negligible. And these are the lines that I like. If you look at many of these high-modulus double-braids, most have a polyester cover. That polyester cover is often very, very tightly woven, compared to the loose high-mod core. It is acceptable to cut away the cover on a line like Crystalyne (almost all of whose strength is the vectran core). You cannot treat double-braid polyester in the same way. Cover and core are crucial for strength.

Know your ropes....inside and out!

love
nick
 
pulleys etc are over talked about,i only use pulleys for deflection or on a job that has an extreme amount of lowering a real tree person can read the tree well enough to use a few crutches one rope yes one,everyone wants to go new school when they dont know whats been working for decades,the more gear the more chance to stuff up,all this talk of ropes like steel cable and pulleys everywhere is a sales gimmick just like alloy spurs''how much time do you spend in the tree the salesman asks''oh all day ''well you need these spikes ''what a load of crap,learn the basics before spending money on all the rubish,
 
a cruch dont slip either,i only consider myself to have a resonable knowledge of trees,you dont learn how to do take downs from reading a catologe although some here would disagree
 
Rubish? You may be posting in the wrong forum mate. If you care to continue burning up ropes by running natural crotches so be it. But don't even come in here and bash those of us who have evolved. Our tools are not rubish, you just sound like a tight arse who isn't willing to pay out for proper equipment.:angry:
 
Old schoolers and new-tech climbers need to accept and respect each other's styles. There is no reason why one has to lord their techniques over another.

Or am I missing something here?
 
everything has its place,diffrent strokes diffrent folks,by the time my rope is glazed its made me enough im no cheapskate and i dont work for peanuts.you obviously dont get it,using cruches saves time,labour. all getting the same job done.as i said i do use pulleys only when its necesary.im 30 with 12 yrs experience doing real work i dont own a hand saw im not after that market
 
Old schoolers and new-tech climbers need to accept and respect each other's styles. There is no reason why one has to lord their techniques over another.

Spoken like a true die hard od schooler...
If you old schoolers tried "lording your techniques", the new schoolers would just laugh:p
 
Agreed, I use natural crotches routinely....for light lowering, the line will last for years. In a conifer, it is usually not time effective to set a pulley, and often, lifeline.

That said, I own 7 pulleys, 5 blocks, and use 'em...enough!


Lying down on the job:
 
Originally posted by murphy4trees
Spoken like a true die hard od schooler...
If you old schoolers tried "lording your techniques", the new schoolers would just laugh:p



Whats the deal, Daniel? Dis me every chance you get?

If it makes you feel superior, go ahead. I'm willing to help you in your time of need.
 
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