Roachy/BigJohn 'Biner Setup

[rahtreelimbs]

I had the chance to use the 'biner setup that Roachy & BigJohn are using this weekend in a big Red Oak. This setup is nice!!!


The only difference that I do is to use a snap on the woking end of my climbing line.


Thanks for the great tip. That along with the ButterflyII has made climbing a little easier!!!

 

[Chucky]

Rich,

Do you have a pic of that setup, or is it on an earlier thread I missed?

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Chucky
Rich,

Do you have a pic of that setup, or is it on an earlier thread I missed?

I can get a pic.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Pic #1.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Second pic.

My tress cord needs to be shortened.

 

[Gord]

has anyone else noticed how thin those new snaps are (the red aluminum ones) ? in profile, the metal on the eye is just over half as thick as the old ones. a bit thin in my opinion to be attatched directly to the rope.

 

[Nickrosis]

What happened to the thumb? Was it caused by the new setup?

 

[Stumper]

Gord, I ring hitched some seine twine around the eye of my aluminum snaps.-I agree that they are kind of thin and square edged for tying onto stock, so I made them fatter and padded.

 

[NickfromWI]

Mine has 2 pieces of thick leather sewn on for the same reason! I don't like the new snaps. But that's another thread for another time!

love
nick

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
The setup still looks too long. Look at the picture, your reaching out with a straight arm and you can't reach the hitch unless you bend forward.

What's the advantage to having the biner and rope snap attached to the captive eye biner, instead of the bridge?

I will start by saying that I like all the input whether it is positive or negative. The setup may be long for some but hasn't been for my ape arms.


The advantage to having the whole setup as it is, is to allow you to disconnect the whole setup from the bridge if you need to go around a limb or the tree stem, at least that is my understanding.


As far as the snap loading the gate, that is a good point. Moving the snap to the captive eye hole would solve this.


Finally, Thanx Eric for the heads up on the tresse cord tails.


My thumb was a result of being too close to the Zubat!

 

[Nickrosis]

Originally posted by RAHTREELIMBS
My thumb was a result of being too close to the Zubat!

My hand's healing up now, too.

 

[Ross Turner]

RAHTREELIMBS wrote
"The advantage to having the whole setup as it is, is to allow you to disconnect the whole setup from the bridge if you need to go around a limb or the tree stem, at least that is my understanding".


When i am climbing i have a blakes with twistlock & on the eye splice of climbing rope i have another twistlock,these are connected straight to a floating D, so i have the same set up but only using 2 krabs & not three & i can do exactly the same.So this is my point why do you need to use 3 krabs?.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Ross Turner
RAHTREELIMBS wrote
"The advantage to having the whole setup as it is, is to allow you to disconnect the whole setup from the bridge if you need to go around a limb or the tree stem, at least that is my understanding".


When i am climbing i have a blakes with twistlock & on the eye splice of climbing rope i have another twistlock,these are connected straight to a floating D, so i have the same set up but only using 2 krabs & not three & i can do exactly the same.So this is my point why do you need to use 3 krabs?.

How do you disconnect the entire setup from the floating D? If I understand you right the D stays put and cannot be removed from the bridge. You have to remove both 'biners separately then you have 2 units to deal with.

Whatever works for you is the best setup!!!

 

[Ross Turner]

Originally posted by RAHTREELIMBS
How do you disconnect the entire setup from the floating D? If I understand you right the D stays put and cannot be removed from the bridge. You have to remove both 'biners separately then you have 2 units to deal with.

Whatever works for you is the best setup!!!

Yes the D stays on the bridge,If i need to redirect i just remove one krab thats connected to the splice end & reposition it without having to remove my blakes.

As you say what works for you is the best

 

[Nickrosis]

Originally posted by RAHTREELIMBS
Whatever works for you is the best setup!!!

Don't say things like that! It totally defuses tension....

 

[Husky288XP]

Did anyone ever try that DDM or DMM carabiner with a pulley wheel in it, for a smooth run across the bridge? I cannot remember if it had a locking gate though.

 

[jkrueger]

Originally posted by Husky288XP
Did anyone ever try that DDM or DMM carabiner with a pulley wheel in it, for a smooth run across the bridge? I cannot remember if it had a locking gate though.

Very unfortunatly it has a wire gate. Boy, it would be great if it had a locking gate.

Jack

 

[NickfromWI]

Someone recently showed how they use that DMM pulley-biner along with another locker. The weight is held by the smaller pulley-biner and the locker is there in case it somehow comes out.

Bulky, I know, but it works!

love
nick

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by Ross Turner
Yes the D stays on the bridge,If i need to redirect i just remove one krab thats connected to the splice end & reposition it without having to remove my blakes.

As you say what works for you is the best

Hey Ross,

The captive eye 'biner acts as the d-ring. When disconnecting the captive eye 'biner, the whole setup can be removed from the bridge. This way you can redirect both lines not just one as in the way you described above. You can also just remove the working end with the same result as what you describe above.

 

[BigJohn]

This is how I like to set it up with the eye splice. For me I wouldn't want the extra jingle jangle. I am like Rich with the long monkey like arms if its out of reach use the feet.