Root Girdling

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Just for the record here, I feel the need to clear-up some previous stated comments that I made concerning the work I was having performed on some of my trees.
First off, the person who was working on the root girdling problem I had/have with my trees is/was not a certified arborist as I believe I had earlier stated. This person has (primarily) done this type of work for a certified arborist (his employer) for about four years now. I say that ONLY to set the record straight with everyone, NOT that I personally feel this particular person needs that certification title to make him an expert in his own field… ‘cos I do believe “on the job training” is where a good percentage of useful knowledge is gained and put into practice. This past week I had the privilege of watching him meticulously work on a dozen or so trees over a two day period. I personally felt he was doing an excellent job ‘cos… well, for instance, for one thing… if he had to pull a rope or wire (portion of left wire basket) through some intertwining roots, he’d make sure he didn’t pry directly on any of the surrounding roots. If he needed a fulcrum, he would make sure there was some form of protection inserted there so no tool would damage and dig into a root that was to be saved. Sure, being extra careful takes additional minutes… which ultimately means more out-of-the pocket $$.$$ from my end, but the end result is that being extra careful doesn’t put any undo or additional stress on the tree.
Secondly…
I used the word “tree spade” as the tool he was using to perform this type of work. The terminology that I was told is correct for this particular tool is a, “tree knife”. I was told there is a difference… can anyone explain or show me a picture of what an air spade really is? Not only that, but how and why is it used… for what purposes, etc.. In fact, the fellow that was doing my work for me said that on more than one occasion he has come in behind someone that had used an air spade and the root damage was extensive that he found. From what I could tell, the air knife is basically a tool that has air zipping out its end at about 850 mph. Needless to say it is a noisy process that sends the soil and mulch a flyin’!
Also…
Another aspect I didn’t know about planting a tree was that once a hole for a new tree has been dug to its proper size… with flare of tree being discovered and noted beforehand (… NOT where top of root ball is!!), like before ever getting the shovel dirty, is that a person should sorta chop into the outer circumference wall of the hole to make it a jagged/rough surface, and not leave it as a smooth surface…. as a shovel might leave its cut into the soil. I was told that if the surface is left in too smooth of a condition, for lack of a better term here, I was told that that surface can become “glazed like” with some soils… hence, making it a hardened surface that the growing roots of a newly established tree will not wish to penetrate. Case in point; I had a Sweet Gum that had two separate roots (on opposite sides of the tree) that had made an abrupt U turn and headed back the other direction! If possible, I will attempt to share a picture of one U-shaped root with everyone later on.
The other day, when observing yet one more excavation in progress, there was this root (Aristocrat Pear) that looked like it had just abruptly ended. Now have you, this root was some 3 or so inches in diameter. From the angle I was looking at it it sorta looked like what one would see if they were seated in a chair, looking down at one of their knees. You know, when looking at it from that angle it just kinda drops away. Anyway, the feller that was doing all this work said that he bet that if he blew out some more soil in that vicinity there that he’d find a wire that had altered the course of that particular root. Sure enough, just below what we could see at that point in time was this little ole wire that had caused the root to take a deep downward dive to who knows where!
Anyway…
Thus far I’ve had 22 trees “air knifed” and another 15 or so that should be examined as well. Before going forward further with anymore work the ole piggy bank will have to be re-fed a rich diet ‘fore that can happen anytime soon! Only four or five of those remaining will probably have a wire basket buried there amongst their roots. If I hadn’t seen it with my very own eyes, it’s almost unbelievable just how much havoc a left behind spindly rope… a wire basket… can completely alter the natural network of a rooted tree. And once the tree has been stunted as so… where it is primarily “existing” and not doing all that much positive “growing” into a healthy mature tree, it becomes so vulnerable to such numerous prey out there!
Wishing everyone a most safe and joyous fourth of July!
mb
 
So many questions...

Air spade and air knife are basicly the same type of pnumatic tool made by different companies. The spade is die-electric, the knife alumnium so much lighter. I own a knife because i wanted ther lighter tool.

I call it air excavation, or if the client likes fancy talk I may say a "Pnumatic basal excavation and examination." I would like to try one of those trailer vacs like RockVac Or Dirtch Witch makes, just too pricey for the volume I do in excavations.

A tree spade is a peice of large equipment used to dig trees out and transport them to another location.
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One must be carefull with clay soils because the cap end of the growing root needs to find the voids between soil particles to grow outwards. It "finds" this sheet schmeered and compressed soil and veers out to the path of least resistance.

Field potted trees are called "containerized" where the others are "container grown".

My stated preferance will allways be bare root trees, try to convince the customer to use these. Then B&B then Containerized. Container grown is for shrubs and herbaciouse in my book.

So Dan, what I would say is set it up so that you can sell containerized stock but maybe space for a small spade. It will all depend on your clientell though. I've supported the idea of big spades for small trees for quite some time now. Use the biggest spade you can get on site after selecting stock that is still growing in the field, best to select far ahead so you can do a root exam prior to digging, but then you would have done that on all the stock anyways ;)

If they want big ones try for a few big cheap trees and better small ones for the long term. Concentrate on cost, maintinance and long term health in the selling. Especialy if it has some memorial purpose, "We want to ensure that the tree has every chance to survive to its maturity."

When we modify the root ball root system we often need to stake the tree, just to ensure that it will not throw a little. some cheap rope, web tuning and use a taught-line at the stake to tension.
 
So many questions...

Air spade and air knife are basicly the same type of pnumatic tool made by different companies. The spade is die-electric, the knife alumnium so much lighter. I own a knife because i wanted ther lighter tool.

I call it air excavation, or if the client likes fancy talk I may say a "Pnumatic basal excavation and examination." I would like to try one of those trailer vacs like RockVac Or Dirtch Witch makes, just too pricey for the volume I do in excavations.

A tree spade is a peice of large equipment used to dig trees out and transport them to another location.
tilt.jpg


One must be carefull with clay soils because the cap end of the growing root needs to find the voids between soil particles to grow outwards. It "finds" this sheet schmeered and compressed soil and veers out to the path of least resistance.

Field potted trees are called "containerized" where the others are "container grown".

My stated preferance will allways be bare root trees, try to convince the customer to use these. Then B&B then Containerized. Container grown is for shrubs and herbaciouse in my book.

So Dan, what I would say is set it up so that you can sell containerized stock but maybe space for a small spade. It will all depend on your clientell though. I've supported the idea of big spades for small trees for quite some time now. Use the biggest spade you can get on site after selecting stock that is still growing in the field, best to select far ahead so you can do a root exam prior to digging, but then you would have done that on all the stock anyways ;)

If they want big ones try for a few big cheap trees and better small ones for the long term. Concentrate on cost, maintinance and long term health in the selling. Especialy if it has some memorial purpose, "We want to ensure that the tree has every chance to survive to its maturity."

When we modify the root ball root system we often need to stake the tree, just to ensure that it will not throw a little. some cheap rope, web tuning and use a taught-line at the stake to tension.
 
baskets

We talk about Burlap and wire Baskets but out in the field you will also see feed sacks used as well as, instead of wire, orange, nylon like or the same as the fence the highway dept. uses for construction fence. These were used and customers were told they would fall apart in the soil. They do not, the orange nylon mesh needs sunlight to disintegrate and it won't get any underground. Tree roots strangle in it just like the wrong fish caught in the nets at sea. Final word is the baskets need to be removed before planting the trees or you and I will be called to fix the problems after it is too late.The glazing problems I see can be helped by roto-tilling an (x) 8'-10' long and 12" deep in the soil in the spot you are going to dig the hole for the new tree and put some organic material in with the soil to make it soft enough for the roots to move through it. Think about a tree in the forest, it has a soft field of leaf debris to start in and you need to create a comparable situation for this tree you are planting. The roto-tilling can be done after the tree has been placed but then the tree planter has to own or rent a roto-tiller and the cost of planting the tree goes up a little. The tree will thank you. Mulch ( not deep) the area and it will look good to the eye. It is not dig a hole and plop a tree in, it is work to do it right and the roto-till will lessen the compation any of the machines you used caused to the area.
 
Wanted to pass this by you tree x-pert guys as well… Vertical Mulching
Yep, the certified arborist (not the original arborist that suggested the air knifing program to me) stopped by as his employee was trimming up some more wayward roots the other day. After seeing but one more sorry tree’s rooting system, he (arborist), used some tool to check the soil compaction level (which was like concrete, primarily due to a wonderful clay bed I built my house in the middle of!) in my lawn and strongly suggested that I do (or have done…) some serious vertical mulching in and around the trees. His suggestion was boring numerous 2” holes underneath the canopies (and outside), do not backfill them, but instead, leave ‘em open and fill these holes with some liquid type of a Mycorrhiza feeding program. I’m wondering if you guys feel this is something that, I, as a homeowner can do myself? I know I’d hafta rent me some tool for the boring portion, but what about the Mycorrhiza feeding side of the project? Is it readily available and is this something that shouldn’t be too difficult of a task in pulling off, at least to the point where I won’t/can’t screw it up too badly… or whadda you guys think ‘bout this process?
Again, with much and many thanks!
mb
 
I'm supprised that they are suggesting boing when the ait tool is available.

I would do radial trenches and backfill with a sandy loam amendment to the native soil.

Drilling will glaze the soil too, and some rescent tests shhow that there is very little improvemnet of soil outside of any improvements under turf. So mulch as far out as aestheticly possible.

Compaction is a microscopic event, the worms et.al. need to do their Work, crwaling in and out, for true remidiation.
 
Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
[
Drilling will glaze the soil too, and some rescent tests shhow that there is very little improvemnet
Compaction is a microscopic event, the worms et.al. need to do their Work, crwaling in and out, for true remidiation. [/B]

Totally True Big Guy! That's why swinging a miner's pick into the soil is the best aeration technique. When you push up on the handle you crack up the soil, then pack the holes with compost, worms, permatill, etc.

All that works its way laterally, doing much more good than boring without disturbing as many roots as the airspade does.
 
I realize I may be guilty of fast-forwarding myself along too quickly here, being I do have soil compaction problems in my lawn today, but am I so wrong to assume that a season of winter action (freezing and thawing) will not cause any glazing problems in a 2" x 10" deep (or so) hole to break down by springtime?
You see, I'm trying to approach this chore from a more practical means… Only to say, airing tree roots via the suggested “Pick & Pull” method on some 45 trees makes me sweat just thinking of placing a pick handle in my soft hands!
mb
 
Originally posted by syncom2
am I so wrong to assume that a season of winter action (freezing and thawing) will not cause any glazing problems in a 2" x 10" deep (or so) hole to break down by springtime?

Ground does not freeze and thaw much below the surface. If you keep holes open and unmulched to get more freeze-thaw you get too much air in holes to foster root growth which is the whole idea, right? The unfilled-holes approach seems flawed.

I sweat just thinking of placing a pick handle in my soft hands!
mb

I sweat thinking about paying good money for drilling when it may do more harm than good. Augers cut roots, which surely does not help. the pick on the other hand is much narrower going in so it will his less roots. The ones it does hit it tends to glance off of rather than cut.

Get into pick-swinging gradually and you and your hands will toughen up.
 
Guy,
The ground in yer neck of the woods may not freeze too much below the surface, but up in Ohio, on more than one ocassion I've seen 30" buried water lines freeze solid as a rock.
I wonder, is there much testing information (from universites) about the subject of verticle mulching?
mb
 

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