Round 2 (with better pictures) sheared MS440 Crank

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Alphadelta

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So I sheared the threads off the flywheel side of MS440 Carb. I am underwhelmed with the farm tech replacement and OEM is $380.

Can I drill and tap this for a bolt or a stud with red locktight? Or really I’m welcome to any other ideas.

e37a69bd601797a73b3f4ef7ddca02eb.jpg
 
It can and has been done, the crank center material my be quite hardened, some have reported that a cobalt drill will work, others say a carbide drill is needed.

Sweet. I’ll look around would you do a bolt or a stud? I would weld the stud but I worry about imbalance at 10,000 RPM


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The bolt seems to work just fine from what has been posted, a stud would be just as efficient but need to be locked in to prevent it from backing out. Fine thread will hold more torque than coarse, a bottoming tap would give the most threads in a given blind hole.

Good stuff. I will look into maybe like a #8 fine thread bottoming tap.

I was going to do the bolt but since fly wheel is recessed not sure I can get the bolt to make contact with the wheel.

Thanks for all the help.

Got this saw for $200 and putting back the fly was my last thing and bam. I could of cried lol.


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For me I have just changed the crank out as I have good ones in my parts boxes , I bought two 044`s that had broken cranks but have replaced bearings in many more. When set up to split cases and install new bearings or cranks it does not take long or much work. It is a bigger chore the first time round though but I see in another thread of yours that you were thinking of installing another AM crank.
 
Good stuff. I will look into maybe like a #8 fine thread bottoming tap.

I was going to do the bolt but since fly wheel is recessed not sure I can get the bolt to make contact with the wheel.

Thanks for all the help.

Got this saw for $200 and putting back the fly was my last thing and bam. I could of cried lol.


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Are you removing the crank to do the drilling?
 
I wasn’t planning on it, I know I know probably not the best idea.

But now that I realize my bearings and seals are all probably crap I’m less inclined to create more work for myself.

And ya I bought a farm tech and forums and people mostly have said “not a good plan”.


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That’s amazing lol. It was an Chicago. I was tired and didn’t realize I was torquing a #10 fine thread nut with an impact gun until after I was holding the nut.


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You are not the first one to shear them off but I will bet you won`t do it again.
 
A year ago, while removing a flywheel nut with an impact, the threaded portion of the crankshaft spun off. Used cobalt drill bits, tapped the shaft end to 1/4” installed bolt and washer. No locktite needed. Saw works like it never even happened.
Your crankshaft end looks better than mine did. You won’t even need a center punch to start a small drill bit. Cobalt bits work just fine. Maybe you’ll need a couple washers.
 
You are not the first one to shear them off but I will bet you won`t do it again.

Dang straight. Color me more careful.

So the plan is to get the saw up into a vice nice and tight. Get my hands on carbide or cobalt drill bits with the appropriate size taps and just go slow. I’ve also posted for an OEM crank.

Just out of curiosity how do you like your 044/MS440? This will be my first larger Stihl.


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Dang straight. Color me more careful.

So the plan is to get the saw up into a vice nice and tight. Get my hands on carbide or cobalt drill bits with the appropriate size taps and just go slow. I’ve also posted for an OEM crank.

Just out of curiosity how do you like your 044/MS440? This will be my first larger Stihl.


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I have been running them since around 1990, I have enough spare parts to run them at least another 20 years, after that I won`t be here to run saws...LOL ..They soon became my favorite chainsaw for production cutting of all types, felling trees, bucking hardwood firewood or CTL logs. I have high hours on many of them now and still have the same opinion of them from the outset, they more than fill my needs.
 
As above, get an OEM crank and rebuild the saw.
You could take the old crank out and get a price for facing it up,
boring out the centre, getting a new bolt with a big head to push against the
fly wheel, that will cost you more, and will only work if it’s properly balanced.

I wouldn’t trust too many to leave that crank as well balanced as Stihl did.
 
Found this chainsaw in the trash at the local scrapyard, MS250, couldn't get it to start and found the same thing.. This saw was for sure abused.
Wound up taking the whole thing apart and put a new piston in it. Runs like new, almost even better than new.
 

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