Round 2 (with better pictures) sheared MS440 Crank

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As above, get an OEM crank and rebuild the saw.
You could take the old crank out and get a price for facing it up,
boring out the centre, getting a new bolt with a big head to push against the
fly wheel, that will cost you more, and will only work if it’s properly balanced.

I wouldn’t trust too many to leave that crank as well balanced as Stihl did.
I will have to get a used one because no way I am paying $300+ for an OEM crankshaft. I have a farmtech one but people have warned me against using it.
Because there is the original divot from the saw is, I think I will be fairly successful at getting a nice centered hole.
 
I will have to get a used one because no way I am paying $300+ for an OEM crankshaft. I have a farmtech one but people have warned me against using it.
Because there is the original divot from the saw is, I think I will be fairly successful at getting a nice centered hole.
Wow, I guess thats the price you pay when dealing with a 440. I imagine its still cheaper than a whole new saw. I want to say mine was around $80.. Its also only a 250 which are also abundant. I also searched for a while on eBay waiting for the best deal.

I can't say for Farmtech I have no idea. But depending on how heavily you use the saw, why not give it a shot, and when it blows, you're already familair with the process and put an OEM one in. By that time I'm sure the saw will have paid for a new crank itself.
 
Wow, I guess thats the price you pay when dealing with a 440. I imagine its still cheaper than a whole new saw. I want to say mine was around $80.. Its also only a 250 which are also abundant. I also searched for a while on eBay waiting for the best deal.

I can't say for Farmtech I have no idea. But depending on how heavily you use the saw, why not give it a shot, and when it blows, you're already familair with the process and put an OEM one in. By that time I'm sure the saw will have paid for a new crank itself.
Excellent point, ya I have a MS250 as well. Been awesome, it will live in the truck for the winter in case a tree decides it obeys gravity! :p
Ya then when I called my local dealer he said most parts specific to this saw will require waiting because it's an older model. Sad day for sure.
 
Excellent point, ya I have a MS250 as well. Been awesome, it will live in the truck for the winter in case a tree decides it obeys gravity! :p
Ya then when I called my local dealer he said most parts specific to this saw will require waiting because it's an older model. Sad day for sure.
Might as well try it and see what gives! Maybe run a little bit more oil than 50:1, maybe like a 40:1 and you'll have better results, who knows. But its better than have a down saw!!
 
Might as well try it and see what gives! Maybe run a little bit more oil than 50:1, maybe like a 40:1 and you'll have better results, who knows. But its better than have a down saw!!
Touche. That was my plan just to give it a 40:1 or even more for the first couple of tanks. Thanks for all the advice.
 
I will have to get a used one because no way I am paying $300+ for an OEM crankshaft. I have a farmtech one but people have warned me against using it.
Because there is the original divot from the saw is, I think I will be fairly successful at getting a nice centered hole.
There are plenty of good used cranks out there for the 440, you already have one offer in this thread. Plenty of members on here have spare parts for that saw.
 
There are plenty of good used cranks out there for the 440, you already have one offer in this thread. Plenty of members on here have spare parts for that saw.
Ya I hit him up, and posted it on the tradin post section! I should of thought of that first. I appreciate the advice. :)
I am much more hopeful after reading all of this then I was before. I have worked out my mental blueprint how to go about this now.
 
Ya I hit him up, and posted it on the tradin post section! I should of thought of that first. I appreciate the advice. :)
I am much more hopeful after reading all of this then I was before. I have worked out my mental blueprint how to go about this now.
Keep us all in the loop. I will be splitting one just as soon as set of gaskets arrive, got an oil leak under the oil tank, gasket gone soft.
 
I will have to get a used one because no way I am paying $300+ for an OEM crankshaft. I have a farmtech one but people have warned me against using it.
Because there is the original divot from the saw is, I think I will be fairly successful at getting a nice centered hole.
Yep a used one is what I meant, not new, unless you get a bargain.
 
I welded all my life, and I wouldn’t weld it for myself, heat will soften the crank,
change it’s dimensions too, if you cool it it will be brittle.

Good to know. I was debating on a quick fusion weld with the tig gun but I am by no means an expert with tig not to mention like you said temper is important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Good to know. I was debating on a quick fusion weld with the tig gun but I am by no means an expert with tig not to mention like you said temper is important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Drill it out, and because of the small dimensions use a hard bolt to keep the wheel on,
to me , balance needs to be spot on, can certainly be done, guys who will do it right
will know what to charge though, if all else is good, it will be worth it, if you have serious hours
on the saw / crank, then a low hour crank would be better.

Are these cranks Two or Three piece, maybe get a damaged crank, split it and press the threaded
end into yours.
 
Are these cranks Two or Three piece, maybe get a damaged crank, split it and press the threaded
end into yours.

Maybe you Irish boys are smarter than US Yankees but I got to say don't suggest this unless you have done it. Oh and you keep worrying about the balance. The balance is least affected the closer the inside center you get. This will not be a problem at all.
 
Maybe you Irish boys are smarter than US Yankees but I got to say don't suggest this unless you have done it. Oh and you keep worrying about the balance. The balance is least affected the closer the inside center you get. This will not be a problem at all.
Yup i welded the stud on my with no issues it runs fine (ms310)
 
Alright
SOS

I have tried drilling it. Even bought a drill press. Cobalt drill bits aren’t touching it.

What can I use to drill this crank?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BTW you may be able to drill with a masonry bit but go slow speed and use milk as a lubricant.

Masonry bit huh? Like just the spade ones in a metric size?

And to your earlier comment. Ya a pure carbide drill bit is $18-$24.

I was hoping to NOT split the saw because the bearings and seals I got are not good quality and STIHL bearings are, also, not easy on the wallet.

However, the offer for the OEM crank is just too bullet proof to resist.

Some have mentioned just going to an industrial supplier and buying NSK? bearings of the same type.

We will see. Of course I chose Labor Day weekend to try this so now I’m screwed until Tuesday which starts my work week. [emoji2357]
 
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