RS or RM chain for firewood

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I only run RS or RSL, it is just faster, and I focus on trying to avoid dirty wood whenever I can. If I roll a log and there is dirt on the former bottom, I put the bar in the cut and lift with the bar angled up, so the dirt is not trapped between your cutters and the wood. I also have spare chains available in case something need a lot of attention.
 
The chain and cutter style you select will depend on your needs and your personality.

I like aggressive cutters so I can finish the task at hand as quickly as possible, or accomplish more in the time I have available.

Most of the time the wood I cut is clean hardwood that I have dropped or is the result of recent storm damage.

Others work in different situations and have different needs.

That is why they make different style cutters, and you can even get carbon ones that will last much longer than regular chain, but they are not quite as fast and very expensive, but would make sense in some situations.
 
RS is what I prefer, but I do have a few loops of RM for stump work and the like. Stihl's chain holds it's edge quite a bit longer than any other chain I've used. However the last few loops of RS chain I've seen has excessive hook, and the depth gauges were too high. The word is both Stihl and Oregon chisel chains are being ground with excessive hook to increase cutting speed at the expense of durability. The high depth gauges is an attempt to keep the chain from being too grabby. I've been re profiling, and setting the depth gauges on some chains before I use them.
 
The chain and cutter style you select will depend on your needs and your personality.

I like aggressive cutters so I can finish the task at hand as quickly as possible, or accomplish more in the time I have available.

Most of the time the wood I cut is clean hardwood that I have dropped or is the result of recent storm damage.

Others work in different situations and have different needs.

That is why they make different style cutters, and you can even get carbon ones that will last much longer than regular chain, but they are not quite as fast and very expensive, but would make sense in some situations.



Diifferent needs is the clue, no doubt about that.
 
RM no doubt. But then here we often have silica embedded in the grain, along with white ant turds and carbon from fires. All points to semi chisel, whether you hit dirt, rocks or are really anal (and I don't have the luxury of time getting firewood anyway)
 
RM /semichisel for 99.999% of all my cutting,RS just gets knocked around way to fast to get any cutting done

The trouble with that is of course that Oregon chain often is better than Stihl chain, and chisel often (mostly) is better than semi-chisel.
 
I've used pretty well all major chain brands and there isn't much in it. I don't believe one single manufacturer nails every single chain type.
In an outright cutting race in the same wood full chisel will generally be around 10% faster than semi chisel.
By the end of the day though semi chisel will be in front in most timber types.
 
RS is what I prefer, but I do have a few loops of RM for stump work and the like. Stihl's chain holds it's edge quite a bit longer than any other chain I've used. However the last few loops of RS chain I've seen has excessive hook, and the depth gauges were too high. The word is both Stihl and Oregon chisel chains are being ground with excessive hook to increase cutting speed at the expense of durability. The high depth gauges is an attempt to keep the chain from being too grabby. I've been re profiling, and setting the depth gauges on some chains before I use them.
I've been noticing the same thing with RM depth gauges being too high on new chains.
 
I've been noticing the same thing with RM depth gauges being too high on new chains.

The same thing applies to Stihl's .325" chain as well. Stihl have apparently done this as their chain is designed to be run on a wide range of saws with far different power outputs.
I brought this up with an Australian Stihl dealer who spoke to Stihl. For example anywhere from the MS211 right through to the 261CM come fitted with 26RM. The other thing Stihl had to consider was that the MS261 right through to the MS880 can come optioned with 36RM. A chain setup with depth gauges to suit the 261CM will be too much for a 211 to pull easily and the same goes for the 50cc to 121cc range.
They have to compromise :)
 
The same thing applies to Stihl's .325" chain as well. Stihl have apparently done this as their chain is designed to be run on a wide range of saws with far different power outputs.
I brought this up with an Australian Stihl dealer who spoke to Stihl. For example anywhere from the MS211 right through to the 261CM come fitted with 26RM. The other thing Stihl had to consider was that the MS261 right through to the MS880 can come optioned with 36RM. A chain setup with depth gauges to suit the 261CM will be too much for a 211 to pull easily and the same goes for the 50cc to 121cc range.
They have to compromise :)
I also wonder if they make it less aggressive for less experienced operators. That's ok though, a couple strokes with a file and it's good to go.
 
I also wonder if they make it less aggressive for less experienced operators. That's ok though, a couple strokes with a file and it's good to go.

To get 26RM cutting properly on my MS241C I have to drop the depth gauges a bit straight out the box. They make safety chain to protect inexperienced operators :)
 
To get 26RM cutting properly on my MS241C I have to drop the depth gauges a bit straight out the box. They make safety chain to protect inexperienced operators :)

If I had a full blown chainsaw shop selling new equipment on a showroom floor, I'd take that shallowly ground chain as I spun loops out the box and buff out each loop on the grinder then a couple passes on the stand based on which model it was getting paired with. I've got RS and RSC on hand in 3/8 .063 and .325 .063 RS. Right out of the box--I won't call it exessive hook, but the computerized grinder was definitely set on production mode and somebody asleep at the wheel as there is always a little hump in the gullet. You know how your wheels get after about 15 chains.....losing the circumference? That's part of it. I might go take a picture. Oregon knows Stihl has been doing this....and they are continually improving the out of the box grind. That wins customers. I think a shrewd dealer would capitalize on the out of the box state state of Stihl chain and condition it for each application. All they do is sit around looking at tittie calendar anyhow.

Now about the state of the production facility, how do you ream ass in Swiss? Like this: Wer hat das getan? Warum dauert es saugen? Sie sind dumm. Sie sind gefeuert du betrunken lausig. Gehen Sie sitzen in der Kneipe und versuchen, bezahlt, Maladroit Sie.
 

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