Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
I was given a Ripsaw and with an 044 Stihl powerhead. All of the bands are brand new with the exception of the one on it. Due to issues with its storage, they are also all rusted. What suggestions can you give me?
RUSTY RipSaw blades
- Thread starter Dan Dill
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Andy Harden
ArboristSite Member
Put the on and run them. The rust will come off real quick.
Then just do not store them in a humid place.
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
Put the on and run them. The rust will come off real quick.
Then just do not store them in a humid place.
Should i coat them with something prior to running them and do I have a risk of them being weakened from the rust?
Andy Harden
ArboristSite Member
Dan, I have let a couple of blades get real rusty (my BAD) I sprayed them with WD40 stuck them on ad entered the wood SLOWLY. After a few feet into the cant I sped the feed up a little. After a couple of passes I stopped the mill and inspected th blade. To my surprise ALL the surface rust was gone. I sawed the rest of that log and inspected it again. The blade looked like new.
woodshop
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree with Andy, unless they are so rusted that the integrity of the blade itself is compromised (unlikely unless they were literally stored in constant contact with water), just run them into the wood, and they will clean themselves off pretty quick.
climber1423
ArboristSite Operative
Dont run a rusty chain! Get a bowl and put bar oil in it and let the chain soak in it for a day or two... Well before that put the chain on a bench grinder with a wire wheel! Itll take the rust off then you can soak it! The reason for me saying dont run is it will screw up your bar!
Dan
Dan
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
thanks guys. i will let you know how it turns out.
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
The first blade snapped nicely and the saw was bucking and jerking like hell until the break!
flht01
ArboristSite Operative
Was that the only blade you ran? Just trying to help figure out if it was the band or a setting on the saw.
Andy Harden
ArboristSite Member
On the next blade take a careful look at the band when you put it on. If the band has an irregular spot in it, it might have been kinked. If so it will buck, vibrate and break at that stress point. Plain rust will not cause that problem.
Andy
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks guys, I might run more tomorrow. I will post results.
Finnbear
ArboristSite Operative
Rusty chain? I thought this was about rusty bands. :help:
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
Okay, I need more help now! I ran it today and made two cuts. The first one the saw started to ride up in the middle and cut uneven so it was convex. The second cut rode down in the middle and was concave. WHAT in the *()&*()^&*()^&*() am I doing wrong???!!!???!!!???!!!???
flht01
ArboristSite Operative
The first thing I'd do is check the carbide guide setting. In fact, I started doing that on a fairly regular basis even though it doens't seem to change. You only need about 3 to 4 thousands more than the blade and can use a feeler guage to check it.
Are the blades new?
What kind of wood are you cutting?
Wet or dry?
Are you using the guide beams on every cut? You can just rest them on top of the cant.
Don't give up, it's worth the effort.
Dan , is it possible that the board cupped after it was sawn ? I resawed some 2" boards for a friend that thought they were dry and the middle was not as dry as the outside they cupped quick .
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
Wood is green maple, madrone, tanoak, and myrtle. The cupped wood was fresh green maple. I did not cup from being cut, but rather the cut was cupped. The blades were brand new when left out to rust in a barn. We are using the guide beam, and I have not checked the gauged in the carbide.
What do you all think?
What do you all think?
I had a rusty blade on a new mill I purchased and it was the best blade I had. It wasn't pitted, just rusty.
Anyone old enough to remember the old plymouth and dodge six cylinders, back in the 50's and 60's? Ever see any paint on them? Chrysler left them set in the weather for three to six months to cure them before putting them in vehicles. and even though their cranks were weak those engine blocks were hard.:fart:
If the band is set properly then check the tension . Did you tension the band so the indicator just lines up with the white mark ?
Dan Dill
ArboristSite Operative
No.....please explain?
Dan , if you don't have a owners manual then download one . http://www.ripsaw.com/manuals/ripsawmanual.pdf On the back left side there should be a tension indicator that is a metal strip that reaches over the topof the saw . When tension is applied the beam bends to move the tension indicator and there is a groove on top with white paint that aligns the indicator when the band is properly tensioned .
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