RUSTY RipSaw blades

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Even though it's not mentioned in the manual, I was told by the folks at Better Built to loosen the 3/4" nut on the idler tracking bracket (pg 12 in the pdf) before applying tension to the band and before letting the tension off when you done using it. And, always store the saw without tension on the band.
 
dull blades

Dan before you make adjustmente to the saw , sharpen the blades, the hook angle of the teeth, and the set could be wrong for hardwood.
Grampa
 
Okay, I need more help now! I ran it today and made two cuts. The first one the saw started to ride up in the middle and cut uneven so it was convex. The second cut rode down in the middle and was concave. WHAT in the *()&*()^&*()^&*() am I doing wrong???!!!???!!!???!!!???

As scottr already pointed out, this is CLASSIC undertension. I have often been milling with the ripsaw and it started to bow like that, and simply increasing the tension solved the problem. Also note that with the Ripsaw, when the blades start to get dull, even though they still cut through the wood, if you push it too fast, it will do that convex/concave cutting also. Simply slow down and don't rush that saw down the log. You can get away with that when the blade is new and sharp, but when it starts to get dull you have to slow down or it will wander like that.
 

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