Rx for Deeply Planted Sick Trees

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Guy Meilleur

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Called so many times to sick trees: mal-grown, misplanted and overmulched miseable trees. Paid to write a treatment protocol so here it is; any thoughts?


September 8th 2004 I inspected declining maples. Root excavation revealed a varying degree of root girdling (wrapping around the stem), and stem decay. Primary cause was nursery defect, where soil was heaped over the original root zone. Aggravating cause was improper installation, when trunk flare was not exposed and roots were not straightened or cut if too severe to straighten. (see New Tree Planting info sheet)

An ongoing aggravating factor on these maples and all other trees on the campus has been the practice of repeatedly placing mulch on the trunk, which is incompatible with any industry standards. (see Proper Mulching Techniques info sheet) Secondary girdling roots growing through decomposed mulch were found, and the decaying organic matter placed on the trunk caused or at least accelerated the Phytophthora trunk infection. Curing these infections is uncertain and costly, so cultural practices must be geared to avoid them.

Every tree on the campus should have its trunk flare visible. If it is not, it is necessary to excavate around the root collar until it can be seen. Some of the maples have formed adventitious roots above the trunk flare. If these are vigorous, they should not be removed. Root excavation shall only be done by trained personnel. Cherry and zelkova trees near the entrance exhibit the same syndrome. The cherries are in decline due to these defects, and poor drainage. Surrounded on three sides by a wall, their prognosis is poor unless a drainage system is installed.

Campus-wide, a further aggravating condition has been the practice of limiting the area of earth dedicated to tree root function, even as the growing trees demand more resources. Mulch areas should be just beyond the line beneath the branch tips. This is called the “drip line”, because it is where the water drips off the tree. This water is needed by the tree, so turf should not be cultured inside that line. Turfgrass also takes away nutrients needed by the tree, and exudes allelopathic chemicals that retard the growth of tree roots. Also, any weedkiller applied to the lawn retards the growth of trees, the biggest “broadleaf weeds” in the lawn. (see Turf and Trees info sheet)

Expanding the mulched area around the individual trees will improve their health and performance. It will also reduce maintenance needs and the appearance of the plants, since less pruning of lower branches will be required. Following are general recommendations for managing the trees to avoid any more losses, and to increase their value and contribution over time.

TREE CARE RECOMMENDATIONS

1. Excavate around all new plantings to expose trunk flare. Excavation is most quickly and thoroughly done with compressed air. Remove any girdling or adventitious roots that the tree does not need to survive. Excavate any decayed areas in the trunk—all this shall be done by experienced personnel only. The black lesions are caused by Phytophthora fungus or another decay-causing organism. Lesions should be excavated of dead material and may be disinfected with hydrogen peroxide, properly diluted. Any tree with lesions should be treated with a basal drench of Subdue or Alliette fungicide, following label directions. Applying Cambistat (paclobutrazol) tree growth regulator at the same time may retard fungal activity and shunt tree resources toward fine root production.

2. Remove pinestraw mulch beyond dripline. Broadcast time-release fertilizer according to soil test results. Apply 4-6”, deeper where roots are exposed, of aged mulch between the raised ring of earth that was formed at the time of planting and the dripline. In areas where aesthetics are a major consideration, the pinestraw can be reapplied over the top of the aged mulch. Overall, pinestraw use should be curtailed, since it is more acidic and less insulating than other mulch. It is also poorer in nutrients and poorer in microbial activity, which is highly beneficial to the tree’s health and growth rate. All the above work is best done early in the dormant season, October-December.

3. When the leaves are off, assess branch architecture and prune dead, dying, diseased, damaged and interfering branches, not to exceed 25% of the total crown. Do not remove lower branches unless absolutely necessary, as this can cause bark death by sunscald. (see Mature Tree Care info sheet). Late in the winter, a second broadcasting of fertilizer at the approved rate may be beneficial. At that time, a restorative pruning on the ice-damaged landmark water oak, Quercus nigra, at the entrance would greatly improve its health and appearance

This concludes my preliminary recommendations. I am free to clarify anything above, and recommend contractors for the air excavation or other work that will not be done in-house.
 
Yeah steal away; as for the translation, you're on your own. It was written for folks at an academy, but has to be followed by a turf-worshipping neanderthal landscraper, so there are more lowfalutin' words than highfalutin.

any particular terms that aren't clear? Anything that sounds wrong to do/not do?

Haven't posted much cuz me and Dan TreeCo were chasing Frances; 2 married men chasing a wild woman like that, you'd think we'd get into trouble but we did OK.
 
Hurricane Lessons

Very Excellent!

M'Lady points to too frequent watering in the lawn areas for proper encouraged root depth for trees; as yet another growth response we alter.

We have seen many uprooted trees, mostly from buried crowns and effects mentioned; also in this condition, the only connection (crown) is not inspectable for damage. But, some due to the soft ground just giving the tree up! Especially small trees that don't seem to have the mass, nor anchoring to resist movement, but still catch wind. The ground connection would be the point of problems, as any other connection point; roots or soil can be soft i think.

The next most likely failure from storms here recently, was classic codominates/ Tight V's; with included bark pushing joint apart; then obvious rot.

Handle these mostly observable structral failures before our recent storms; and trees would have instilled even more faith and wonder i think. It seems that we are lucky to be in a time, where that is almost possible!

Nice meeting you and TreeCo on your journey; informative as all ways!

-KC
 
Looks great and is quite easy to understand, the only thing that stood out to me, a guy with little knowledge and experience, is the word "poorer" just dont like that word for some reason and sorry I cannot think of a good alternative at the moment...but I woudl steal it too.
 
Originally posted by JJackson
the word "poorer" just dont like that word for some reason and sorry I cannot think of a good alternative at the moment...
Yeah the word is hard to say; too many "r"s I guess. But I wanted to carry the concept that nutrients and microbes in soil are like wealth in the tree's bank account. "less rich" just doesn't communicate as well, does it?

This gives the phrase "dirt poor" a new meaning, eh? It describes the compacted-clay-with-a-pinestraw-coating that some of us know and love.
 
Another case for the Natural ease of mulch...

In philosophies of exercising; both eastern and western have some tenements of the body being filled with eletrolytes; that should be cycled as any other battery of energy, to near complete exhaustion; then recharging. One source specifically pointed to tree climbing as an all exhausting exercise (as swimming, gymnastics etc.). Total exhaustion, good food and deep sleep, for this natural cycling and thereby well being etc.

Shigo's speaks in parallel of the tree system as a battery of storage of food energy, collecting as it can; using stores from the charged 'battery' when it(tree) can't 'feed'. Root hairs that do all the root absorbtion, are so delicate they live ~10 days (unless infected by mychorhizae fungi, then much longer); the root hairs 'sprout in response to the water/ rain. Then not again until more rain etc. The delicate root hairs die in the interim, and become part of the slime that borders between liquid and solid root hair, that which really root feeds the tree; the rhyzosphere.

Well watered lawns up to a tree (or any other over watering); i think can make shallow roots, by too easily available water, too much water low (no air as water displaces it), erosion etc. But, if the tree is like a battery , and should be cycled thru charge/discharge; as it's root hairs seem even set for in their response to rain, and short life; overwatering could give yet another complication in this arena i think.
 
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