Sachs dolmar 153??? Value???

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Poulan_man85

Poulan_man85

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Hello i have the chance to buy a fairly clean running sachs dolmar 153 with 28 inch bar, the price is $250 saw appears to be in good running condition, i like older large cc saws and want to know if this is a deal or should i wait, i dont need the saw but would like to have for my collection, how rare are these? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
 
fairly rare... Dolmar made the 152/153 and they don't share parts with any other saws except the Poulan 5500 and 6000 (dolmar built Poulans). I will say they are extreamly hard to get parts for but if it runs and cuts I would definitely pick it up for $250. Keep in mind that price is cheap for a 100cc saw. I have one and a parts saw and hoping to make one runner from the lot. I have not ran mine yet but hear that they are not as fast or strong as other 100cc saws of this vintage. Husky 2100 and Poulan Pro 655Bp's for instance would be more powerful saws with a little easier to get parts. I would ask to take it out and run it for a full tank to get it hot. If the coil is weak it will probably loose spark when hot and the ignitions are super hard to come by. I would also check the clutch as they are even harder to come by. Lastly I would want to pull the muffler and inspect the cylinder. I've seen plenty of saws run on a 1/2 scored piston. Check intake and exhaust sides and maybe pull a compression number. I think the air filter elements can still be found if it needs one but again that's extra cost. If the guy doesn't seem willing to let you check the saw out that much I would just politely tell him you are still very very interested in purchasing it, but it's a vintage saw with very hard to find parts so you need to be sure you know what your buying. If you do buy it I would keep it in a cool dry place to help preserve the coil/ign as long as possible. Dry basement with a dehumidifier on a shelf is a great place if possible.
 
Its coming from a saw shop, the guy knows his stuff and said it checks out, he thinks it needs a new clutch, i will have compresion test done while im there to confirm, he said the chain doesnt completely stop spinning but it might be tuned hi, either way a clutch shoudnt be much of an issue to get if need be right? Nothimg special about that part, hopefully everything checks out, i have a lust for vintage large cc saws, currently have a poulan 5200 and a 1957 pioneer IEL HC That is mint i just love that bark lol
 
No, bad clutch is a huge issue. Parts are NLA and the clutch on a 153 only came on the 153/152/5500/6000 and they didn't sell many of them. You would have to find new old stock or a used one in good condition. Needle in a haystack part to find.
 
Thats not good, i assume that should knock money off the asking price right? Worst case scenario? $200 still a good buy? He may not budge on the price
 
Btw my name is George and thank you for your help and insight, i am fairly new to this game and am learning every chance i get, i am a millwright by trade so i love working on things, chainsaws intrigue me and my collection is growing rapidly, currently have over 50 saws most of which run, my next thing is to get into porting/ tuning saws, i will be building a flow bench to test gains and soo on, i have ported motorcycle heads and 2 stroke atv heads but never a chainsaw, eager to try it out
 
It's still a good buy for $250 but the clutch shoes back then were more of a "Brake Pad" style clutch shoe with a pad material glued to the metal clutch. if the pad material is gone you need a new clutch all together. If the shoe material is there it may just be a clutch spring which is a easy fix but again the springs are NLA and hard to find. You may have to sit on the saw for 6mo - 3-4-5 years until the parts pop up on ebay. Of course if it is a low hour saw you may not have these problems and he might just need to turn the idle down to slow down the clutch RPM so it's not engaging at idle. If that doesn't work and it won't idle right he might be able to open the idle screw and then add more fuel at the "L" needle to slow the engine RPM down.

If none of that works you may be able to make your own spring but that would be a huge PITA since we dont know the OE spring rate. Last ditch attempt would be trying to remove a coil or two off the spring and re-bend a coil out to hook it together. IE: shorten the spring that's on it in order to add more tension. This adds even more problems b/c you dont know if it will hold or if it's too tight it will hold the clutch in up to higher RPM's.

Basically I would hope to tune it out at the carb. $250 is still a great price you'll just have to sit on it and wait for parts if needed. Also Ebay Germany might have what you need but you have to speak German to see if they will ship to USA.
 
90% of them were full wraps.

Missing inner bucking spike. its the same as in the outer spike so you can trace it onto plate steel and grind/cut it out.

I'd go for it but ask for a longer scabbard for it and a bar wrench. Stihl makes them up to 36" just like the one that's on it. Small bonus that's cheap for them to add into the deal for you. The bar nuts are probably an odd size and it will save you an extra $6-$8.

Test the chain brake too. Don't need any surprises later if it kicks back while your using it.
 
Nice dolmar. I have 1, no full wrap. I bought it from first owner.
It had no spark, bad wire from kill switch. Ignition on mine is the same as from a dolmar 133.

The only parts that i can't find in Europe are the clutch cover and crankshaft.

Regards
Manuel
 
nstueve said:
No, bad clutch is a huge issue. Parts are NLA and the clutch on a 153 only came on the 153/152/5500/6000 and they didn't sell many of them. You would have to find new old stock or a used one in good condition. Needle in a haystack part to find.
Click to expand...

I know where there is a brand new clutch for a 153.
 
Looks like i may have to pass on the dolmar unfortunately, gentleman called me yesterday with 300+ chainsaws he needs to sell, i got some really nice saws from him in the past so im gonna have to put my money there, if anyone is interested i can pass along info to them, saw is located near Philly pa and i dont think they will ship it, pm me for more info if interested, i would like to see the saw go to a fellow collector.
 
I will chime in because I built a 152 that was pulled out of a dumpster and I can tell ya that wrap handle set up for that model is tough to find...those saw are cool and sound great but they can have ....wait for it..."boschitis" they can loose spark hot not a big deal with some saws but if you got the electronic ignition plan on only running it for 20 min in the middle of the winter...seriously though...the insulation from on the ignition tends to degrade over time and shorts out at a spot where the coil primary wires come out of the epoxy over the casting and to the igniter if it will run hot you should be ok...that saw is a express lane to historic chainsaw addiction and should be respected as such. Think of going into the cave with darth vader...be warned but the journey if you choose to embark on it will enrich you life and your two stroke soul....religion man!!!

I think 250 is a bit steep but its all there and if it is a solid runner then...worth a thought. If you have big wood to cut and are not going to run more than a tank or so would be useful for you I would not milling with that saw it's just not the right thing to do...there are there are tons of good folks here that will help you with parts so I would not sweat that too much....

I have said my sermon
good luck
the can
 
I ended up passing on the deal, it was a bit of a drive but i did end up buying 10 saws from someone else, remington super 754, old sears direct drive, poulan,306sa homelite 410, jonsered 360, homelite c5 echo cs60s i believe, an old saw with a o&r 1hp engine, poulan 3400, red craftsman 3.7 all for $150!
 

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