mowoodchopper
Polar Bear
I have had the least problems with Dolmars then any of the saws Ive owned, second would be husky, then stihl, except for my 026s they are very trouble free. Anyway Id say Dolmar is still very dependable.
Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread
- Thread starter pioneerguy600
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I have had the least problems with Dolmars then any of the saws Ive owned, second would be husky, then stihl, except for my 026s they are very trouble free. Anyway Id say Dolmar is still very dependable.
roncoinc
Official Stihl Disser
You guys are awfull,i only have 8 of em.
would have another if i could find a CHEAP coil for my 6000
would like a hat also,my dealer wont even sell me one..he dont want to bother to order them. how much do the hats cost the dealers anyway ????
or should i say how much could they sell one for without losing money on the sale ??
would have another if i could find a CHEAP coil for my 6000
would like a hat also,my dealer wont even sell me one..he dont want to bother to order them. how much do the hats cost the dealers anyway ????
or should i say how much could they sell one for without losing money on the sale ??
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
The 116i and 120i mufflers etc are all the same. The difference the is obviously noticable ONLY when you put them side by side is the actual cylinder/barrel & fins arrangement, otherwise they look identical. There shouild be a I.D tag below the clutch, the later ones have a 2 digit number for the year of manufacture. Later the better in my view. (has torx head bolts/screws)
The 120si has a chrome plated bore/barrel made by MAHLE, the 116i has Niksal bore/barrel. The 120si has 'MAHLE' cast on the outside at the square base of the barrel(should be able to see it) I think on the chain side. The
116si's that I have, don't have manufacturer cast ID's that I could identify. Either one are very good,
Looking at both barrels, I'd go far as to say the porting on the 116si is a bit wilder but the 120si has a lotta torque and revs.
Make sure the saw has got a choke lever that rotates 180 degress. If it pulls out or has a primer bulb, it is not an "si".
Thanks sachsman. I need all the help I can get. I wanted to pick up he two missing bolts, I know the muffler bolt is a M6x55, but the other I'm not sure what size it is coz I can't find it on the IPL.
This one appears to have allen head bolts.
The chassis is a si coz it has the twist lever. I guess it's hooked up to the carb. I'm just wanting to make sure that it's a 120si coz I bargained for and will be paying a premium for that model in running condition.
Anywho, if anyone can shine a little light on that bolt size that's been replaced/filled in by a slotted panhead bolt I'd appreciate the info.
I'm curious if the threads have been stripped or if the bolt on there now is even the same threads.
I'm leaving for my Louisiana road trip early am Wednesday and need to pick up the stuff I'm taking manana.
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Can you tell us which bolts you are looking for, what they hold in place or what they hold together. M5 and M6 are the most used bolts on that size saw.The length depends on what the connect together.
Pioneerguy600
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
Hey Jerry,
Look at my pic. It's the second bolt above the oil cap that's closer to the top left starter recoil assembly bolt than the bottom left starter recoil assembly bolt.
You can't miss that too long shiny panhead sticking out like a sore thumb.
I'm not sure what it holds together other than the front halves of the body.
On the other side the dog is bolted to the body.
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It looks like there's a hole/channel in the bottom of the muffler that this bolt goes through or maybe the muffler is on a radius at the back and this bolt goes behind the muffler to the other side.
The guy has e-mailed me a few times & confirmed that it's 3/8 chain. He unboxed it, put the B/C back on and said it fired up on the fourth pull.
Look at my pic. It's the second bolt above the oil cap that's closer to the top left starter recoil assembly bolt than the bottom left starter recoil assembly bolt.
You can't miss that too long shiny panhead sticking out like a sore thumb.
I'm not sure what it holds together other than the front halves of the body.
On the other side the dog is bolted to the body.
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It looks like there's a hole/channel in the bottom of the muffler that this bolt goes through or maybe the muffler is on a radius at the back and this bolt goes behind the muffler to the other side.
The guy has e-mailed me a few times & confirmed that it's 3/8 chain. He unboxed it, put the B/C back on and said it fired up on the fourth pull.
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Ok, that is the side mounted muffler bolt, there is a boss welded to the side of the muffler into which fits a M5 x 12 machine screw, if that screw is missing there is no real problem operating the saw, it provides a little extra support for the muffler but not really necessary. I have seen many saws run for years with this screw missing however all my saws have them.
Pioneerguy600
What Jerry said !!
If you like to repair older saws of the magnesium era, it's good to have M5 helicoil thread repairs at hand to repair worn out threads. At least every saw I find needs a few thread repairs, and the V-coil repair set does a wonderful job at that.
sachsmann
ArboristSite Lurker
Use this link, www.atlanticpowerinc.com/web/e-parts/search/?mfg=1&cat=6&model=120si
Part number is 994 005 127, M5x12 cap screw. I thinks it is still available..
The muffler set ups through out the range are very similar and do interchange through most models. In most cases the height varies, bigger the size (cubic capacity) bigger the muffler. The 'euro' spec mufflers are quieter, sound better and i thing run better too, but don't have spark arrester.
Hope that some help. can download and print off too! Much easier to read.
Peter
Part number is 994 005 127, M5x12 cap screw. I thinks it is still available..
The muffler set ups through out the range are very similar and do interchange through most models. In most cases the height varies, bigger the size (cubic capacity) bigger the muffler. The 'euro' spec mufflers are quieter, sound better and i thing run better too, but don't have spark arrester.
Hope that some help. can download and print off too! Much easier to read.
Peter
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
Jerry, Belgian & Peter thank you for the response providing the technical information.
Knowing that bolt affixes into the side of the muffler allows me to guesstamate the length at 14-17mm.
It's missing a muffler flange bolt, but I can use the remaining bolt as a pattern.
If I can't find MAHLE on the outside of the jug then I'm going to take the muffler off and measure w/6" pocket rule in order to see if I have a 46 or 49mm piston.
Thanks for that little nugget of info coz I'd rather not pull the muffler & now it might not be required.
Nothing against the 116si, yet I have a 60cc saw and at this juncture need the 68cc 120si to pull a 2' b/c evah now n then.
I'd like to be able to cut cookies w/o having to walk around to the other side of the trunk.
Thanks for the link as well.
I'll take a peek under the clutch for ID.
Knowing that bolt affixes into the side of the muffler allows me to guesstamate the length at 14-17mm.
It's missing a muffler flange bolt, but I can use the remaining bolt as a pattern.
If I can't find MAHLE on the outside of the jug then I'm going to take the muffler off and measure w/6" pocket rule in order to see if I have a 46 or 49mm piston.
Thanks for that little nugget of info coz I'd rather not pull the muffler & now it might not be required.
Nothing against the 116si, yet I have a 60cc saw and at this juncture need the 68cc 120si to pull a 2' b/c evah now n then.
I'd like to be able to cut cookies w/o having to walk around to the other side of the trunk.
Thanks for the link as well.
I'll take a peek under the clutch for ID.
sachsmann
ArboristSite Lurker
Glad to help. Peter
Peter
If I can't find MAHLE on the outside of the jug then I'm going to take the muffler off and measure w/6" pocket rule in order to see if I have a 46 or 49mm piston.
Nick, When you want to measure a bore through the exhaust port just take a piece of solder, Put it through
the port to the other side of the cylinder and turn the motor over so the piston comes up and makes a mark on the solder. Remove and measure. Very simple.
Lee
Nick, When you want to measure a bore through the exhaust port just take a piece of solder, Put it through
the port to the other side of the cylinder and turn the motor over so the piston comes up and makes a mark on the solder. Remove and measure. Very simple.
Lee
Yes solder, drinking straw,swizzel stick , coffee stir stick or about any soft thin long piece of material will work quite well, like Lee said very simple and fairly accurate for in the field testing bore diameter.
Pioneerguy600
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for the tip Leeha. I happen to have a stick or two of Sil-Fos around the house.
The little pocket steel ruler has a T-clip that allows you to secure it in a shirt pocket and use the, 90 degree to the ruler, T for fairly accurate, 32", measurement.
Plus it's marked in MM as well, but I can see the merit in marking the solder and measuring.
I asked the guy to pull the clutch cover and look for the MAHLE cast on the bottom of the jug, on at least one of the sides.
If it has to have that mark to be a 120/68cc jug/piston then that could save me a trip turned to joyride.
I'd buy a 116si, but not for the premium price I offered on the 120si.
The little pocket steel ruler has a T-clip that allows you to secure it in a shirt pocket and use the, 90 degree to the ruler, T for fairly accurate, 32", measurement.
Plus it's marked in MM as well, but I can see the merit in marking the solder and measuring.
I asked the guy to pull the clutch cover and look for the MAHLE cast on the bottom of the jug, on at least one of the sides.
If it has to have that mark to be a 120/68cc jug/piston then that could save me a trip turned to joyride.
I'd buy a 116si, but not for the premium price I offered on the 120si.
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks Jerry. I'm tired and not thinking as clearly as usual.
1-M6x55 stove bolt + flat washer--Exhaust flange
1-M5 x 12 allen head--Bottom muffler
1-M6x55 stove bolt + flat washer--Exhaust flange
1-M5 x 12 allen head--Bottom muffler
Hope you make out well on getting the saw and that it is really a 120Si. I think I lost mine to a good friend that I recommended him getting one, he borrowed mine to try one out and now I can`t pry it back outa his hands. Guess I will have to settle for money.
Pioneerguy600
Now you guys can appreciate the problems I encounter on all these old Macs with them SOB imperial bolts and stuff....sometimes I dissect a Mac carcass just to have some spare bolts....:monkey:
Really helps to have a 5 gallon bucket of spare bolts to dig through as I now have 100 of those plastic tray organizers filled with spare screws. Just wish I had started saving them earlier when we junked 200-300 saws a year and sold them for scrap. I can see where it would be hard for you European guys to find OEM Imperial thread fasteners, we have a wee bit of a scrounge to find metric but its getting easier all the time and metric is the now and modern fasteners still available through the dealers.
Pioneerguy600
nicksterdemus
ArboristSite Operative
I know it's an si & it's probably a 120, just w/mix n match parts I wanna be sure.
The MAHLE casting was a killer tip.
What years did they make the 116si & 120si?
What does si stand for if anything?
What's a siH?
I've found IPL from 90 & 94.
Maybe I need to start a si lovers thread.
Why I love the S-D si...
The MAHLE casting was a killer tip.
What years did they make the 116si & 120si?
What does si stand for if anything?
What's a siH?
I've found IPL from 90 & 94.
Maybe I need to start a si lovers thread.
Why I love the S-D si...
I have always been told and read that the Si stood for Super injected.
I have yet to see the SiH you posted so no info on that.
About 2 years after I bought my 120 Super the Si came out so like 1987 and I last heard of them around 94.
Pioneerguy600
