sandvic bar i.d. and how do i tighten rivots holding the nose on?

[cobey]

The bar is off a Homelite 360, 83D, 11Z321-70 .050 3/8 70D. Didn't know what to replace it with, or how to tighten the rivot on the replaceable nose, it didn't seem to be worn out. Thanks Cobey

 

[z50guru]

Im sure some one here has a better solution for tightening a bar tip, but ive always just found a solid flat surface such as an anvil, and give a couple whacks with a hammer on the rivets. It seems to "mushroom" the rivets a bit and works well for me.

 

[cobey]

Thanks I tried to use a C clamp it didn't work. Don't want to replace it if I don't have to, but might get an 18" bar also :smile2:

 

[procarbine2k1]

Im sure some one here has a better solution for tightening a bar tip, but ive always just found a solid flat surface such as an anvil, and give a couple whacks with a hammer on the rivets. It seems to "mushroom" the rivets a bit and works well for me.

x2, same way I do it as well.

 

[cobey]

Is this different than a A095 small husky mount bar?

 

[cobey]

seached every part unber and found nothing do they make these bars anymore?

 

[Stihl 041S]

To tighten rivets I use the end of a tap with a ground point. Like a 3/8"

I've been using one for 13-15 years in hard stainless.

Great center punch. Fine surface. No stress risers. Metal flows nice. Never needs sharpening. I covered it with a piece of heat shrink.

 

[Fifelaker]

I use two bfh's one to set it on the other to drive it home.

 

[Stihl 041S]

I use two bfh's one to set it on the other to drive it home.

That's the way to set them!!!!

 

[Vibes]

seached every part unber and found nothing do they make these bars anymore?

All the Sandvik bars I've ever had seemed to be rebadged Windsors. I have a 16'' 3/8ths in large mount Husky. It has the same tip as a Windsor.

 

[Nardoo]

It is not very often that I can reply in this forum: 'use a hammer' but this is one. Ball peen hammer on a hard steel block/anvil/vice.

 

[cobey]

thanks all :msp_biggrin:

 

[zombywoof]

Sandvik bars

The Sandvik Windsor "ST" style bars were the same bars as the original Windsor bars. These were, and still are (when you can find them) the best bars on the market. The Tsumura bars and sugi hara bars are good but they do not have that original Windsor nose. These were all rivet construction and held up great. Now, to screw things up even more, the cheap quality Windsor bars that were made by Oregon have come back branded as Carlton. These have the spot welded noses instead of the riveted noses.

To answer your question, I have always laid the bar on an anvil and used a dull center punch to hammer a dimple in the center of the rivet. This expands the rivet from the inside out and fills in the voids nicely.

 

[galde]

Every used bar that leaves my shop gets, among other things, the nose sprocket inspected and tightened if needed. If a spread-out nose is not fixed promptly, then total failure is likely to happen soon. I use a straight-edge or I sight down the bar and decide which side is bent the most. This is the side that will get the initial rivet clinching. I place a 5/8" thick plate of steel vertically against the rear jaw of the vise and place the bar nose in the vise so that the rivet heads are just above the vise jaws. I clamp the bar tightly to the plate with a C-clamp a few inches above the rivets. When I tighten the vise the rivets to be re-clinched are backed by the steel plate and are pushed outward ready to be re-shaped with a punch. I don't hit the rivets squarely, but work around the outer edge with a slight tilt of the punch to form a shoulder on the rivet edge. This lets me end up with a like-new nose that doesn't need further straightening. Hitting a rivet head squarely without first clamping the laminations together can result in the rivet being swelled in the area between the laminations, which will prevent any further tightening.

 

[pdqdl]

I use two bfh's one to set it on the other to drive it home.

Yep. Works best if use a ball pein to do the setting.