Saw firewood guide and tach comments

[KMB]

I've been looking for an easy, quick way to measure firewood (16") on the go while cutting. I did a search here on AS for firewood gauges/guides for saws, and found some interesting info on homemade rods, manufactured rods, and use of a saws bar. Does anybody have experience using this product? (I hope I do the link attachment properly):

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200320749.htm

It's also sold at Bailey's (in the chainsaw parts and tools section, in the chainsaw parts and accessories sub-section) for $9.95 plus shipping. Also shows the parts better at the Bailey's website.

Also I have done a search on saw tuning with a tach. Saw in question is my 260 which I recently opened the muffler and did the carb swap. I've been to the Madsen's website and read the threads on how to tune a saw by ear, and I feel like I've got it right. I'm curious about exactly what the actual RPM's are. Does anybody have experience with this tach:

http://www.sendec.com/SenDEC+Produc...roducts/STS-5000+Shop+Tachometer/default.aspx

It's also sold at Bailey's (in the chainsaw parts and tools section, in the chainsaw parts and accessories sub-section) for $69.95 plus shipping. Maybe I'll go into town, to one of my local dealers, and see if they'll put their tach on my saw. BTW, I've tried the 16" bar with RM chain, very nice! I know a RS chain will be even better.

Kevin

 

[glenn12]

I don't have the same measuring stick you show but i have one that bolts directly to the saw onderneath using the handle mounting bolts. It comes around 24" and you cut it to the size you want. I have them on my stihl, husky and pioneer and they work perfectly on each saw. They are only around $4 in Canada. They come in white or orange and i prefer the orange. You start cutting from the left end of the log with mine because it sticks out the other side of the saw than the one you show although i guess you could turn it around too.

 

[DeanBrown3D]

I get a hatchet and chip out a little 'V' in the bark at regular intervals (for me its 22 inches) using a metal ruler with a heavy black mark on it at 22". Anything over 24 wont go in the splitter.

I find it better to go and do this manually, since you:

a) Get a good close look at and around the tree.
b) Can chip off any mud at the same time.
c) Can plan and skip sections with heavy knotting (which wont split straight).
d) Get a quick break from sawing.

Just my 0.02

Dean

 

[KMB]

I'm not really wanting something sticking out the side of my saw unless it is flexible and non breakable because I'm often limbing at the same time I'm blocking.

Since I'll be mostly cutting leftover oak tops, I'll also have to do quite a bit of limbing also. Something to think about, thanks. I could do all the limbing first, then put on the rod and so on. Might get old though. With my 16" bar, I can put the crankcase at the end of the log, then move the saw around on the bar nose (with the chain not moving of course) to face the log for the next cut. If I was using the 20" bar, I could make a mark at 16" on the bar, and use a similar technique - but adjusting to where the mark would be. Thanks guys for sharing your techniques and reasons.

Kevin

 

[TRUSSMAN]

I just got one of those tach's sold by Bailey's, seems to be a good tach.
Jeff

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I use the bar length trick. Works well and nothing extra to put on your saw.

Jeff

 

[KMB]

The more I think about it, the less I like the idea of having something hanging off my saw. I don't like anything that might slow me down unnecessarily. And the rod might cause an accident while limbing.

Kevin

 

[KMB]

I just got one of those tach's sold by Bailey's, seems to be a good tach.
Jeff

Thanks for that.

Kevin

 

[turnkey4099]

I make mine out of 1/8" x 3/4" flat bar stock drilled to fit the bar mount bolts. Use it both limbing and bucking. Yes, it occasionally is awkward limbining with it but not all that often. I actually find it is more of a problem carrying it around in the brush. It is amazing how much stuff that bar sticking out can catch on no matter how you carry the saw.

Is it faster than other methods? Yes. The bar method calls for turning the saw twice before beginning cutting, with the guide it is finish one cut and start the next, no waste motion.

Is it worth it? It is to me but when I first starte using them years ago I had my doubts. I wouldn't go back.

One big advantage to the guide when making firewood is limbing. Cutting limbs to lenght by Mark1 eyeball results in some real off-size chunks and you can't use many of the other methods when cutting above shoulder level. Much better to cut chunks to length while they are still in the air than cut em free and then buck with em on the ground (that refers to limbing after the tree is on the ground).

I might have to go to Bailies for that one though. The Stihl nuts are embedded in a recess on the clamp cover, my homemade ones can't fit there. Until I do buy commercial I guess I will have to keep using my 16" marking stick and advance it with each cut when using the ms310 or 041. Husky 51 still lives almost 90% of the time with the guide.

Harry K

 

[jp hallman]

When I cut firewood I use my loggers tape and a lumber crayon. Two things I have already anyway. There's a "red diamond" every sixteen inches so it's fast and easy. I did try a lazer site that I took off a pistol. Worked for a while but the saw's vibrations killed the thing.

 

[KMB]

I make mine out of 1/8" x 3/4" flat bar stock drilled to fit the bar mount bolts. Use it both limbing and bucking. Yes, it occasionally is awkward limbining with it but not all that often. I actually find it is more of a problem carrying it around in the brush. It is amazing how much stuff that bar sticking out can catch on no matter how you carry the saw.

Is it faster than other methods? Yes. The bar method calls for turning the saw twice before beginning cutting, with the guide it is finish one cut and start the next, no waste motion.

Is it worth it? It is to me but when I first starte using them years ago I had my doubts. I wouldn't go back.

One big advantage to the guide when making firewood is limbing. Cutting limbs to lenght by Mark1 eyeball results in some real off-size chunks and you can't use many of the other methods when cutting above shoulder level. Much better to cut chunks to length while they are still in the air than cut em free and then buck with em on the ground (that refers to limbing after the tree is on the ground).

I might have to go to Bailies for that one though. The Stihl nuts are embedded in a recess on the clamp cover, my homemade ones can't fit there. Until I do buy commercial I guess I will have to keep using my 16" marking stick and advance it with each cut when using the ms310 or 041. Husky 51 still lives almost 90% of the time with the guide.

Harry K

Thanks for your info. I myself don't cut above shoulder height - unless I really want the piece of wood and then I'm very careful on the one cut I make to get the wood down on the ground. But I have come across 'firewood size limbs' that I have cut in the air (much lower than shoulder height), where it would have been nice to have a measuring guide. There's pros and cons, depending on each individual. I think I'll try the bar length trick first, and if I find it to slow for my liking, I'll order the guide. Up until this year, I've been cutting firewood just for myself. But I'm going to try to sell some firewood this year, so I want to cut to a uniform size.

Kevin

 

[wagonwheeler]

I might have to go to Bailies for that one though. The Stihl nuts are embedded in a recess on the clamp cover, my homemade ones can't fit there.

Or weld another nut outboard on the Stihl bar nut. Then you can make your own rod (even threaded rod to fit the nut) that threads onto this outboard nut. Weld a chain link or some flat bar to the rod near the base so you have a good 'wing' for turning it w/ gloves on. You can take it on and off in a jiffy.

O.K. I'm making one! Typed myself into it!

Too bad welding will kill a nylock...or maybe not...I'm gonna find out.

Chaser

 

[KMB]

Or weld another nut outboard on the Stihl bar nut. Then you can make your own rod (even threaded rod to fit the nut) that threads onto this outboard nut. Weld a chain link or some flat bar to the rod near the base so you have a good 'wing' for turning it w/ gloves on. You can take it on and off in a jiffy.

O.K. I'm making one! Typed myself into it!

Too bad welding will kill a nylock...or maybe not...I'm gonna find out.

Chaser

Sounds like a good idea. If it works for you, could you post pics of the end result. Thanks.

Kevin

 

[johnha]

I took a magnet out of an old computer hard drive. (How you get it can be very stress relieving.) They are quite powerful.

I then took a 1/2" dowel, cut it to 15" length, and drilled a small hole in one end. I screwed the dowel onto the metal that houses the magnet. I stick the magnet onto one of the bar nuts.

This gives me consistent 16" lengths by lining the end up with the log end. Different length dowels can be made for different length rounds.

The magnet is powerful enough that it stays on no problem when cutting.

YMMV, modify and attach things to your saw at your own risk.

 

[KMB]

I took a magnet out of an old computer hard drive. (How you get it can be very stress relieving.) They are quite powerful.

I then took a 1/2" dowel, cut it to 15" length, and drilled a small hole in one end. I screwed the dowel onto the metal that houses the magnet. I stick the magnet onto one of the bar nuts.

This gives me consistent 16" lengths by lining the end up with the log end. Different length dowels can be made for different length rounds.

The magnet is powerful enough that it stays on no problem when cutting.

YMMV, modify and attach things to your saw at your own risk.

I like that idea. Easy on and off. Will 'break-away' if needed as to not damage a bar stud. Inexpensive. Now, where to find an old computer hard drive with a strong enough magnet (or anything else which would have that strong of a magnet)...

Kevin

 

[buck futter]

Bar length advocate here, I don't know how many people know what I'm talking about when I use this term, but back when I would stump pile cedar. I would use a 3 cube saw with a 15 or 16 inch bar. two feet is somewhere around where the rear handle intersects with the saw body from the tip. I would have the bar length on top of the log and give the throttle a good blip to spin the chain and mark the two foot mark. I would go as far out as 10 foot for rails and normall y be within a inch of what I wanted. Of course when it costs you money to mis cut you want to make sure you are right so I would add a couple inches and they would end up aroung 10'4".

Lucky

 

[glenn12]

The measuring stick i'm talking about is plastic and very flexible. I have never had any trouble with it being in the way, even felling. It's the quickest way to buck firewood, period and it's not in the way when you are changing a chain.

 

[turnkey4099]

I like the magnet idea. Will probably try it. The problem with the ones I have and others that bolt on is the nuisance removing/replacing them. A lot of times I want the guide on when it isn't and will just eyeball vice taking the time to mount it. Same when it is on and I would prefer it off.

My homebuilt model is very flexible and easily bent, in fact is will deliberately bend it back to get clearance around a knot or shove it back in position if something catches it bends it too far. They also don't last all that long, vibration will make it crack at the right angle bend. I make them up 2 or 3 at a time and make the bend hot. Usually get at least one season each out of them.

Harry K

 

[johnha]

Harry,

The magnet is strong enough to stay on while cutting, but also pulls off easily by the dowels leverage. I've knocked it off a time or ten when cutting in tight quarters but not in normal use.

 

[t_andersen]

I have the tach you ask about, it works fine. What I don't like is that you can't change the battery, so I wonder how long it will last.