Saw gets so hot, that gas starts to boil

[Tree94]

Is there a way to increase airflow or somehow keep my saw cooler?

Here in Arizona, its already around 90 degrees or more outside and my saws sometimes get so hot, that the gas inside the tank starts to boil.

When you take the gas cap off, it exploded with pressure and the gas is just in there sizzling.
I literally have to take my bower, and blow the engine cool again, before I can get the saw to run..

Does everyones gas start to boil?
Any tips on how to keep it from doing this?

Thanks..

 

[Ozarker 1]

Cleaned all the crud out of the cylinder's fins, and from all around? Cleaned the crud out of the blades on the flywheel? Got any broken blades on that flywheel?

 

[CR888]

There are things you can do to run the saw cooler and maintemence of of the cooling system. What model is the saw in question? Does it have a CAT muffler, is carb needles tuned rich enough to cool engine. Air filter clean...properly clean? Cylinder fins got build up? Spark screen clean? Can air get into airbox without obstruction? Gaskets port matched? 'Winter/Summer' carb box slide in summer position? Timing alterered? Carbon build up? Clutch in good condition? Fuel lines not squashed and correct ID size? We need a bit more info to help but there are a few ideas.

 

[tla100]

My old Homelite Super XL Auto will do that when I use to run it hard, before I got my 440. Gas would boil, so I would grab the Super EZ and run a tank thru that while it cooled.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

90* in February, no freaking thanks! It hit almost 50* here a few days ago and I was on Amazon ordering a window A/C unit!

 

[Conquistador3]

Check you spark splug to see if the saw isn't running too lean.

 

[Bwildered]

Over summer here there wouldn't be a day where the fuel wasn't boiling in the CS tank, in the the 076 you can hear it popping away when the saw stops, it doesn't affect a good designed saw, the older husky 3120's do not like heat & won't start when the weather gets hot. Fuel starts to boil at around 35'C & some days we've hit that by 8:30 am so as long as the saw still runs don't worry about it.
Fansk

 

[CR888]

Vapour lock can be a real pita consequence & make thing difficult for hot restarts, but the op has not mentioned this to be an issue.

 

[mountainlake]

Make sure the fins and fan are clean, adjust the high a little richer and don't lug it down less than 9000 rpm. Steve

 

[Tree94]

thanks for the replies fellas.
The saw in question is a stihl 193t.
it's very new, so I doubt there could be much buildup on anything, but i'll check it all just to be sure.
I appreciate the responses!

 

[wde_1978]

1980's Sachs-Dolmar's 103/105/108 will boil the fuel in their little magnesium bellies, especially on hot summer days and when ran hard (in my case bucking logs 3 times the 14" bar length)!
Never had an issue with it other that one should NEVER open the fuel tank cap as long as there is fuel in it, and it is a bit tricky to refuel the saw while she's hot because the fuel immediately starts to boil.

I wouldn't worry about it unless it affects the saw/engine through erratic idle, bad throttle response or similar.
My Sachs-Dolmar 105 didn't seem to mind having a pressurized fuel tank, 30 years and still sporting factory fuel lines, carb boot and carb kit!
Very solidly built little bugger.

 

[Tree94]

a little more info..
when it gets hot like this, the saw will start... but when you go to give it gas, that's when it dies.

 

[wde_1978]

But it behaves properly when she's not hot?!

Is it possible the carb is set too lean?
Might be the reason for overheating.

I am just guessing as I am unfamiliar with any saws other then those in my sig.

 

[smokey7]

When it's that hot out and the saw is that hot I would surely tune it fatter. As said before make sure the cooling system is up to par. Then I'd say the saw is telling you it needs a rest and cool down to continue. It really does not take long for them to cool off maybe 30min without a blower. Then refuel, start let idle for a couple min for the carb to purge out air bubbles then go to work.

 

[67L36Driver]

Fuel gets to a rolling boil on 60 degree days. Don't remove cap till it quits.

 

[glock37]

Open up muff bigger than carb if possible clean jugg and flywheel so u have good airflow passed cyl


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[zogger]

193T..this is a brand new model? Wonder what stihl tech support might say..wonder if this is isolated or more common..

With that said, here's another million buck idea I can think of but not build....gets frustrating, but oh well...anywho, saw companies make arctic/winter models, but why not "tropic" models? Wouldn't take anything more than a flywheel change to one with more fins or more aggressive fins for added airflow and cooling.

 

[bikemike]

That new, wondering if I'd to tight, not broke inn and box stock lean for epa reasons

 

[Nitroman]

Okay, this is what you do.
1. Muffler mod, helps the motor run cooler.
2. Take the cover off the saw, if possible remove the jug so it'll be clean, but you'll want to use flat black paint to spray the jug so it'll radiate heat faster. Even better would be to have it anodized. That'd the shiz-nitz.
3. If possible, remove tank assembly, use aluminized-insulated reflective tape, available from Starting Line Products, to apply to surface of tank assembly to insulate from motor.
Your welcome.

 

[Chris-PA]

Okay, this is what you do.
1. Muffler mod, helps the motor run cooler.
2. Take the cover off the saw, if possible remove the jug so it'll be clean, but you'll want to use flat black paint to spray the jug so it'll radiate heat faster. Even better would be to have it anodized. That'd the shiz-nitz.
3. If possible, remove tank assembly, use aluminized-insulated reflective tape, available from Starting Line Products, to apply to surface of tank assembly to insulate from motor.
Your welcome.

LOL - the man's from Alaska.........