More questions....
I was doing more stove research today and was goin to replace my old garage stove with an Englander NC13 or 17VL. I found the Century S244 at Menards for $450. I got to looking at it close, and measured the bricks to make sure they were standard size. (Sometimes box store stoves have weird size bricks)...So has anybody any experience with one of these? For the price its kinda hard to beat for a garage/backup stove.
On a slightly seperate note, I got my NC30 from an old lady that didnt know any better. The 5/8" high density gasket was leaking a little, I suspect because the door had been latched shut for almost 2 years strait. So I tore it off before I knew none of the local stove stores had any high density gasket. So in a pinch I had to use 3/4" low density gasket, and had that worked ok I would have just left that on but after about a week it compressed too much and started sucking air under the door. After I got the new 5/8" HDG from Englander, the little gap at the latch came back. So I opened the door after the stove cooled off a little and stuck my face in the stove so I could see what was really wrong. From the facory the door hinges were welded on the face of the stove a full 1/4" too far to the left, so when you close the door, the gasket doesn't cover the little half-moon cutout. It's cut out so the latch rod misses the stove face. But there's way to much clearance. I called tech at Englander, explained the whole deal, (felt like I was singing Alice's Restraunt) and asked Englander what my options were.
1) The CORRECT way...pull the stove, flip on back, cut/reweld hinges.
2) Make a little half-moon piece of metal to weld in, and
3) My idea after I got off the fone was to bead up weld without making a piece then buff it down to shape.
Any brainiacs got any ideas?
the man wears out chainsaws,literally.
