Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[djg james]

OK, switching gears again, I got the piston out of the ORIGINAL log splitter engine. The piston is deeply scored so it's junk. The cylinder wall likewise is scored enough so a fingernail catches on it. I think that's how someone described it. Anyway, too deep, I believe, to hone it down. I'll probably keep the cylinder to practice on honing techniques before I try them out on my chainsaw that I'll likely have to do.



My question now is, for educational purposes, what might have caused this? I've always thought the lack of oil due to cold weather, but some disagree with that theory. Any others?
The rings on the side of the piston damage are nearly flush with the pistons as you would expect. The pistons are locked in place and do not rotate freely around the piston. This may be an effect of the failure??

 

[Jeffkrib]

I really hate looking at scored pistons and bores. It means pain!

 

[djg james]

I really hate looking at scored pistons and bores. It means pain!

Sorry, I didn't mean to distress you.

 

[MustangMike]

That just looks like aluminum transfer on the cylinder walls, but what do I know?

Try sanding it off.

 

[djg james]

That just looks like aluminum transfer on the cylinder walls, but what do I know?

Try sanding it off.

I plan to, if for nothing else, practice.

 

[MustangMike]

A few people came up to the cabin for my Birthday WE (Mostly family and a neighbor). We shot guns (had more rifles than people, plus several hand guns), cut + split wood, stained the outhouse's, and rode the ATVs and went sight seeing.

4 people shot the 348 (including my Niece) and all loved it and on one missed! We filled some 1 gallon milk jugs with water and the kids loved watching them explode!

My Niece now wants a 348, and told her husband she needs it for bear hunting!

When dropping a large Ash widow maker we had to remove a Hop Hornbeam, so we skinned the trunk and will use it for something! That skinny log is WAY heavier than it looks!

 

[Lee192233]

OK, switching gears again, I got the piston out of the ORIGINAL log splitter engine. The piston is deeply scored so it's junk. The cylinder wall likewise is scored enough so a fingernail catches on it. I think that's how someone described it. Anyway, too deep, I believe, to hone it down. I'll probably keep the cylinder to practice on honing techniques before I try them out on my chainsaw that I'll likely have to do.

View attachment 923305View attachment 923306

My question now is, for educational purposes, what might have caused this? I've always thought the lack of oil due to cold weather, but some disagree with that theory. Any others?
The rings on the side of the piston damage are nearly flush with the pistons as you would expect. The pistons are locked in place and do not rotate freely around the piston. This may be an effect of the failure??

Is the second compression ring broken where it's circled? Or am I just seeing aluminum smeared over it? If the ring broke that would score /seize the piston/cylinder in a hurry.

 

[Lee192233]

Are the rings carboned up and tight in their lands(grooves) where the aluminum isn't smeared over them? They should be free to move.

 

[djg james]

Is the second compression ring broken where it's circled? Or am I just seeing aluminum smeared over it? If the ring broke that would score /seize the piston/cylinder in a hurry. View attachment 923334

I see what you are talking about. I think it smear over, but I'll check closer tomorrow. Thanks

 

[djg james]

Are the rings carboned up and tight in their lands(grooves) where the aluminum isn't smeared over them? They should be free to move.

They (the rings) are freely moving every where except where they are smashed.

 

[djg james]

I started working on the REPLACEMENT engine to my log splitter over the week end. I ordered a new intake manifold, put new pop rivets in the pull cord assembly and restrung the pull cord. Then I addressed the broken carb mounting bolt that had been missing ever since I got it. I had to order easy out set, which turned out to be a piece of junk. It was suppose to be made out of hardened steel (like taps-I assumed). When I went to tap it into the hole to seat it, the threads of the tool just smashed over. Couldn't get it out despite heating the hole and treating with Mouse Milk and letting set overnight.

So I decided to drill and tap a new 1/4" x 20 hole. I used a 1/16" drill for the pilot hole and it was difficult despite using cutting fluid. Then OH SH!T! it went in. Too deep. I had drilled int the wall of the cylinder. I will clean up all the metal shavings first, then clean the hole as well as the threaded hole with hexane and then acetone. Supposedly they make a JB Weld Extreme Heat that will work to patch the hole. May have to order it. I'll pack it into the hole on the cylinder side until it flares a little on the threaded side of the hole. Once cured, it should act as a plug even if it fails to adhere to the hole walls on the cylinder side. The flair should keep it from drifting into the cylinder.

Anyone have other ideas or products?

View attachment 923278

On another forum I've posted this on, there is mixed opinions of whether or not I need to fill the hole on the cylinder side. Some say the bolt will prevent compression loss, others say the compression leaking through this hole at the top of the stroke might blow the bolt out. Any thoughts and how to? I really need to get my splitter going.

 

[Cowboy254]

When dropping a large Ash widow maker we had to remove a Hop Hornbeam, so we skinned the trunk and will use it for something! That skinny log is WAY heavier than it looks!

Maybe that's because the littlest family member was doing pull-ups off it

Sounds like a good weekend.

 

[JustJeff]

On another forum I've posted this on, there is mixed opinions of whether or not I need to fill the hole on the cylinder side. Some say the bolt will prevent compression loss, others say the compression leaking through this hole at the top of the stroke might blow the bolt out. Any thoughts and how to? I really need to get my splitter going.

https://www.harborfreight.com/gener...-vertical-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69731.html
This is how I would go on a tool that's going to heat my house.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

 

[djg james]

https://www.harborfreight.com/gener...-vertical-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69731.html
This is how I would go on a tool that's going to heat my house.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk

Yes, I saw that. Looks like it may only have a light weight fly wheel since in the ad it says "The ideal replacement lawn mower engine". Don't think it would be suitable for a splitter or pressure washer that require the heavy flywheel. And I'm not sure my B&S flywheel would fit.

HF did have a 6.5 HP vertical shaft engine for $130, but it's out of stock and can't be ordered online. That's why I'm trying to fix either of these engines. Keep the cost down since things are tight. Worse case, HF has a horizontal shaft engine and I'll convert my splitter.

 

[svk]

On another forum I've posted this on, there is mixed opinions of whether or not I need to fill the hole on the cylinder side. Some say the bolt will prevent compression loss, others say the compression leaking through this hole at the top of the stroke might blow the bolt out. Any thoughts and how to? I really need to get my splitter going.

At the minimum you’re going to need to do the bolt or maybe find a junked motor and use that case?

I haven’t kept up fully on this thread but didn’t you mention high temp epoxy too? What is the max temp on that?

 

[djg james]

At the minimum you’re going to need to do the bolt or maybe find a junked motor and use that case?

I haven’t kept up fully on this thread but didn’t you mention high temp epoxy too? What is the max temp on that?

Not sure I know what you mean by "do the bolt". It's the second of two carb mounting bolts and this was the whole point of drilling and tapping it out. So if so, yes, a bolt will be going back in. As for finding a junked case, I know of only one guy who keeps everything,but I doubt he would have a specific one. I'm frugal, but not that frugal to spend months looking for a used engine. I'll buy a horizontal and convert.

Now the high temp epoxy, JB Weld Extreme Heat, is rated for something like 1000 deg F.

 

[sean donato]

On another forum I've posted this on, there is mixed opinions of whether or not I need to fill the hole on the cylinder side. Some say the bolt will prevent compression loss, others say the compression leaking through this hole at the top of the stroke might blow the bolt out. Any thoughts and how to? I really need to get my splitter going.

The bolt isn't going to blow out from that little hole. A but of thread sealer and call it a day.

 

[sean donato]

Not sure I know what you mean by "do the bolt". It's the second of two carb mounting bolts and this was the whole point of drilling and tapping it out. So if so, yes, a bolt will be going back in. As for finding a junked case, I know of only one guy who keeps everything,but I doubt he would have a specific one. I'm frugal, but not that frugal to spend months looking for a used engine. I'll buy a horizontal and convert.

Now the high temp epoxy, JB Weld Extreme Heat, is rated for something like 1000 deg F.

Not hot enough for sombustiin temps. Your looking in the 1200 to 1400 degree range. Bellona and devcon both make appropriate epoxies for these temps, there is a company (can't remember the brand name) that makes a liquid steel epoxy stick that can sometimes be commonly found at hardware stores but I have no personal experience with it. As witnessed many times with guys doing muffler mods and not having welders or brazing equipment, the high temp jb weld doesn't hold up very well. I'd still vote to leave it.

 

[sean donato]

Another thought would convert from a bolt to a stud and loctite the stud in the hole.

 

[djg james]

Not hot enough for sombustiin temps. Your looking in the 1200 to 1400 degree range. Bellona and devcon both make appropriate epoxies for these temps, there is a company (can't remember the brand name) that makes a liquid steel epoxy stick that can sometimes be commonly found at hardware stores but I have no personal experience with it. As witnessed many times with guys doing muffler mods and not having welders or brazing equipment, the high temp jb weld doesn't hold up very well. I'd still vote to leave it.

Wow, I thought a 1000 deg F rating would be enough. JB claims the Extreme Weld can be used on engine blocks. Doing a search for epoxies and I did find one from Blue Magic that's good up to 2400 deg F.

"I'd still vote to leave it." Are you saying you'd do nothing, and leave the small hole? Maybe you already said that.