Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Good to see you are back trying to get this forum back on track. It's a big job, but I think you are back in form.
I'm trying! A few of the old time regulars don't post much any more so I hope some of the young blood can pick up the pace a bit.

They are weaning me off PT for my knee and I'm finally feeling like I think I should have felt about 10 months ago. It's not awesome, but it's better. So... I've been increasing my wheelbarrow and scrounging therapy to make up for losing the formal PT.
 
Going back through some pics on my phone so here’s some scrounge news.

My local tree lopper TXT’ed me ‘would you like a load of bottle brush and Melaleuca. Never burnt either of those so I figured lets give it a go. I think I may have made a mistake with the Melaleuca (paper bark) as the bark is mega thick, got the kids to remove bark with a hatchet. This stuff felt light and I have a feeling it may be very ashy so split it small to use as fire starter and gave away a fair bit.

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Also did two trips to the state forest. The MMWS 661 and PS7900 ran fantastic. So good having the big saw as most people head into the forest with Ms181’s and MS250’s. The big stuff is there for the taking.
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Yeah the help works for free so selling $5 parts is a huge profit center,....
I hate those sites that don't disclose freight without a mile of clicks too.
In seller's defense; There really is a $ significant cost to ship a part, it doesn't change much to ship 10 parts. So if selling parts is a profit center not just a customer convenience center a freight charge can work to improve dollar per sale numbers. Customer; I gotta order this but freight is high, might as well check and order other maint. parts I'll need sooner or later anyway to spread that freight cost out over $100 of parts instead of just $10.

A MC carb parts company (Nichecycle) sends out jets and other smalls USPS first class, at "cost", they get my business on bigger orders also.
I'll plug them again; pirateship is a great way to buy, print labels, and ship outgoing parts for us little dabblers in selling.
 
Tree puller: Interested to hear how it works for you. Looked at em but don't have enough of a use case to pull the trigger.
My plan is to use it for wicked brush removal. I will post the results on its use. If it doesn't work out as planned I can easily resell it. The seller had over 25 people message him on it in less than one day.
 
I turned down a scrounge yesterday . I know blasphemy but I have three years stacked and have that much in log form . By the time I get to some of it it’ll have turned .

Been working on my other project truck . All new rubber lines ,wheel cylinders , shoes and had the drums cut . Was experiencing what is called wet brake fade the fluid was contaminated with water and the boiling point was compromised . Absolutely no sign of drums and or shoes getting to hot to cause the fade . IMG_6959.jpegIMG_6960.jpeg
 
As I have posted before having problems with the evap system on my 04 Taco . At 510 miles it reset the computer and promptly threw a code . I’ve replaced the charcoal canister and several lines and put new clamps on all the rubber hoses and a new OEM gas cap . I’m getting ready to buy her a 25 year old truck and be done with all this emissions crap . NY doesn’t emissions test pre 98 vehicles just safety inspection . She wants a truck I tried to talk her into using the Cherokee I bought, nope ,

I have done the smoke test and found no other leaks and had a friends shop look at it and they found nothing either
What code? It could be the purge valve when commanded closed isn’t fully closed. Or the vent valve. If you have a decent scan tool, command both closed (seal system) the. Command the purge to open to 30%. You should see some vacuum in the tank via the pressure sensor. Then seal it again. If the pressure drops immediately it’s usually the vent is stuck open. If the pressure continues to climb, the purge isn’t closing

Wish you lived just a tad closer….
 
What code? It could be the purge valve when commanded closed isn’t fully closed. Or the vent valve. If you have a decent scan tool, command both closed (seal system) the. Command the purge to open to 30%. You should see some vacuum in the tank via the pressure sensor. Then seal it again. If the pressure drops immediately it’s usually the vent is stuck open. If the pressure continues to climb, the purge isn’t closing

Wish you lived just a tad closer….
It’s going to the garage again today . They did use the scanner that controls the system and found nothing . But it may be a new thing since we were monkeying around with it . Their scanner showed a faulty canister

I’m getting the PO442 evap small leak detected
 
I turned down a scrounge yesterday . I know blasphemy but I have three years stacked and have that much in log form . By the time I get to some of it it’ll have turned .

Been working on my other project truck . All new rubber lines ,wheel cylinders , shoes and had the drums cut . Was experiencing what is called wet brake fade the fluid was contaminated with water and the boiling point was compromised . Absolutely no sign of drums and or shoes getting to hot to cause the fade . View attachment 1107587View attachment 1107588
Dot 3 attracts water. I use Dot 4 or synthetic in everything I own or fix now.
 
Dot 3 attracts water. I use Dot 4 or synthetic in everything I own or fix now.

The difference between dot 3 and 4 is the boiling point and Dot 4 has a lower viscosity which works well with anti lock brakes . Dot 3-4 and 5.1 all attract water the dot 3 I use is synthetic but it’s still hygroscopic . Which keeps the water in suspension that’s why it should be flushed every few years .
The only one that doesn’t is Dot 5 full silicone fluid
People often confuse synthetic with silicone Dot 5 which can’t be used if dot 3,4 or 5.1 were used in the system without a full flushing silicone isn’t comparable with synthetic or petroleum based fluid
 
The difference between dot 3 and 4 is the boiling point and Dot 4 has a lower viscosity which works well with anti lock brakes . Dot 3-4 and 5.1 all attract water the dot 3 I use is synthetic but it’s still hygroscopic . Which keeps the water in suspension that’s why it should be flushed every few years .
The only one that doesn’t is Dot 5 full silicone fluid
People often confuse synthetic with silicone Dot 5 which can’t be used if dot 3,4 or 5.1 were used in the system without a full flushing silicone isn’t comparable with synthetic or petroleum based fluid
Thanks for that info. I thought 4 and up did not attract water. With closed systems, since a long time ago, one would think that finding water in the brake system would be very rare. I know it was always a problem back in the old days.
 
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SR
 
I thought 4 and up did not attract water. With closed systems, since a long time ago, one would think that finding water in the brake system would be very rare. I know it was always a problem back in the old days.
Only 5 doesn’t attract water . It still gets in via the fact every time you hit the brakes the fluid goes down in the master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir lid is vented if it wasn’t after a while you wouldn’t have brakes as the fluid level falls with pad ware

The Dot 5 was a big deal back in the late 70s and early 80s lots of guys put it in their classic rarely used cars . Great it doesn’t attract water but water gets into the master due to condensation . You use the car a couple of times the water being heavier than the fluid sinks .it’s then pumped into the lines .Still all good if you used SS lines . Now here’s the fun part the water makes its way to the caliper where it sits and start rust in the bore since the caliper is cast .

Seen a lot of hardly used cars need new calipers and cylinders much sooner than cars using dot 3 . Now if your driving a high end vehicle that has SS sleeves or SS Billet calipers alls good

As the chart shows the all have Glycol Ether except dot 5 . The 4and 5.1 have Borate Esters to increase the boiling point

https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/IMG_6966.jpeg
Car manufactures still use Dot 3 in most applications and recommend periodically flushing the system
 
The hydroscopic nature of glycol based DOT fluid is a desirable feature. Water will distribute evenly in solution with the DOT fluid, which raises the boiling point of the water. Silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid is primarily desirable for it's nonflammable, non corrosive properties. Because water will not absorb into silicone brake fluid, it will pool in low areas where it will boil off. Remember that gases are compressible, fluids are not. Once the water boils to vapor it can be compressed and you will get pedal fade. There are other systems that use mineral oil, which has similar advantages and disadvantages to DOT 5.
I would argue that water does not enter the system through the reservoir, since the reservoir cap is sealed with a rubber diaphragm to accommodate fluid volume change. Contaminants most likely infiltrate past the piston seals when the pistons retract back into the bore.
 

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