Seasoning time?
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wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can you get rid of some the two side walls?, keep enough for structural strength but let more airflow through for spring/summer/fall. The more air/sun you can get to the pile between now and when you need it the better.
The wood on the front will be ready in the fall, and the wood on the top will be good, the rest will be so-so.
I stack my wood under a tin roof, with three sides open, and it still dries out more in the basement, I fit about 4cords down there around turkey day.
The wood on the front will be ready in the fall, and the wood on the top will be good, the rest will be so-so.
I stack my wood under a tin roof, with three sides open, and it still dries out more in the basement, I fit about 4cords down there around turkey day.
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
When did you cut it? Stack it?
If in fall, then it should be fine for this fall, the oak might not be there but that depends on the size of you split wood.
If you just cut it, then it would benefit from being in a single/double row, in the sun and a cover on top only, to keep the rain off of it.
The cherry will season the quickest, based on my experience, I burn the same woods and it's always the oak for nighttime that I put a few pieces close to the wood furnace to get a little more MC out before burning. However, my split pieces are equivalent to 8"x8"x20" so if yours are smaller, then they'll be fine.
If you have the space, try and have one years worth ready and the second years drying, that'll give you an 18month drying window minimum, it's a common method.
If in fall, then it should be fine for this fall, the oak might not be there but that depends on the size of you split wood.
If you just cut it, then it would benefit from being in a single/double row, in the sun and a cover on top only, to keep the rain off of it.
The cherry will season the quickest, based on my experience, I burn the same woods and it's always the oak for nighttime that I put a few pieces close to the wood furnace to get a little more MC out before burning. However, my split pieces are equivalent to 8"x8"x20" so if yours are smaller, then they'll be fine.
If you have the space, try and have one years worth ready and the second years drying, that'll give you an 18month drying window minimum, it's a common method.
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Jimfound
ArboristSite Operative
I think you would be fine with the Maple and Cherry in the shed...it might help to stack it cross-hatch to get as much air flow as possible. You might think about keeping the Oak outside and then move it into the shed come fall/early winter. A roof of plywood or tarp just to cover the top maybe, but with oak, probably not essential if you move into the shed a couple weeks before burning.
How did you get the wood?...just a curious mind. Have fun...nothin like a full shed in the spring.
Jimfound
ArboristSite Operative
Nice deal...8-10 cords.
I really think you would be best off keeping the wood outside in the elements if you want to maximize the seasoning. Next fall is only 7 months away..sun and wind is free energy. You need something to wisk the moisture out of that wood!
What are you burning in...woodstove...outdoor wood boiler?
How wet was it when you cut it?
In my experience oak takes a good 24 months to dry to a burnable state when it doesn't have a substantial degree of sun exposure and airflow; maple and cherry aren't too far behind that. Softer maples and their relatives, like boxelder, will dry faster. Still, I'd give it at least a whole calendar year from the time it is cut to the time it is burned, unless you live in a very-low humidity environment.
In my experience oak takes a good 24 months to dry to a burnable state when it doesn't have a substantial degree of sun exposure and airflow; maple and cherry aren't too far behind that. Softer maples and their relatives, like boxelder, will dry faster. Still, I'd give it at least a whole calendar year from the time it is cut to the time it is burned, unless you live in a very-low humidity environment.
Welcome to AS, Honda04. The "search" feature will yield hours of reading, as this topic has been discussed at length in previous threads.
Here's a link to some tips:
http://www.woodheat.org/tips/biglistoftips.htm
Here's a link to some tips:
http://www.woodheat.org/tips/biglistoftips.htm
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I have found that wood that gets rained on is drying better than wood that has been covered up? Could the minerals etc. in the rain help to season the wood better?
Has anyone found this statement to be true?
Has anyone found this statement to be true?
Huh? Uhhh, no.
Split, stacked, off the ground, optional top covered, 9-12 months = seasoned firewood.
I have a full cord of wood stacked in the same spot, off the ground. This wood is all from one tree. I covered the top of this wood with a narrow tarp. One side of the stack gets more rain water on it because of the we the tarp is laying. The side of the stack that gets more rain water is greyer and is dryer than the other part of the pile.
Sodboa
ArboristSite Lurker
Greyer means dryer? I think that is when you get into the seasoned vs dry debate.:deadhorse:
Well, greyer in this case also means a LOWER moisture content so could the jury still be out?
This seems to work for me. Where I live I don't experience lots of rain/snow like perhaps the Seattle folks or some others get. I stack the freshly split wood at one end of the wood pile and I burn from the oldest end to the the freshest. The pile is about 5' high, 6' deep, and 25' long. The wood ages at least a year before I use it. It is a combination of maple, dogwood, poplar, and black cherry. I found that when I covered the top I had more bugs, mildew, and hassles trying to keep the dumb tarp in place than I did just leaving it open to Mother Nature.
yes this theory holds some water. pardon the pun, Assuming the water is allowed to EVAPORATE and not rot, it will help the drying process. It is the same principal as licking your lips, if you do it enough it causes chapped and sore lips. It is caused by the water evaporating off your lips or in this case, the wood. As iit evaporates it takes more water from the wood with it.
btlook1
ArboristSite Lurker
I think the same thing. I never cover my firewood until winter get's here. Usually try to cut enough in the spring to heat all next winter. I always stack it so it doesn't rot off the ground and always in the sunlight. Seems to me the sun is what dries it out for you. Good luck!
John Paul Sanborn
Above average climber
In the short term surface water helps the drying process by wicking water out of the wood.
Grey wood is just oxidization of the surface, just like decks and shingles will grey out with time and people bleach them to restore color.
As stated above, air circulation is key to drying. Loose stack on plallets is better then a tight stack used for cord measure. Studies in Germany show that pileing wood will work even better if the bottom is raised. In that study they placed the billets on on end to form a bed and piled the rest on top. This allowed covection in the pile. Wind is another factor that will quicken drying. I've talked to my contrac clients who sell wood,and they find that the wood piles in the winter wind dry the fastest.
A number of these people also use old palletts to pile their wood on to fascilitate convection.
So if you have the room and your municipality will allow it, pile the wood randomly on the windy side of the property on a bunch of old pallets without a tarp. Since you want to burn this coming fall, take the time to split thinner sticks.
Grey wood is just oxidization of the surface, just like decks and shingles will grey out with time and people bleach them to restore color.
As stated above, air circulation is key to drying. Loose stack on plallets is better then a tight stack used for cord measure. Studies in Germany show that pileing wood will work even better if the bottom is raised. In that study they placed the billets on on end to form a bed and piled the rest on top. This allowed covection in the pile. Wind is another factor that will quicken drying. I've talked to my contrac clients who sell wood,and they find that the wood piles in the winter wind dry the fastest.
A number of these people also use old palletts to pile their wood on to fascilitate convection.
So if you have the room and your municipality will allow it, pile the wood randomly on the windy side of the property on a bunch of old pallets without a tarp. Since you want to burn this coming fall, take the time to split thinner sticks.
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