Seized Up 075 - Ideas?

[The Burning Rom]

I picked up an immaculate 075ave on eBay last week. Other than a mushy sprocket side handle mount, a small crack in the top handle, and some burnt paint on the muffler cover (along with the auto oiler knob I accidentally broke off :censored, the thing looks like it's hardly ever been used in it's 32 year life. The muffler even has 60% of it's original paint!!!!!

The other blemish of course is the seized piston I tore the saw all the way down to the long block. There was some surface corrosion on the piston. When I pulled the plug out, some swampy water came oozing out :censored: I can see that there is some pitting in the top of the cylinder. While it's possible the pitting will not interfere with the rings, it is probably..unfortunately...junk. Problem is, I can't get the thing off to check it out any closer. I've been spraying it down with PB blaster since the teardown. I lightly tapped on it for a while with a plastic punch and plastic mallet through the plug hole. That did nothing. I also removed the check valve from the compression tester gauge extension and hooked it up to the air compressor....ran 140psi into the cylinder for around 6 hours last night. I was in the house for some Christmas celebrations, but I kept listening for a bang in the garage. I pulled the air before heading to bed to let it soak standing up overnight. If I wasn't heading back to Milwaukee today I would let it soak more (and I may have no choice but to let it soak anyway), but I was just wondering if anyone else had any ideas. The P&C may both be junk, and I see there's an aftermarket set on eBay that may suit my needs...given I'm not going to put many hours at all on this saw. And in the end, that's probably what I'll end up putting in here, but I'd like to hold off on pulling that trigger until I know for certain that what I have is no longer usable. Any ideas are welcome! This will be a fine example of the 075/076 series once it's all back together


P.S. - I didn't take any pics of it fully assembled as I was eager to get at the piston, but I have some pics of the cleaned up block and some of the other non-cleaned up pieces that I can post if someone really NEEDS pics

 

[leeha]

If the cylinder is close to TDC and covering
the ports then i would take an old sparkplug,
brake the center out and install a grease fitting.
You might have to weld a pipe fitting onto the plug then
screw the grease fitting into that. Then pump the
cylinder full of grease and keep pumping. You will
get much more pressure than your shop air. The piston should move.


Lee

 

[leeha]

You can also take a heat gun to the outside
of the cylinder to warm it up. That helps with
the pressure of the grease gun.


Lee

 

[Saw Dr.]

You need the top end from a TS-760 cutoff saw. I may be running past the salvage yard today. They have lots of cutoff saws. Those big Stihl top ends disappear pretty fast. I'll see if I can find one on the cheap. Either way, you'll probably need a piston.

 

[Brmorgan]

If the cylinder is close to TDC and covering
the ports then i would take an old sparkplug,
brake the center out and install a grease fitting.
You might have to weld a pipe fitting onto the plug then
screw the grease fitting into that. Then pump the
cylinder full of grease and keep pumping. You will
get much more pressure than your shop air. The piston should move.


Lee

I like that idea. I'll have to keep that in mind in the future. Sounds messy, but hey, if it works...

 

[The Burning Rom]

If the cylinder is close to TDC and covering
the ports then i would take an old sparkplug,
brake the center out and install a grease fitting.
You might have to weld a pipe fitting onto the plug then
screw the grease fitting into that. Then pump the
cylinder full of grease and keep pumping. You will
get much more pressure than your shop air. The piston should move.

Lee

Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like it should work. I have to head out today, so I'll leave it to my Dad to try it...or wait until I'm back in January and try it myself. He was going to let it soak for a few days and he's off for Christmas shutdown next week, so I'm sure he'll be tinkering with it.

He also thought he'd maybe try taking it to work. He works at a company that manufactures hydraulic cylinders, and they have a test bench that they can run all the way up to 1500psi. That could be another option.

You need the top end from a TS-760 cutoff saw. I may be running past the salvage yard today. They have lots of cutoff saws. Those big Stihl top ends disappear pretty fast. I'll see if I can find one on the cheap. Either way, you'll probably need a piston.

Thanks for the offer! Definitely let me know if you find one!! Yards around here just pitch saws/small engines into the large scrap piles (unless they're functional), so there's no chance of really finding anything here.

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

I've used the greese method, It works great! until you open the transfers.
It seemed like once the cyl. was full, every pump of the gun moved the piston about 1/16".
CSW

 

[nmurph]

pb blaster and a heat gun, and a good dose of patience.

 

[blsnelling]

I suspect you'll need crank bearings as well. Perhaps even a crankshaft.

 

[sefh3]

Bearings for sure will need to be replaced.

 

[Brmorgan]

OK guys I just tried the Grease method on an old Homelite I have that's stuck... Half an hour of John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John have had no effect on the saw but have made my head want to explode! What am I doing wrong? LOL.

 

[leeha]

OK guys I just tried the Grease method on an old Homelite I have that's stuck... Half an hour of John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John have had no effect on the saw but have made my head want to explode! What am I doing wrong? LOL.

Did you try the heat gun as well as the grease.
The heat will expand the cylinder and the piston
should move unless it's really bad.


Lee

 

[KTM640]

I've heard that using Coke in a locked up motor will free things up. Never tried it but the old timers swear by it.

 

[Saw Dr.]

Sorry Burning room, honey-do got in the way of your top end. I got called in for tomorrow, so maybe Saturday. Probably better to see what is in the bottom end first anyway.

Brmorgan, if the piston is below the ports the grease will do nothing. It just oozes right past. I break 'em loose with marvel mystery oil, heat, and back and forth motion.

 

[HimWill]

OK guys I just tried the Grease method on an old Homelite I have that's stuck... Half an hour of John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John have had no effect on the saw but have made my head want to explode! What am I doing wrong? LOL.

You really need to add heat,try alternating "Saturday Night Fever" with the "Grease".

(Some are a little slow on the uptake.)

 

[Bill G]

OK guys I just tried the Grease method on an old Homelite I have that's stuck... Half an hour of John Travolta and Olivia Newton-John have had no effect on the saw but have made my head want to explode! What am I doing wrong? LOL.

Simply put it is leaking out somewhere.

I suspect your piston is far enough down the grease is going through the ports. If the piston is a TDC grease is will move it until the grease finds an escape route.

Bill

 

[chainsawwhisperer]

Or there is a hole in the piston.

 

[nanuk]

too funny!

You really need to add heat,try alternating "Saturday Night Fever" with the "Grease".

(Some are a little slow on the uptake.)

yup...

perhaps the Hommie would prefer a GANGSTA movie?

Otherwise, pull out Pacino... and "His Liddle Fren!"

that'll scare it into moving! At least outta the 'hood!

 

[The Burning Rom]

I suspect you'll need crank bearings as well. Perhaps even a crankshaft.

Very possible.

Bearings for sure will need to be replaced.

Again, very possible. Won't know for sure until the bottom end is apart. It would be already of the 075 didn't use cylinder studs.

Sorry Burning room, honey-do got in the way of your top end. I got called in for tomorrow, so maybe Saturday. Probably better to see what is in the bottom end first anyway.

Brmorgan, if the piston is below the ports the grease will do nothing. It just oozes right past. I break 'em loose with marvel mystery oil, heat, and back and forth motion.

No problem. I'm in no rush And the piston is above the ports/transfers, so the grease method just may work. I was traveling yesterday and am now out of the state/midwest, but I spoke with my dad last night and he said he was going to try the grease method sometime this week if he has the time. He's never really been into big saws...preferring the small/light saws, but he seems to want to get this old monster fixed as much as I do.

On a side-note, I also found out from the seller why the saw is in such good shape. He said it belonged to his grandfather and was used exclusively for milling on an Alaskan mill. That definitely explains the lack of wear on the paint.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

opcorn::computer::camera::biggrinbounce2:

Strange that no one has asked for the pics!:jawdrop:

Where are the pics?

:spam: