Semi-Chisel or Full Chisel Chain

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This dude makes about as much sense as Globotree, but there's too much punctuation happening.

Y'all got a winner on your hands for sure.:msp_biggrin:
 
Thanks for the posts, guys. This was aimed at someone who hasn't learned about chain. All that time spent criticizing combined, I could have run two miles. I think I will now. At least you dudes haven't cracked down on my grammar the way you attempt to do on my self-esteem. What makes someone think I don't understand why people would look up from 7/12 of a warm 12 pack to oppose me moving my own firewood? I fully understand the non productive sector. I call it let's rock and roll.
Go start your own threads.

"I sentence you to be hanged by the neck....until you cheer up."
 
Well, I must be one of the uneducated knuckle draggers. I mainly use RSC chain. I cut my firewood right where it's laying, and throw it into the truck. Sometimes, I do have to drag it up out of a ravine or creek bottom, all the while packing plenty of dirt into the bark. I'd like to avoid that, but its easier and safer than cutting on the steep incline, or having to carry the rounds up that incline by hand. I try to make sure that when cutting through dirt packed bark, the dirt is on my side so that the chain is less likely to drag it back through the wood. If I'm cutting in the snow, I do tend to brush a lot of the snow off the tree, and I knock a lot of it back away from my side of the tree so that I can see what's under the snow (limbs and stuff that I could trip on). Still, there's a fair amount of snow left in the bark. I don't cut in the ice. It's just firewood, and not worth the danger of slipping on the ice. Unseen limbs, sticks, and vines are dangerous enough on their own.

In every condition that I've cut in, my chain stays sharp and throws large chips until I run out of fuel (somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 cord), at which point the chain gets one or two strokes on each tooth before going back to work. Normally, I could run two tanks of fuel through it before the chain NEEDS to be sharpened, but to me it makes more sense to keep the chain sharp than it does to let it get dull, then sharpen it. I mainly use an 036 with an 18" bar, a .325 x .063 chain and a 9 pin rim. On a brand new RSC chain, I take the rakers down one file stroke and round the leading edge off. This takes them down to somewhere between .035" and .040", at which point that chain will no longer cut small stuff, and yes it is about as pro-kickback/anti-safety chain as you can get. While I gladly admit there's nothing "magical" about the 036, I'm always amazed at how fast it cuts with this set up. I've used Oregon chain before, but I've noticed that it doesn't stay sharp as long. It will generally last through one tank of fuel with no problems, but I actually wear the chain out faster. For me, one Stihl RSC chain will cut at least 2 seasons worth of firewood (about 8~10 cord). The two Oregon chains that I tried only seemed to last through about one seasons worth. That was probably my fault, but it was enough for me to justify spending an extra $5 for the RSC chain.

Long story short, you can keep your semi-chisel chain. I don't have any use for it.

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 
I wouldn't call any Indiana Hardwood a knuckle dragger including you, Mark. I use plenty of Rapid Super also. I did keep the Micro, but this thread went over so well, I was able to unload a couple hundred feet of it for more than I paid. Back to 36RSC in .063". Stihl chains made in Switzerland--Famous machinists and top grade steel. Best in the World. Thanks for the input. This is the kind of information people want.
 
I do the rakers on 1/4 " wheel on Foley-Belsaw Sharpall 1055. I keep it shaped and do several chains' depth gauges the same. Mike them about every three chains. + or - .002 closest I can get that way. Cut at least a cord per chain. And never file. Never go much past .025" but I have experimented or went lower by accident. Never had a major kickback or ran mild chain. Still running .325" Rapid Micro on 026 Pro and MS261 in .063".
 
I wouldn't call any Indiana Hardwood a knuckle dragger including you, Mark. I use plenty of Rapid Super also. I did keep the Micro, but this thread went over so well, I was able to unload a couple hundred feet of it for more than I paid. Back to 36RSC in .063". Stihl chains made in Switzerland--Famous machinists and top grade steel. Best in the World. Thanks for the input. This is the kind of information people want.

Stihl chains are made in Switzerland? Any particular ones or all of them?
 
Stihl chains are made in Switzerland? Any particular ones or all of them?

All of it that I get. Comes from distributor in Missouri in the Midwest. I've never seen a roll that wasn't marked that way. Tie straps come with and I think it even says Switzerland on the little bags.
 
CoveredinSap?

A man who can't look another man in the hairy eyeball and tell him he's heavy on the sap ain't much of a man - Albert Soady

No clue how that fits in in, but a great quote from one of my favorite movies "Escanaba in Da Moonlight"

I don't even own an electric saw, just sayin.

I've been using a lot of the Carlton full chisel lately, I've always been a fan of semi, Stihl RMC, old stuff, but found a source that gets the Carlton at prices I can't refuse. It's held up a lot better than I thought it would. Granted when you hit something, like the half dozen nails in the 38" Maple stump I took out a couple weeks ago, it's a bear to get it filed back into shape!
I mainly cut in sandy loam, so even standing, the tree's are full of minerals. Pretty hard on chains, I've noticed less cutting time with the chains, BUT, if you pay attention when cutting and watch your chips, you notice it's time to touch up or change chains, and filing time has been greatly reduced!

I also liked the layout on the 192t better, but the one I owned was a total POS! Turned me off completely, I'll never own another one!
Loved the 200t, other than the fill layout and constant carb problems, I didn't run it regularly. Wishing I'd have kept it, but after breaking my back I figure my climbing days are done!

How is your Carlton full chisel? I currently have some that was made up by my dealer and to me, she's a quasi hybrid. Square in the back and quasi round in the front. Not full and not semi...

Actually cuts really decent and lasts a while tho.....
 
A man who can't look another man in the hairy eyeball and tell him he's heavy on the sap ain't much of a man - Albert Soady

No clue how that fits in in, but a great quote from one of my favorite movies "Escanaba in Da Moonlight"



How is your Carlton full chisel? I currently have some that was made up by my dealer and to me, she's a quasi hybrid. Square in the back and quasi round in the front. Not full and not semi...

Actually cuts really decent and lasts a while tho.....

I've had some wild looking chain cut really well. Sometimes the ones almost down to the wear lines. Why is that?
 
How is your Carlton full chisel? I currently have some that was made up by my dealer and to me, she's a quasi hybrid. Square in the back and quasi round in the front. Not full and not semi...

Actually cuts really decent and lasts a while tho.....
The carlton is durable but the chisel cutter doesn't have the defined point where the side and top plate come together compared to stihl and oregon. Good quality chain maybe not quiet as fast but good stuff. For the money I ani't complaning with baileys woodland pro rebranded carlton.
 
The carlton is durable but the chisel cutter doesn't have the defined point where the side and top plate come together compared to stihl and oregon. Good quality chain maybe not quiet as fast but good stuff. For the money I ani't complaning with baileys woodland pro rebranded carlton.

I run a lot of it too. Seems to be a happy medium between stihl and oregon. It ain't as much cheaper as it used to be though.
 
I run a lot of it too. Seems to be a happy medium between stihl and oregon. It ain't as much cheaper as it used to be though.
Everything seems to be going up. Back last summer I bought 2 loops of lpx from edge and eng for like 8 bucks each. Sat I paid 24 and change for a 67 DL loop of .325 from the dealer, WTF ...
 
I've had some wild looking chain cut really well. Sometimes the ones almost down to the wear lines. Why is that?

Yup, some of them wild looking chains are actually pretty wild.
Reccon this one would cut?
Chain012cropped2.jpg


Andy
 
Stihl chains are made in Switzerland? Any particular ones or all of them?
All of them.
All Stihl saw chain is manufactured on machinery developed and built in-house at the Stihl owned factory in Wil, Switzerland using high quality Swiss steel. Stihl is the only manufacturer of chain saws that makes their own guide bars and saw chain… all other saw makers acquire bars and chains from an outside source.

Swiss built cutting tools are the finest in the world, and Stihl saw chain is not an exception. I’ve tried other brands of chain and bars over the years… I’m disappointed every time. When it comes to holding an edge, Stihl branded saw chain wins hands-down every time. It is a bit harder to sharpen, requires an extra stroke or two, and a good quality sharp file. Stihl guide bars are near indestructible and I’ve never “worn one out” (although my 16” is getting close)… If you bend a Stihl bar, you really screwed-up.
 
If we cut wood for our comfort during the winter cold and let it sit to cure during the summer and winter for out comfort during the cold winter snows, what in the world would you be cutting the wood in the winter after a snow? Seems to my like you are doing double duty in the winter. You've supposed to be holed up in the "warm" house. :heart:
 
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