Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
Sandblaster?
Severe, severe rust.
- Thread starter Haywire Haywood
- Start date
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Pain Cow
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is this piece of equipment an older toyota pickup? I say that with love, I own an 04 tacoma.
mga
wandering
Electrolytic rust removal?
I used it on an Estwing hammer that somebody left in a tub of water for a year. The steel cleaned up OK, but the leather handle was not restorable, despite many applications of Leatherique.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
I used it on an Estwing hammer that somebody left in a tub of water for a year. The steel cleaned up OK, but the leather handle was not restorable, despite many applications of Leatherique.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
wigglesworth
Booned
One word...well a couple of letters and a word....PB Blaster!!! Stuff rocks. And if that wont cut it, one word....Kroil. That is some really bad stuff, but pricey.
:agree2:
wigglesworth
Booned
Also, although I have never used it, the old timers swear by a 50/50 mix of kero/transmission fluid. Supposed to be very good stuff.
treemandan
Tree Freak
Put everything else down and grab the smoke wrench. The more you spray the more smoke so don't even bother spraying. Just get the nuts red and hit them with an air gun.
To get the cotter pins out cut off what you can with a set of cutters then see if you can drive them out with a punch. If that don't work, as long as you can get a wrench or socket on the nut, make it glow and hit it. Or just cut the entire fastener off with the torch. Anything less IS whistling Dixie and as far as I know that never really got anyone anywhere.
To get the cotter pins out cut off what you can with a set of cutters then see if you can drive them out with a punch. If that don't work, as long as you can get a wrench or socket on the nut, make it glow and hit it. Or just cut the entire fastener off with the torch. Anything less IS whistling Dixie and as far as I know that never really got anyone anywhere.
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vincem77
ArboristSite Operative
I got hooked on Howes Multi-Purpse Lubricant a while back http://www.howeslube.com/multipurpose.php Like wd-40 but better. I buy it by the gallon and use my own spray bottle.
For the real tough bolts i use a heat inductor kit. Like the one at http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41 Where I live they salt the roads to the point where I need howes or the inductor kit to remove most bolts from my vehicles.
For the real tough bolts i use a heat inductor kit. Like the one at http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41 Where I live they salt the roads to the point where I need howes or the inductor kit to remove most bolts from my vehicles.
probably hot wrench. What we have to use for grinding slag encrusted heavy equipment on big railroad grinders.
Kroil is great, Kano Labs. Pricey but worth it.
A machinist magazine did a test of various brews, I'll edit post later and add the link when home.
Their best penetrant was 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF auto trans fluid.
Test nuts were somewhere in the 450 (in-lbs?) to remove. rough order by memory: WD40 250-300, PBblaster in the 250 range, Liquid wrench 125 or so, Kroil 100-125, the 50-50 mix was 60.
Kroil is great, Kano Labs. Pricey but worth it.
A machinist magazine did a test of various brews, I'll edit post later and add the link when home.
Their best penetrant was 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF auto trans fluid.
Test nuts were somewhere in the 450 (in-lbs?) to remove. rough order by memory: WD40 250-300, PBblaster in the 250 range, Liquid wrench 125 or so, Kroil 100-125, the 50-50 mix was 60.
x's 2 on kroil---bout the only thing better--is a mix of used atf and acetone--please no open flame or sparks!!!!!!!!!!!
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
WD-40 isn't a very good penetrator. It's great stuff in its place, but it's not designed to be a penetrant.
Every time I see this come up on a forum, there are tons of thumbs up on Kroil. Must be something to it.
Every time I see this come up on a forum, there are tons of thumbs up on Kroil. Must be something to it.
svon89
ArboristSite Operative
The 50/50 mix in the test Kevin J referred to was actually atf and acetone. I have used it, and it does work. I believe it was the home shop machinist or maybe practical machinist.
Here is the info. I had to look it up.
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
Here is the info. I had to look it up.
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!
Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10
The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."
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NorthernOntario
ArboristSite Member
Might just try the ATF+acetone on a project of mine. My rototiller has removable tine sections; pull a cotter pin, slide section out... changes the width of 'cut'. But, when I got it, the sections were rusted together.
I popped one pin out last night, and no amount of smacking would allow one of the sections to come apart. Heck, the rust bond was so good that I was able to till part of the garden last night with no pin in the section (shear pin!).
Needs a good soaking to penetrate in there.
And... just remember, WD40 isn't a very good penetrating oil. As shown in the above post, there are much better solutions out there.
I popped one pin out last night, and no amount of smacking would allow one of the sections to come apart. Heck, the rust bond was so good that I was able to till part of the garden last night with no pin in the section (shear pin!).
Needs a good soaking to penetrate in there.
And... just remember, WD40 isn't a very good penetrating oil. As shown in the above post, there are much better solutions out there.
that is the chart. tks for the posting.
although I like Kroil, I want to try or hear about the other mix also.
k
although I like Kroil, I want to try or hear about the other mix also.
k
howellhandmade
Addicted to ArboristSite
svon89
ArboristSite Operative
I mixed up some of the atf and acetone. Don't mix a lot, just as much as you are going to use. There was something about it not having too long a shelf life. I have used it with success. I have also used Kroil, and that works well, just hard to find in my area.
NeoTree
ArboristSite Guru
Is the machine brand Joy ??
Blowncrewcab
ArboristSite Guru
Anybody remember "Naval Jelly"? For removing rust? it's not a penatrant but removes rust right down to the fresh metal. I haven't seen it in years (also haven't been looking) used to come in a pink plastic bottle, it's a thick brush on solution. it won't get it apart, but will clean the heck out of it once it is apart.
