Sharpen chain - reverse bar?

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I don't file in the field,,, I take extra chains with me and switch the chain instead,, I can change a chain a lot faster then sitting there working a file,, I know its over kill but I flip the bar every time I change the chain
 
What is important to remember is that the bar should be run on both sides. How one plans to ensure this happens is probably not all that important. I just don't pay attention to how the bar goes back on when I have it off and the random installation ensures it runs on both sides. I certainly don't turn it over on every sharpening because I usually sharpen the chain on the bar. Rotate the bar from time to time and keep your chain sharp. Your saw will be happy!

When I sell a saw and am posting pictures, I always put the bar on with the writing up because some will think it is installed incorrectly otherwise.

Do pay attention to a previous post to not rotate banana bars. They're only designed to run one way. (and thus wear out more quickly)
I agree with putting them on writing up when selling, but when i buy its kinda nice to see them upside down, then you know they did something right.
 
I flip it when I need to back-bar. Now that I'm using full wraps, I almost never flip the bar
 
As others have indicated, the important thing is that that you have a system that ensures that you flip the bar now and then, not exactly how often you do it!
Remember to scrape the bar clean between the rails, and check for developing "wire edges", when you are at it! Clean oil holes.
Just as important as flipping it, clean out the rails with a nail and your oil holes. Those "wire edges" could make a sharp chain seem dull, clean them up with a flat file.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
The amount and attention each of my bars get is directly proportional to the cost. The 36" Sugi light receives daily carnauba waxing, the 16" rebranded power match......not so much
 
Yeah, I flip my bar and clean the grooves each time I remove it. This way it is automatic - I don't have to think about it.

Like Scott, I usually swap out extra chains in the field, so the bars gets flipped regularly. I guess if you rarely remove your chain for sharpening you need a more intentional schedule for flipping the bar.

If the bar needs to be filed I prefer to do that in the shop with a workbench and vise, but I try to inspect it each time I handle it

Philbert
 
I have one of those bars... What was the purpose of making it like that?

As Niko indicated it was a safety feature. If you read any of the old Poulan literature they discount the effectiveness of chain brakes, thus very few of the older saws have them (though I think Canada mandated them before the U.S.).
 
Sprocket replacement - I assume you are talking about the drive sprocket, correct? And how does flipping the bar maximize the service life of the nose sprocket? I always just understood it to maximize bar rail life since you typically buck cutting down for the most part.

Waylan
The nose sprocket teeth will wear on both sides evenly if you flip the bar.
 
If you file chain on the bar it's a good idea to hit it with air and get rid of the filings. I was taught to draw file away from the nose too when dressing the bar, saves too much filings going in to the nose sprocket
Your wasting your time with the air. . .metal filings wont hurt the sprocket either.
 
Ok, I'll rephrase, when cutting in the woods it is a good idea to take a broo..... Hang on.
When filing metal in your workshop, it could be considered sensible not to get hardened metal filings in the small gaps between the rotating and stationary parts
 
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