sharpening chain with file

[LHJim]

Ok...I am wondering how long a chain file lasts. I saw someone mention that they normally sharpen chains after one tankful of gas...so this is what I do. I take the file and do three swabs at the cutters. When I do this after adding gas mix and the bar oil and attempt to cut wood it seems to dull pretty fast. And the file itself seems to not be as aggressive such that when I do a swab it does not seem like a new file would.

How often do you have to use the file before its no good? I am thinking the file itself may not be like new after using it a couple times. Maybe I am swabing too much when I should only do one swab?

Also how do you know that the loop is damaged beyond being able to use again? I would have to guess this chain had prolly one or two tanks through it so its relatively new.

Yes when I first cut with it it cut with fire and brimstone but its just after running out of a tank of gas and attempting to sharpen the loop it seems not like before. The oil usage seem to be following the gas usage...that is using up a tank of gas I had about I would say 15% oil left in tank...just guessing.

So how do you tell if the file is beyond using again? How often should you clean the air filter? After a day of sawing? What about chain...how do you know its beyond useful anymore?

TIA

 

[kodiakyardboy]

Your files should last for a while. Replace them when they seem like they aren't biting into the steel anymore. It took me a long time to figure out how to properly file my chains. My advise is to have someone with a lot of experience show you how they do it. You should get a file guide set up with the proper angle and size for the chain you are using. You should also get a depth guage to measure and maintain your rakers. Learning to properly sharpen your chains is a good skill and it'll save you time and money.

 

[gandrimp]

Not all files or chains are created equally.

A file should last longer than your getting.

Unless dirty wood or rocks a chain should stay sharp longer than a tank of fuel.

YMMV

 

[PARTSWOODCHUCK]

PROPER SHARPENING IS DEFINATELY #1, IT JUST TAKES TIME TO LEARN. A STUMP VISE CAN BE A VERY USEFULL TOOL.
AS TO THE FREQUENCY OF SHARPENING, I ONLY SHARPEN IT WHEN IT GETS SO IT WON'T CUT WITHOUT BEING PUSHED.
THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I'VE HAD WITH A HAND FILED CHAIN IS IF YOU MAKE THE GULLET TOO DEEP IT DOESN'T LIKE TO CUT AS WELL.
I USE FROSTBITE FILES ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY THEY DON'T STAY SHARP AS LONG BUT THEY ARE MORE AGGRESSIVE WHEN FILING A CHAIN THAT JUST GOT ROCKED, OR USED AS A MOTORIZED SHOVEL. THE LONGER YOU RUN IT DULL THE HOTTER THE CHAIN GETS AND IT'S A :censored: TO SHARPEN.

FIND A COMFORTABLE POSITION TO SHARPEN THE SAW AND JUST TRY TO DO IT THE SAME EVERY TIME AND IT WILL GET EASIER.

 

[CentaurG2]

A file should last you about one chain. Chains cost money. I sharpen and run them till they are no longer efficient at cutting (way below the witness marks usually missing a few cutters). If you rock out a chain, use an old file to remove the damage or better yet use a dremel tool or hand held grinder to remove the damage. It will help keep your files sharp. You can tell when a file is dull by how it fails to cut the tooth or by its appearance. I lube my files with Kroil. It is slightly acidic and helps keep them sharp and cutting efficiently. Air filters depend on the saw. On the ms200T I tap them out every time I gas and oil. Husky 372xp filters seem to stay clean forever. Clean your filter with solvent (simple green) and water every time you switch out a chain or every time you flip the bar. I also check the max RPM whenever I put a clean filter on a saw. Hope this helps.

 

[CGC4200]

handheld Oregon file guide

I use these for touching up a chain, helps me keep hook & angle consistent.

 

[Mastermind]

Filing a chain so it self feeds as it did when new is an art...one that I have yet to master. Sometimes I get good at it...other times...so so. Using a depth gauge to get the rakers right is what it's all about. As for files I find that keeping them clean helps them to last longer. I have been hand filing for well over twenty years and I'm still learning. So patience is a must.

 

[mikefunaro]

you need to learn how to judge whether a cutter is sharp or not by appearance or by feel on the saw. Just creating arbitrary numbers of swipes that you're going to do is not going to be effective--sometimes it will be too much and sometimes it will be too little. You want to look when you see a clean, nice edge on the top plate that is free from any sort of chipping/irregularity. If you're working with a chisel chain you should have a perfect chisel point. It's possible to rock a chain, and then give it a few swipes, and have it cut halfway decent, but its not "sharp". 3 strokes are generally good for a quick touch up, but if you've cut anything dirty or hit ground you're going to need a lot more than that. Also, if you want your files to last longer, make sure you're not pressing really really hard. I find this has potential to screw up files and make them dull fast. It also sometimes helps to try to clean material out of them, if it looks like they're clogging and getting plugged up.

 

[thomas72]

Unless you are cutting the ground or dirt impregnated bark a sharp chain will last a lot longer than a tank of fuel. I can cut oak all day long without sharpening if I do not get into dirt. I am also running .404 semi chisel. In the past some threads were made that had pictures of properly sharpened chains.

 

[Log Hogger]

Quick, light strokes

I started off filing chains like I was layin' pipe: big, long, deep strokes that reverberated through the saw's very soul. Files lacked staying power and the chain could barely get up and cut afterwards.

Quick, light strokes, just enough to touch the cutter. It's hard to explain but you'll know it when you get it.

 

[nmurph]

i agree with Thomas. i can usually go 3-4 tanks bf i feel like i am losing an appreciable amount of speed. that is cutting all oak. you may need to take some of the raker off. no matter how sharp a cutter is, if it can't get down to the wood it can't cut. a carlton file-o-plate is a nice tool to set rakers.
some files are better than others. i like stihls and seem to get many sharpening bf i toss it.
i think you might need to take the chains to a good shop and have them set the angles. from there i would be some type of filing guide and use it until you get the hang of it.

 

[jtc16]

Quick, light strokes

I started off filing chains like I was layin' pipe: big, long, deep strokes that reverberated through the saw's very soul. Files lacked staying power and the chain could barely get up and cut afterwards.

Quick, light strokes, just enough to touch the cutter. It's hard to explain but you'll know it when you get it.

I guess I've been doing it wrong.. Makes a lot of sense

 

[treesmith]

Each file stroke should be one continuous smooth movement in one direction only - dragging the file backwards blunts them real quick, the file should have 20% diameter above the top plate to attain a sharp durable hook and depth gauges are best set with a proper depth gauge tool

 

[jtc16]

Right on thanks, I think I'm doing everything right except for how hard I'm pressing. If I've "sharpened" a chain a lot by pressing too hard is it possible to bring it back with enough light strokes or am I sol?

 

[treesmith]

If its bad from dirt or rocks then I'll press hard but lighten up on the last few to get a better edge

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

 

[jtc16]

The makes sense. I sharpened a chain today with small light strokes and probably got it sharper than I've ever got another chain. Thanks.

 

[shwinecat]

What are you guys using for depth gauges? The Oregon depth gauge is not a progressive style and results seem to be poor. Wonder who has the best method. I think this either makes or breaks the saws ability to cut if the cutters are sharp.

 

[asauer]

I like the husqvarna roller file guide and use the attached depth gauge. It is referenced off each cutter tooth instead of the average of two. Seems to work well for me.

 

[7sleeper]

I like the husqvarna roller file guide and use the attached depth gauge. It is referenced off each cutter tooth instead of the average of two. Seems to work well for me.

+1

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