sharpening guide advice

[bierandbikes]

I have been "freehand" sharpening chains but after a several times, they start to get a little uneven. I am looking for a guide that will allow me to precisely sharpen different types of chains accurately. I think something that mounts to the bar would be useful. I have also seen some very small guides from Stihl and others but not sure how they work. There are many choices so I am looking for advice on the best one for shop and field.

First time post but I have been pulling lots of great info from here for a while. Thank you.

 

[moody]

I have been "freehand" sharpening chains but after a several times, they start to get a little uneven. I am looking for a guide that will allow me to precisely sharpen different types of chains accurately. I think something that mounts to the bar would be useful. I have also seen some very small guides from Stihl and others but not sure how they work. There are many choices so I am looking for advice on the best one for shop and field.

First time post but I have been pulling lots of great info from here for a while. Thank you.

You can pick up a Husqvarna file guide depth gauge pack for $15 at Home depot or you local dealer this should help you. I free hand but use the depth gauge for my drag teeth(rakers)

 

[apn73]

File-N-Joint | Granberg International I use this one and it works really well, several others here use them and may chime in. There are some cheap (but not the purchase price!) plastic immitations, don't be tempted. Stihl makes a really good bench mount version of this, but they're $160:msp_scared:

 

[ohio andy]

File-N-Joint | Granberg International I use this one and it works really well, several others here use them and may chime in. There are some cheap (but not the purchase price!) plastic immitations, don't be tempted. Stihl makes a really good bench mount version of this, but they're $160:msp_scared:

I thought the Stihl vench mount version was NLA. Am incorrect?

 

[KenJax Tree]

I thought the Stihl vench mount version was NLA. Am incorrect?

Indeed you are

 

[gunnusmc03]

Indeed you are

Not quite, you can find a ton of them if you go to fleabay Germany. The price is STEAP but they're still there. I've had really good luck with the Granberg File-N-joint and the Husqvarna roller guides. Both work pretty well.

 

[KenJax Tree]

You know what I meant. Guides are too Slow I've been Free handing for 16 years now without a problem.

 

[harrygrey382]

Not trying to be confrontational, but why does everyone not use one of these? -

Quicker than just a file, very almost as easy to carry. Way cheaper than anything else. Easier on your body as you're not trying to stop the file diving, keeps the correct depth. I know it's not exactly what the OP was asking but I've always wondered why people use just a file when you can have one of these guides.

Having said that I just got some of the new Stihl guides for the blokes at work. Works basically the same for the round file but does the rakers at the same time. Works very well for people that aren't confident (or don't even how to) setting rakers. Also I only check them every few sharpens where as this takes them down as you go so they are always bang on. Obviously you have to accept their height. I still use the old seperate files for my personal saws but

 

[CTYank]

Not trying to be confrontational, but why does everyone not use one of these? -

Quicker than just a file, very almost as easy to carry. Way cheaper than anything else. Easier on your body as you're not trying to stop the file diving, keeps the correct depth. I know it's not exactly what the OP was asking but I've always wondered why people use just a file when you can have one of these guides.

Having said that I just got some of the new Stihl guides for the blokes at work. Works basically the same for the round file but does the rakers at the same time. Works very well for people that aren't confident (or don't even how to) setting rakers. Also I only check them every few sharpens where as this takes them down as you go so they are always bang on. Obviously you have to accept their height. I still use the old seperate files for my personal saws but

I did, used various such, labeled for Homelite, Oregon, Stihl even. Then I tried Granberg's, and it was all over for me. All the previous went into storage. They are so far inferior to Granberg's- nowhere near the accuracy & consistency. I keep a few around to remind me how sub-optimum they were/are. Better than nothing, but ...

For ~$20 for the "File-N-Joint" I'd hardly call the others "way cheaper". That's one answer why not everyone uses these guides. (And I accept only depth gauge height that I explicitly set, and don't have to do that often.)

 

[machinisttx]

I use a granberg. I did have an oregon, but it wouldn't stay put on the bar and ended up having a date with a hammer. The only problem I've had with the granberg has been unrelated to the guide itself...bent files make it hard to set correctly.

 

[Philbert]

Not trying to be confrontational, but why does everyone not use one of these?

Lots of file guides out there. Lots of preferences. Some do different things.

The top guide shown only controls the height of the file on the cutter. It can help to stabilize the file and help you eyeball the angle.

The Granberg style guide controls file height, horizontal angle, and vertical angle. Not the fastest, but very consistent, accurate filing.

The lower guide is a re- packaged Pferd guide.

Choose something that works for you.

Philbert

 

[Moparmyway]

Not trying to be confrontational, but why does everyone not use one of these? -

Quicker than just a file, very almost as easy to carry. Way cheaper than anything else. Easier on your body as you're not trying to stop the file diving, keeps the correct depth. I know it's not exactly what the OP was asking but I've always wondered why people use just a file when you can have one of these guides.

Because the file does not last as long as it tends to not be rotated, and sooner rather than later you see that the file is taking too many strokes to give an edge, the teeth are eithor clogged or dulled. I had a few of those style guides, I liked Stihls guide the best. Nothing beats the quickness and effectiveness of just a file. You can rotate, angle, lift slightly, and see everything ...... all with just a little practice. Everyone is different, so what works for me might be bad for you. Bottom line is to find what works, and stay with it. Experiment on the fire wood pile, but keep the "go to" for the "field work" !!

PS ...... I hand file as much as I can, then the 511A comes into play for those rocked or nailed chains !
PSS - I ordered some Save Edge files a little while back, and I MUST admit, they are the very best so far. Very sharp, good material removal, and have lasted longer than any Stihl or Preferred files I have tried !!

 

[bower4311]

Because the file does not last as long as it tends to not be rotated, and sooner rather than later you see that the file is taking too many strokes to give an edge, the teeth are eithor clogged or dulled. I had a few of those style guides, I liked Stihls guide the best. Nothing beats the quickness and effectiveness of just a file. You can rotate, angle, lift slightly, and see everything ...... all with just a little practice. Everyone is different, so what works for me might be bad for you. Bottom line is to find what works, and stay with it. Experiment on the fire wood pile, but keep the "go to" for the "field work" !!

I have the Vallorbe file guide, and I have a Stihl for 3/8LP, it only takes five seconds to loosen the holder and rotate the file. Not sure how that can really be a big problem.

 

[bower4311]

Also, I have a Granberg and I don't think it was holding angles accurately. Brand new chains, at the correct angle, weren't coming out right. I was able to hold a better angle with a regular file guide.

 

[SawTroll]

I have the Vallorbe file guide, and I have a Stihl for 3/8LP, it only takes five seconds to loosen the holder and rotate the file. Not sure how that can really be a big problem.

People forget to do it - but my main objection to those guides is thay you don't see what you are doing.

 

[bower4311]

People forget to do it - but my main objection to those guides is thay you don't see what you are doing.

Unfortunately you don't. But I've learned to get a good feel with them. I'm very inexperienced but have taken up hand sharpening pretty well. While it's harder to see what's going on with the guide on, I think after doing a few chains with the guide, you could take it off and REALLY know what's going on, see what you're doing and be able to hold the right height based on muscle memory. Personally I haven't made it that far. I prefer the guide.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[bierandbikes]

Thanks for all the replies. I currently use the Stihl guide, and I do rotate the file and use a file card on it (although not enough out in the field). While I feel that my accuracy and technique are pretty good, after several field sharpening sessions, I would like to take the time to make each tooth accurate and factory (I know somebody is going to have a comment here) sharp. I also find that as I get tired, my file tends to float a bit. I think the Granberg File-n-Joint is the way to go, along with the Save-Edge files. I have only heard one person complain about angle accuracy of the Granberg, and that can likely be fixed by taking the time to set it up properly and make sure your files are in good working order.

Next up, muffler mod and retune for the MS290 so I can leave the 041AV in the truck on occasion.

 

[Moparmyway]

I have the Vallorbe file guide, and I have a Stihl for 3/8LP, it only takes five seconds to loosen the holder and rotate the file. Not sure how that can really be a big problem.

Thats 5 seconds every 3rd or 4th tooth, if youre only giving an edge to a decent tooth.
Need to give a tooth 8-10 strokes, and every tooth you will need those additional 5 seconds
Do the math on a 32" B&C with RS or RM.

Again, I have used the guides, but I preferr now to just use the file by itself, for more than just this one reason you chose to single out.

 

[Woodsman1]

I learned about the Pferd here and I got one and it works well. I got a used Echo CS400 from home depot rental with a beat up chain and the Pferd brought it right back. I like the way it sets the depth gauges at the same time to 0.050 since I get lazy on that. The one shown above seems to be an improvement on the design since I have a hard time switching the Pferd over from side to side. Guess I am getting dummer with age.

 

[galde]

A depth gauge cut down to 0.050 would stop the saw in its tracks. Surely you mean more like half that.