sharping help !

[demc570]

I Marked to oiler port on the saw, then lined up the bar oil hole at the bottom, and marked the bar. Then I pushed the bar forward to its operating position with a tight chain, and marked the starting point to begin the tapered mill towards the bar oil hole.

thanks for the info and pictures.....also did it make big differance doing that? did you notice having to turn down your oiler,or use more oil?THANKS AGAIN---GREAT STUFF!

 

[Sagetown]

thanks for the info and pictures.....also did it make big difference doing that? did you notice having to turn down your oiler,or use more oil?THANKS AGAIN---GREAT STUFF!

Yes it made a tremendous difference. No adjustable oiler on the MS270. It does not use more oil, just more efficient use of the oil already being pumped out.

Before I milled the port, the oil coming out of the saw oiler had such a hard time finding a place to escape to. Namely the bar oil hole.

From looking at the saw design, the elongated channel on the saw where the oil port is located should carry the oil along the bar to the designated bar oil hole. But, if there is the slightest space between the bar and this channel, most of the oil just leaks through this space onto the bar, never finding its way to the bar oil hole.

Now, the bar oil reservoir get all the oil it needs to lubricate and cool the passing chain.

 

[diggers_dad]

There are some threads out there that will help you. I use grinders a lot because I sometimes do a half dozen chains at a time (not all mine). I do not consider myself a very good hand filer either.

I recommend you sharpen the cutters first to get them uniformly sharpened and to the same length on both sides, whether you are filing or grinding. There are several excellent tools (jigs) out there to help you with this if you are filing. Grinding, do some searches on that and you'll find comments and pictures too.

After sharpening the cutters, you need to check depth guage height and file or grind down if needed to lower them. The reason you do this after the cutters is that cutters have a little upward slope to them, so when you grind them you are also lowering them. So you'll need to file or grind down the depth guages to lower them as well in relation to the cutter behind each one.

I use the grinder to lower depth gauges when I need to remove a lot of material. This is usually because the cutters were dinged and needed a lot of grinding to properly sharpen them. I do not always use the grinder though, because it is not very accurate, and if I only need a file stroke or two on the depth gauges, I just do them by hand file. Get a flat file from Bailey's on line (they are an AS sponsor) or from your local saw dealer, not from your local builder supply store. The proper flat files for depth gauges will have smooth sides. This prevents the user from accidentally hitting and dulling a cutter with the edge of the file.

Your dealer should also have depth gauge tools that you place aross the top of the cutter and allow the depth gauge to stick up through a slot on the tool. Then you file the depth gauge off level with the tool. This will work for a sharpening or two, then you'll find that it does not lower the depth gauge enough for your liking. This is because although the tool gives you the same amount of drop from cutter to depth gauge in vertical distance, over time the amount of drop measured in degrees from horizontal (cutter to depth gauge) gradually decreases. When you adjust for this by filing each depth gauge with a couple more strokes to get the saw cutting well again, you are effectively doing what we call "progressive filing" of the depth gauges. In other words, as you take the cutters back more and more, you are progressively filing the depth gauge down by more vertical distance to compensate.

The File O Plate tool (again, Bailey's) approximates progressive filing, but there are others that apparently do it as well or better and may be easier to use. See the Husqvarna tool someone posted a picture of earlier in this thread. The FOP does not work with all chain, but was designed by Carlton for their chain although it seems to work pretty well on Stihl RSC chain. There are threads on these as well. The depth gauge tool Stihl sells only measures the vertical drop; I think Oregon has one like that too. But they are usually .025" drop. You can get them at .030" drop if you like a little more aggressive cut right from the start, but you might have to order it.

If you need to grind depth gauges, what I do is hand file one depth gauge on each side by hand until it's where I want it using a depth gauge tool or in my instance a digital angle finder (I'm really into this, some would say to an extreme). Then I use those depth gauges to set the grinding wheel to the proper depth to grind all cutters on that side to that depth, and then turn the grinder on and grind all of the depth gauges on that side. Then I index the grinding wheel to the other side of depth gauges and grind each of them. Finally I smooth off the front edge of each depth gauge with a hand file as needed.

Hope this helps you refine things a bit in your shop. Please let us know how it's going; we're here to help.

Great information - thanks for posting. Rep headed your way!

dd

 

[demc570]

Yes it made a tremendous difference. No adjustable oiler on the MS270. It does not use more oil, just more efficient use of the oil already being pumped out.

Before I milled the port, the oil coming out of the saw oiler had such a hard time finding a place to escape to. Namely the bar oil hole.

From looking at the saw design, the elongated channel on the saw where the oil port is located should carry the oil along the bar to the designated bar oil hole. But, if there is the slightest space between the bar and this channel, most of the oil just leaks through this space onto the bar, never finding its way to the bar oil hole.

Now, the bar oil reservoir get all the oil it needs to lubricate and cool the passing chain.

THATS AWESOME,GOING TO DO MINE------------GREAT STUFF AWESOME:biggrinbounce2::hmm3grin2orange: THANKS FOR SHARING THIS!!

 

[demc570]

There are some threads out there that will help you. I use grinders a lot because I sometimes do a half dozen chains at a time (not all mine). I do not consider myself a very good hand filer either.

I recommend you sharpen the cutters first to get them uniformly sharpened and to the same length on both sides, whether you are filing or grinding. There are several excellent tools (jigs) out there to help you with this if you are filing. Grinding, do some searches on that and you'll find comments and pictures too.

After sharpening the cutters, you need to check depth guage height and file or grind down if needed to lower them. The reason you do this after the cutters is that cutters have a little upward slope to them, so when you grind them you are also lowering them. So you'll need to file or grind down the depth guages to lower them as well in relation to the cutter behind each one.

I use the grinder to lower depth gauges when I need to remove a lot of material. This is usually because the cutters were dinged and needed a lot of grinding to properly sharpen them. I do not always use the grinder though, because it is not very accurate, and if I only need a file stroke or two on the depth gauges, I just do them by hand file. Get a flat file from Bailey's on line (they are an AS sponsor) or from your local saw dealer, not from your local builder supply store. The proper flat files for depth gauges will have smooth sides. This prevents the user from accidentally hitting and dulling a cutter with the edge of the file.

Your dealer should also have depth gauge tools that you place aross the top of the cutter and allow the depth gauge to stick up through a slot on the tool. Then you file the depth gauge off level with the tool. This will work for a sharpening or two, then you'll find that it does not lower the depth gauge enough for your liking. This is because although the tool gives you the same amount of drop from cutter to depth gauge in vertical distance, over time the amount of drop measured in degrees from horizontal (cutter to depth gauge) gradually decreases. When you adjust for this by filing each depth gauge with a couple more strokes to get the saw cutting well again, you are effectively doing what we call "progressive filing" of the depth gauges. In other words, as you take the cutters back more and more, you are progressively filing the depth gauge down by more vertical distance to compensate.

The File O Plate tool (again, Bailey's) approximates progressive filing, but there are others that apparently do it as well or better and may be easier to use. See the Husqvarna tool someone posted a picture of earlier in this thread. The FOP does not work with all chain, but was designed by Carlton for their chain although it seems to work pretty well on Stihl RSC chain. There are threads on these as well. The depth gauge tool Stihl sells only measures the vertical drop; I think Oregon has one like that too. But they are usually .025" drop. You can get them at .030" drop if you like a little more aggressive cut right from the start, but you might have to order it.

If you need to grind depth gauges, what I do is hand file one depth gauge on each side by hand until it's where I want it using a depth gauge tool or in my instance a digital angle finder (I'm really into this, some would say to an extreme). Then I use those depth gauges to set the grinding wheel to the proper depth to grind all cutters on that side to that depth, and then turn the grinder on and grind all of the depth gauges on that side. Then I index the grinding wheel to the other side of depth gauges and grind each of them. Finally I smooth off the front edge of each depth gauge with a hand file as needed.

Hope this helps you refine things a bit in your shop. Please let us know how it's going; we're here to help.

GREAT INFO THANK YOU SO MUCH!:msp_thumbsup: