ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
We charge $10 off saw $14 on. On I clean the bar and blow out the saw too. Grind the bar rails if needed ($10)
Shop Re-Sharpened Chains vs. Factory
- Thread starter John Lyngdal
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We charge $10 off saw $14 on. On I clean the bar and blow out the saw too. Grind the bar rails if needed ($10)
I'm just trying to understand the 'sharpen-vs-replace' value at your shop.
For example, my local STIHL dealer charges about $23 for a 16" STIHL chain (.325/.063/67 DL) and about $7 to sharpen it.
But a home center across the street sells some 16" Oregon chains ('S56' - 3/8 low profile/.050/56 DL) for less than $9 on sale.
For a person who does not sharpen their own chain, it makes sense to sharpen the first one, but maybe to just replace the second one.
So I was curious how much a new chain sells for if people are willing to pay $25 for sharpening.
Thanks.
Philbert
For example, my local STIHL dealer charges about $23 for a 16" STIHL chain (.325/.063/67 DL) and about $7 to sharpen it.
But a home center across the street sells some 16" Oregon chains ('S56' - 3/8 low profile/.050/56 DL) for less than $9 on sale.
For a person who does not sharpen their own chain, it makes sense to sharpen the first one, but maybe to just replace the second one.
So I was curious how much a new chain sells for if people are willing to pay $25 for sharpening.
Thanks.
Philbert
Personally, I am fussy about sharpening, and could not compete against $7 per loop, even working out of my garage. And I hear people b*tching about $7 as 'gouging'!
Or I could just 'sharpen' (and skip cleaning, inspecting, chasing gullets, adjusting depth gauges, rounding depth gauges, deburring drive links, and re-lubing).
It's something that I get satisfaction from, and do for myself, friends, and some volunteer groups I work with.
Philbert
Or I could just 'sharpen' (and skip cleaning, inspecting, chasing gullets, adjusting depth gauges, rounding depth gauges, deburring drive links, and re-lubing).
It's something that I get satisfaction from, and do for myself, friends, and some volunteer groups I work with.
Philbert
Off topic but someone here will know. I just bought a pp225 top handle saw. The chain is " small" sorry for being so technical . I thought I would run a file over it the other day. The smallest file I have is 3/16. After some passes I noticed a rolled edge forming on each tooth on the "side" of the cutter. I am guessing that is because I am using the wrong size file I wonder is this a case for a 1/8 file? I think it is a low profile chain all my saws run either 3/8 or 325 so I use 7/32nds or 13/64ths on those.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Use a 5/32 size file for the "picco/lo-pro" type chains....Oregon and Stihl both say to use these size files anyway....
These small chains don't take much pressure to file....on my personal saws with the lo-pro chain, I just about always hand file them....they are always a 16" chain or less, and they dont take anytime at all to file back into shape......
Once you get the smaller file, you will get a much better tooth profile...
I knew it! 38.3 seconds later I have an answer ha ha love this site !! thanks.
The chain is low pro Picco I remember reading it on the chain box . It came with the chain in the original chain box. ok 5/32 it will be.
The chain is low pro Picco I remember reading it on the chain box . It came with the chain in the original chain box. ok 5/32 it will be.
Oregon low profile and narrow kerf (Type 90) chain actually calls for a 4.5mm ( 11/64") file. This is counter-intuitive, since this chain appears to be slightly 'smaller' than regular 3/8 low profile chain (Type 91), which takes a 5/32" diameter file.
But I tried it, and it really worked well. Oregon says the teeth have s different profile. You might have to order these files, unless a well stocked store carries them..
Philbert
But I tried it, and it really worked well. Oregon says the teeth have s different profile. You might have to order these files, unless a well stocked store carries them..
Philbert
Philbert
You just have waaaaay to much information for a simpleton like myself. Leave it to you to stroll on over and up-set my apple cart. I was perfectly happy with the 5/32 file choice now I gotta go do some investigation . I will have to look and see if I still have the chain box to see what it says. If I cannot find the box maybe I can get you guys a photo of it. I have a awful time getting close ups of stuff I use the MARCO setting but still I shake some I guess. I don't get good pictures like the ones above.
You just have waaaaay to much information for a simpleton like myself. Leave it to you to stroll on over and up-set my apple cart. I was perfectly happy with the 5/32 file choice now I gotta go do some investigation . I will have to look and see if I still have the chain box to see what it says. If I cannot find the box maybe I can get you guys a photo of it. I have a awful time getting close ups of stuff I use the MARCO setting but still I shake some I guess. I don't get good pictures like the ones above.
If it is STIHL brand chain, it is probably their ' Picco' chain. If it is Oregon brand chain it will have a number like'9o' or '91' stamped on the drive links. If it is another brand - need to look it up!
Philbert
Philbert
ok I took a few photos all of which suck. The chain box was what the chain was in when I bought the saw from a member here. The box and the chain that was in it are most likely not the same the box has blue marker on the size as if to say " this is not the size chain in this box" sort of thing I think. Chain numbers are voodoo to me I have to ask every time I want to buy a chain other than for my partners. I have asked Chris in Pa many questions about this sort of thing ( not about this saw though). He has helped me with a PP 255 I wanted a new bar and chain for in the past so now it is you guys turn, never let it be said I play favorites ha ha. I have a red plastic chain size gauge I got from Oregon once and I don't think??? think the 1/4 size gauge size matches up with this chain but it is close. Without further adue here are my sucky pictures. jpeg 458 shows the rolled edge 459 shows the Oregon gauge 463 shows the gauge held up to a side plate 464 shows the saw itself. I did not look for a driver stamp if you don't know what it is by the photos I will go do that.
Attachments
Did not you see the picture of how to use that red plastic thing. It is in white. Chainsaw chains are rarely evenly spaced rivets so they are measured two increments then divided by two. The insignia kind of looks like a Carlton one in which case 5/32 would be correct. Is it a Carlton box?
No the box was woodland pro but like I said I don't think the box and the chain go together. The cut outs on the gauge line up with the rivets on the chain I actually works very well. You can see the cuts out do not line up with the chain rivets they are close but not spot on by any means. The pasted portion of my message you quoted should have said "the 1/4 gauge does not line up with the rivets but it is close."
The chain is Carleton also this is the box I mentioned . You can see what I mean now the chain is Carleton the box is woodland pro. So is 5/32nds the final answer?
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I tried to learn the hand filing over a 2 year period, and never achieved competence. The grinder I mastered after the 4th or 5th grinding and my chains are factory sharp. Quicker to learn, better results, less metal removed, and pays for itself in a single season.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Never used the NK chain but over here the Type 90 /91 & 1/4" pitch chain all seem to have a 4mm sharpening stick called for, but we don't rate this imperial sizing
Most Woodland Pro (but not all) chain was made by Oregon.
Here's how to use the gauge:
Philbert
Here's how to use the gauge:
Philbert
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Often we too are a little stumped but the customer is always right. A new chain for 30.00 and a second for 15 is a good deal, Stihl chains BTW. So Harry homeowner comes in and has a chain in his hand.. his bill is 15.00 plus tax OR he buys a new chain and gets a second 1/2 off and he is at 45 plus tax.. they often look at the price, and just get the sharpen. When it comes to chains for stihl we are about it. I think most of the homeowners when they come in have no idea that the chain can be sharpened so we educate them and once they understand they can get that chain sharpened quite a few times they are sold. While they are in they pick up bar and chain oil, motomix, look at lawnmowers, get a quote on a zero turn... The bigger outfits drop off a dozen or so chains at a time for sharpening because for them it is more cost effective. That and the constant quality of the sharpen.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Like the old saying says ,if want it done right need to learn and do it yourself .
Great thread guys .
Great thread guys .
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Would you sell a, in the US a "yellow" chain in the case of Lo Pro a Stihl PS, to some one who seemed to know what they were on about, or do you restrict to sales of "green" Lo kick back? I only ask as the last time I was in the area's main Stihl dealer he lost a sale as he tried to sell a LK chain & wouldn't sell the PS chain the guy had picked out & It was obvious the guy was clued up & he had brought in a pro chain as a pattern, Curious as to if it was Stiihl's or dealer policy altough over here the chains have no paint code
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
I am not in the US but I highly doubt they would refuse someone for fear of repercussions ,Here in Canada I would sell the customer whatever chain they wanted. I can quiz them on it and inform them about its characteristics but in the end they can buy it if they like. I do wish at times a license, permit or training would be mandatory before a saw is sold. I get people that have no clue what they are doing buying a chainsaw. Oddly I have been selling more PPE int he last few months so I suppose people are getting smarter!
