slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
ok but let me ask you this.when it says 30 60 . 30 is for the top this i agree.what does the 60 stand for.
Side plate angle
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slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
time to go to work.later
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
60 Degree is the corner profile of the side cutter from the side view. The top part of the angle is the top of the cutter and the other leg of the angle is actually part of the arc of the vertical edge of the side of the tooth. This angle is controlled by the depth of the file in the tooth. The file should be either flat or some angle up to 10 degrees depending on what is the side to centre slope of the top plate. It certainly should not be 30 degrees. That figure is for the angle away from squarae to the bar which describes the top view of the top plate.
Crofter said:
Thanks Frank for helping out.
The gentleman interprets the drawing as somekind of file angle, instead of interpreting it as the angle measurement or the angle measured in degrees from the bumper to the top of the tooth on a properly sharpened tooth and chain.
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slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank You for your help.I see what your saying.The 60 is not a setting on the gauge it is made by the file.If you file lower in the cutter the pointer the cutter will look from the outside.So if it read 30 90 the cutter would look angled from the top and straight up and down from the side.The lower the second number the pointer it looks from the side.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
Slacker, You got it!
slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks for the help crofter and lobo could not have made the connection with out you.And with that knowledge what i sharpened my chain at before was 30 on the top plate 10 deg on the file guide angle.is 10 to much for this chain or do i need to resharpen at 0
Slacker if you stop by your local Stihl dealer and pick up a 3/16 fille guide for your .325 RS chain, part # 5605 750 4328 I believe and file with that you will see that your 3/16 file is suspended by the guide plate itself approx. 15% to 20% higher or over the top of the tooth itself, there is a set of lines angled at 30 degrees scribed on the face of the guide plate to help guide you and eyeball the correct 30 angle while filing. Lastly as the tutorials depict in hardwoods and in most conditions your file & file guide lay flat on top of the chain or at 0 degrees. this will give you all your proper angles. The exact same scenario or set up applies when using your bar mounted file guide and you need to reproduce that exact same set up.
I am not sure how many sharpening strokes you gave the chain initially while using your bar mount system, but i suspect that if you attempt to use it that way it will dig in way too much in to the wood possibly bogging it down and even jamming it, this could be dangerous. I suggest you refile with the corrected angles perhaps 4 or 5 strokes per tooth (more may be needed also) to attempt to reset the correct angles before you use your saw. Then you can carefully and cautiously see see how it acts in the wood. Slowly you will bring the chain back to spec's.
Use a vise or jig to firmly secure and lock the bar in place it will make the filing task far easier.
Good luck,
I am not sure how many sharpening strokes you gave the chain initially while using your bar mount system, but i suspect that if you attempt to use it that way it will dig in way too much in to the wood possibly bogging it down and even jamming it, this could be dangerous. I suggest you refile with the corrected angles perhaps 4 or 5 strokes per tooth (more may be needed also) to attempt to reset the correct angles before you use your saw. Then you can carefully and cautiously see see how it acts in the wood. Slowly you will bring the chain back to spec's.
Use a vise or jig to firmly secure and lock the bar in place it will make the filing task far easier.
Good luck,
slacker said:
Slacker normally you should be horizontally at a perfect 90 degree angle to the bar, which means you are flat or at 0 degree angle. This normally applies across the board except in the winter when pulp wood is frozen hard, at that time you could go up to a maximum of 10 degree angle in order to help penetrate in the frozen pulp wood.
Stihl RS chain is some of the best chain available out there and is already considered agressive in cutting design, no use over doing it as it will only bring damage to your saw and could cause personal injury.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
A good rule of thumb is to tilt the file to the same angle as the top plate is tilted. Some are virtually flat others tilted about 10 degrees. A lot of people leave it at 0 then do not have to readjust when they switch sides.
Crofter said:
I agree with you Frank, on some Oregon chains as an example they do have a 10 degree horizontal angle instead of 0 degrees or totally flat horizontal position.
The factory angles for slacker's 26 RS are 30 degree cutter angle with a 0 degree horizontal angle and .025 raker set.
60 degree angle of course for side plate when measured from bumper to cutter tooth tip.
The Stihl RS chain at .325 has the cutters just about as wide as on their 3/8'' chain and it is as agressive in the cut, so filing at 10 degrees with a smaller hp saws could simply be damaging to the saw IMO unless he is using something of 4.5 hp or more.
slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
Have not had a chance to resharpen slept all day cause i work all night.I will resharpen tonight and maybe get to cut a little sunday or monday.The saw is a ms290
slacker
ArboristSite Lurker
I had a chance to run the saw today.first time i sawed the cutters had a little beak on the the saw cut really fast the i hit a knot and it dulled instantly.refilled a little less side plate angle cut slower but never went dull
Yes not surprising, at the original angle you were filing at, the point or beak was extremely pointy, very sharp but very thin and therefore soft, as soon as it comes up against something slightly hard and abrasive it breaks down immediately loosing it cutting edge, its power to dig in to the wood, start lifting the wood to form a chip and cutting it off.
I used to use a filing jig like the one you have shown. I mounted the jig higher up on the bar so that the clamp held the tooth on the rivets. I found that the tooth stayed in position better this way. I don't know if you notice the tooth moving much when you're filing, but if so, you may want to try mounting it higher.
