Skil 1690 restoration

[cbfarmall]

Most of you know what I started with:

Nasty paint and great compression. When I pulled the muffler and saw all the rust and scale I made up my mind to remove the head and cylinder to inspect the case and make sure it was clean. It wasn't, at all. Not much corrosion but alot of slime and build-up. I wasted no time and pulled it down to the crank. Here's what it looks like inside.

That white stuff on the crank just flakes off. Don't know what it is.

The piston looks great but the top ring is stuck. Got it soaking right now to get it loose. Here's a couple of the cylinder. Any discoloration you see is just that. I can't feel any roughness in the bore. Actually, I see a whole lot of cross hatching from the original factory finish. Bear in mind this thing is piston ported but the carb mounts to the crankcase.

Intake:

Exhaust:

Engine bearings are standard 6203 and I was able to match the seals to a CR number. I'm going to try something for the rod big-end needles--since I can't get loose needles, I ordered a bearing that should have the right diameter rollers. I'll cut that bearing apart and try to use the rollers in this rod.

I've already ordered all the bearings I'll need and even picked up the paint for this thing. It needs to get to a sandblast cabinet badly.

Chris B.

 

[67L36Driver]

Engine bearings are standard 6203 and I was able to match the seals to a CR number. I'm going to try something for the rod big-end needles--since I can't get loose needles, I ordered a bearing that should have the right diameter rollers. I'll cut that bearing apart and try to use the rollers in this rod.

Good thinking. If you can find it, there are detailed specs. on bearings. i.e. # of balls & dia. or # of rollers w/dia. x length.

Good luck. That thing looks nasty inside. From what?

Crank looks rather grim on the clutch end. Drum bearing eat into it?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Chris, that thing looks alot better then that Poulan 4000 did and it runs again!

Actually this is a good example of why I cringe when I hear someone say that they find a very old saw and just gas em up and try to see if they run.

I wont do that till like you, they get a good partial teardown and look over.

It can do alot of damage if you don't.

I just might know a guy with a sandblast cabinet. LOL

 

[parrisw]

Cool saw. Going to be a interesting build.

 

[cbfarmall]

Crank looks rather grim on the clutch end. Drum bearing eat into it?

Crank is fine. It is flat-sided for the clutch and there is a tiny bit of corrosion where the bearing rides. I can scotch brite that off.

Actually this is a good example of why I cringe when I hear someone say that they find a very old saw and just gas em up and try to see if they run.

I did crank on this saw a bit but did a quick 180 when I pulled the muffler and saw all the garbage. So lucky it refused to fire.

Spent a little time with a bucket of gasoline and got nearly all the red paint off and some of the original white.

Chris B.

 

[cbfarmall]

Thank goodness for lousy paint jobs. A few minutes in a bucket of gasoline and the red paint just melted off. Not much of the original white left underneath. That just makes the next step all the easier.

I've identified some Hastings replacement rings for this 68.3mm / 2 11/16" bore!

Chris B.

 

[leeha]

YeSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS, Nice project.
Please let me know what you end up with
for the lower rod bearing.
If by chance you have any decals made could
you have 2 sets made for me. I can supply
pic's and dimentions of my air filter cover decal.
Chris, I guarantee this saw will your top favorite.
Lots of torque and fun to run.



Lee

 

[034avsuper]

Neat saw. Going to be interesting for sure. I'll be following this one!

 

[sachsmo]

WOW,

just crunched some numbers, if that jug was on a 42mm stroke, it would be 153.88cc If on a 48 mm stroke. 175.86cc!

 

[67L36Driver]

WOW,

just crunched some numbers, if that jug was on a 42mm stroke, it would be 153.88cc If on a 48 mm stroke. 175.86cc!

2 11/16" x 1 1/2" = 139cc Model Profile: 1690

 

[sachsmo]

38 mm stroke.

 

[cbfarmall]

YeSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS, Nice project.
Please let me know what you end up with
for the lower rod bearing.

The way this saw is built, is how all saws should be built--just like Homelites. Macs are OK, they just need cylinders separate from the crankcase.

Found out that I crossed to the wrong seal. Glad I figured it out before wasting time waiting for it.

Chris B.

 

[67L36Driver]

The way this saw is built, is how all saws should be built--just like Homelites. Macs are OK, they just need cylinders separate from the crankcase.

Found out that I crossed to the wrong seal. Glad I figured it out before wasting time waiting for it.

Chris B.

Post the shaft dia., housing bore and width of the original and I'll look it up in my C.R. book.
Carl.

 

[cbfarmall]

Post the shaft dia., housing bore and width of the original and I'll look it up in my C.R. book.
Carl.

I found the right one--CR 6541. Goofed, and originally picked one without a garter spring.

Chris B.

 

[67L36Driver]

I found the right one--CR 6541. Goofed, and originally picked one without a garter spring.

Chris B.

.656" shaft x 1.250" bore x .250" wide. Type & style CRW1 (single lip, spring loaded).

Two others listed for that size, 6540 and 6545, but it didn't give the style for them.

 

[cbfarmall]

I got a little bit done this morning. Found a Torrington needle bearing with rollers the same diameter (.125") as the Skil rod bearings.

Cut the cage apart to pull out the 13 individual rollers (the 1690 needs 12) and used a Dremel to cut the rollers to the right length. The result is a reciprocating assembly that has less slack than I started with and still spins freely.

I didn't do a lot of digging so maybe there is a bearing out there that has rollers the proper length, but the bearing I used is Torrington WJ-121616.

Yes, I need to finish cleaning milky white garbage off the crank.

Chris B.

 

[leeha]

Sweet, Thats being creative.
I like it.

 

[67L36Driver]

I bet it took more than a few minutes to chew thru them with a dremmel cut off disc.:msp_tongue:

Rollers and balls in bearings are usually in the low 60's Rockwell 'C' scale.

From what I have observed, the bearing surfaces on saw crankshafts have been induction hardened. I.E. selected areas and not the whole thing.

 

[jus2fat]

I'm totally willing to be demonstrated a "blue ribbon" dumbass...
But...I just gotta ask...what is "the draw" of repairing this saw ??

Never heard of it!!....something special about it??

From the first pics...I wouldn't even have considered it!!
Sooo...I'm ready...lay "the hurt" on me...!!!

Wonderful...and meticulous job well done!!!!

J2F

 

[cbfarmall]

I'm totally willing to be demonstrated a "blue ribbon" dumbass...
But...I just gotta ask...what is "the draw" of repairing this saw ??

Never heard of it!!....something special about it??

From the first pics...I wouldn't even have considered it!!
Sooo...I'm ready...lay "the hurt" on me...!!!

Wonderful...and meticulous job well done!!!!

J2F

Where to begin? It's a Canadien. It's 139cc, which makes it the largest saw I own, and one of the largest one-man saws out there. And, as you pointed out, it's starting condition makes it quite the challenge to rebuild. Fortunately, I have managed to gather all the parts needed. Canadien/Skil stuff is nonexistent so I had to get clever.

Should have a working saw, or nearly so, by the end of the week.

Chris B.