Sleeves in old or obsolete saws

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bobbyb13

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Probably get my head took off for ignorance here. Why can't I sleeve an engine that the bore is ruined in with a cast iron sleeve? I have the machinery to do it. Looks like a old saw you can't get a jug for, you could sleeve. I'm throwing the labor factor out the window here, because I'd be doing it for myself and just for the heck of it. Ok you can rip me now.
 
you can actually, when i contacted several companies a few years back about putting a sleeve in a Mcculloch SP125 block i was quoted $500 min. if you can do it yourself it may be worth it. you can also have the cylinder re-plated for around $150 at places like www.uschrome.com
they can do simple plating or damage repair/build up. price is on a sliding scale depending on those factors.
 
Maybe

In some of those old saws you can, but before you spend too much time I would measure the thickness of the cylinder wall. A lot of the chromed cylinders from the mid 70's and up do not have a thick enough cylinder wall to support a sleeve. Hope you can re-sleeve it and get it running again.
 
Go for it.

I've got the jug off the old SL14 here, I've got the sleeve stock, I'm going to give it a try. Im going to put the old jug on a CMM and get my dimensions and I'll take pictures and post the results. If some of the guys on here have something special to them I don't see any reason i can't fix some for people. Let me see how this SL14 turns out.
 
It is done more than you may think

The tricky part is securing the liner in place so it does not move under thermal cycling. A non removable head makes this more of a challenge and also it is required to have at least a general porting window precut for the transfer ports which makes installing the liner a fast one shot deal.

I am sure you will find a few people who can relate to pressing a frozen liner into a heated snowmobile cylinder and not moving fast enough......truly ugly

If you are up to the challenge I can offer some tips

The final consideration is final thickness of the cast iron liner after final honing as too thick a liner will hinder the expansion of the liner and lead to heat sticking when the piston expands faster than the bore.
 
Scooterbum said:
Hey Bobby
You can go to http://www.caswellplating.com and get a kit pretty reasonable to Hard Chrome plate your cylinder.


I'm not sure this will be practicable for a cylinder.. Look at the current (amperage) requirements for the area of the cylinder.. and the issues with masking of non-plated areas, and then diamond honing... better to get it done professionally... There was a big discussion about this with (or around) coveredinsap... most was BS, but some rang true - do a search...
 
Last edited:
PEST said:
The tricky part is securing the liner in place so it does not move under thermal cycling.




A good way to eliminate some of the worry here is to machine the cylinder to accept, and the sleeve to have a land ring.




This sleeve would look like this _l....l_ (exagerated)


This ring of land fits into a recess cut into the cylinder and is 3-5thou taller than the pocket so when you bolt up the jug its crushed between the cyl and block.



It still needs to be a press/interferance fit though, otherwise no heat transfer.
 
Good sense but

RaisedByWolves said:
A good way to eliminate some of the worry here is to machine the cylinder to accept, and the sleeve to have a land ring.




This sleeve would look like this _l....l_ (exagerated)


This ring of land fits into a recess cut into the cylinder and is 3-5thou taller than the pocket so when you bolt up the jug its crushed between the cyl and block.



It still needs to be a press/interferance fit though, otherwise no heat transfer.


Some cylinders/cases don't really allow this due to the thin cylinder walls not leaving enough meat left by the time you machine it out far enough for the sleeve to rest on the case.
 

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