Slow to split 26 ton splitter

[Orange Hill]

I am using my uncles 6.5 hp 26 ton MTD splitter model #24BF560D062 that is 3 years old. The problem is that it takes 5 seconds to switch to the second stage once it comes against the wood which is dry twisted up eucalyptus that is hard to split. I asked him if it has always done this and he said yes, but once it gets hot after about 50 logs it shifts faster. I tend to alternate between cutting and splitting so I have not yet reached this state of splitting bliss. Is there a way to adjust the pump to switch faster? I am going to change the hydraulic oil and filter as they have been in there since he bought it.

It comes with Dex III ATF oil, do you think the viscosity/additive packages in the ATF are fighting against me? Do you think real straight hydraulic fluid would work better?

 

[leon]

log splitter revisited

I am using my uncles 6.5 hp 26 ton MTD splitter model #24BF560D062 that is 3 years old. The problem is that it takes 5 seconds to switch to the second stage once it comes against the wood which is dry twisted up eucalyptus that is hard to split. I asked him if it has always done this and he said yes, but once it gets hot after about 50 logs it shifts faster. I tend to alternate between cutting and splitting so I have not yet reached this state of splitting bliss. Is there a way to adjust the pump to switch faster? I am going to change the hydraulic oil and filter as they have been in there since he bought it.

It comes with Dex III ATF oil, do you think the viscosity/additive packages in the ATF are fighting against me? Do you think real straight hydraulic fluid would work better?

In a word NO; you are dealing with plain simple physics and the laws of fluids and temperature thermodynamics- messing with the pressures is not a good idea period and the pump will have to work even harder.

If you really want to speed things up, use a small salamander to heat up the log splitter. I have used one for 14 years to keep warm while working if I am splitting during the winter and two to heat up the log splitter prior to using it.
Believe me it works faster than a magnet heater etc., as the entire surface area of the splitter is being warmed, and as the log splitter is a steel object with oil in it has huge thermal mass and that is why it takes so long to warm up.

The hydraulic hosing on the average log splitter does not help much, as the oil in the cylinder takes forever to warm up as it is held in place by the control valve and not allowed to return to the tank to be heated up; If the average log splitter had a race track configuration (four check valves to direct flow in and out of the cylinder ports and back to the tank through the spool controlling the cylinder) of hosing where the oil in the cylinder was directed back to tank continuously and warm oil was returned to the cylinder they would work much more efficiently due to heating of the oil used.

The heat built up by the cylinder during extension and retraction of the rod eventually warms up the oil in the rod end and barrel end of the cylinder, and it becomes thinner from the friction generated to move more quickly and become more efficient to deliver fluid energy to the cylinder

The use of even a very small salamander for twenty minutes or so solves that problem by heating everything up at once.

Of coures if you have a very warm insulated garage it will take a bit longer but the same thing is accomplished.

leon


:chainsawguy: :yoyo:

 

[brisawyer]

Any place to add a gauge so you can see what the pressures are really doing? Change the filter. 5 sec is too long as soon as mine hits 900 it kicks to second stage dosent matter what temp the splitter is.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Any place to add a gauge so you can see what the pressures are really doing? Change the filter. 5 sec is too long as soon as mine hits 900 it kicks to second stage dosent matter what temp the splitter is.

Agree strongly on the gauge part, also put a contact thermometer on the lower part of the tank ....Install the gauge between the pump and the control valve....for every 150psi you read on that gauge, running your pump at 16gpm, there is 1.0 kW heating power in the open loop from pump to tank. 8gpm will give you 0.5kW. By giving your valve lever a very short retract stroke, that you can set the power you want for heating up the system. 600psi will give you 4kW. For 20+ years, I've run a fleet of logging equipment down to minus 20F and never needed more than half hour warm up before getting into action. A simple log splitter.....I'll just start producing after firing up.
I would never put anything else than a 32hydraulic fluid into my system, 46 if I never have below32-40F. ATF could contaminate your system, seals or whatever, with some of it's additives. I have never seen a component manufacturer recommend anything else than hydraulic fluid.

 

[Orange Hill]

Thanks for the great info, I will put it to use. I am guessing that they use ATF fluid because it is a home owner splitter and they figure most people don't have access to hydraulic fluid. I talked with my uncle again last night and he told me that when it was new it did switch faster when cold. I am going to tune up the engine, change the fluid and filter and refill it with hydraulic fluid. The label on the tank says 'use only Dex III ATF or 10 wt AW'. I am also going to install a gauge so I can see what is really happening. It is not too cold where I live, might get a bit of frost in winter, so I may buy a magnetic heater or something similar since it is not my splitter.

I miss the splitter I used in high school when I used to sell firewood for pocket money. It was a 4 cylinder 2.3 liter Ford engine driving a single speed hydraulic pump with a 40 ton ram. A rare twisted dry log would stall it and kill the engine, but man was it fast. I am planning to build a splitter of my own over the winter.

Thanks again, I will let you know if it improves.
:yourock:

 

[leon]

log splitter

Thanks for the great info, I will put it to use. I am guessing that they use ATF fluid because it is a home owner splitter and they figure most people don't have access to hydraulic fluid. I talked with my uncle again last night and he told me that when it was new it did switch faster when cold. I am going to tune up the engine, change the fluid and filter and refill it with hydraulic fluid. The label on the tank says 'use only Dex III ATF or 10 wt AW'. I am also going to install a gauge so I can see what is really happening. It is not too cold where I live, might get a bit of frost in winter, so I may buy a magnetic heater or something similar since it is not my splitter.

I miss the splitter I used in high school when I used to sell firewood for pocket money. It was a 4 cylinder 2.3 liter Ford engine driving a single speed hydraulic pump with a 40 ton ram. A rare twisted dry log would stall it and kill the engine, but man was it fast. I am planning to build a splitter of my own over the winter.

Thanks again, I will let you know if it improves.
:yourock:

The pump is only doing what it is supposed to be doing by diverting flow, increasing pressure and decreasing flow to the cylinder to overcome the resistance generated by the log being split by the cylinder.


If you are going to change the oil-change all the oil-remove the cylinder, drain both the barrel end and the rod end, and all the oil in all the hoses and valve body and pump must be drained or you will have a lot of problems and if you do it you may end up with even more problems as the seals in the valve spool, o-rings and
pump seals may not tolerate the oil change due to the different types of oil as they may allow more leakage to occur to the oil change.

Gauge installation: be sure to tee the guage into the barrel side of the cylinder in the female threaded port of the cylinder barrel; use hydraulic fittings for the T the male to male pipe adapters

To keep parts buying it simple: buy hydraulic fittings only as they are the only ones rated for the pressure generated.

Purchase one hydraulic T fitting with three female ends the size of the fitting in the barrel end.

Purchase one pipe to pipe, male to male hydraulic adapter to thread into the cylinder barrel
purchase one pipe male to JIC male adapter for the fitting on the T to connect the hydraulic hose that woulkd connect tot e barrel end of the cylinder.

The third part of the T is where the guage is installed.

Do not use teflon tape to seal the fittings as they can and will break the fittings when installed buy a small tube of liquid pipe dope as you will only require a small amount.

After installling the gauge and running it for a while it will tell you what shape your system is in.


Even if you buy a very small salamander they are not that expensive and the heating time is minimal.

Since log splitter builders do not install a racetrack set up of check valves in both ports of the cylinders they all have this problem including my Tmberwolf TW5 if it is cold-that is why I heat it up.

The atf used in log splitters is a very good oil as it is refined to withstand hours of use in an automobile or truck and remember the power steeing pump in a car or truck is much smaller than a pump for a log splitter so take that in to consideration before you do anything as the operating time for a power steeing pump is much greater in actual use. Any hydraulic oil refined today is ment to operate at a base temperature with with a high volume of fluid at all times and operate at a maximum temperature below 180 degrees.

The ATF is a more durable oil at all temepratures and that is why they use it.


If you are going to this much trouble you might as well buy and install 2-two way check valves on the cylinder to allow all the oil to move in and out of the cylinder barrel and solve the warm up problem to begin with as it will probably cost you less than the new oil and labor involved with changing it and they can have a pressure guage installed in one or both of them as well.

leon